N003k
Member
I just got a new AR that had KAC rails on it, the bottom segment has a heatguard, but the top doesn't. Is this normal for them? Or did someone mess them up?
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KAC rail question...
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Strykervet
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The military handguards, the KAC rails, have no heatshields in the upper part, just the lower part. It is fine. They go for around $300 something new, they aren't cheap junk like some of the stuff out there, that is for sure.
That is a very fine rail system, I have a couple and also have a couple of the FF ones. KAC is my favorite when it comes to this kind of stuff. Very solid. Got sold on them in the army, never looked back. That top rail will fit tight enough to mount an IR laser on and engage targets accurately to 300m. And it isn't even FF! Yeah, I was sold after that. I wouldn't mount optics on there, but there was no place else to put the IR laser and I needed it at the time.
When you take apart the rifle to clean it though, don't remove the top. Install that the right way and leave it (or if it is already, leave it alone) the top should be very solid, the bottom can have a little play, but they usually fit tight.
Only time you should take off the top part is if you have to remove the barrel or tighten the barrel nut.
The rail panels are real nice and snap on. Instead of paying high prices for them, look around on Ebay, Craigslist, or surplus stores near infantry bases in particular. Lots of good deals on surplus and what not.
The government also owns the patent on this part now, so not only KAC makes it, but also P&W. You can't tell them apart though, I have one that is half KAC and half P&W, I don't need it but can't sell it because folks think it is fishy. But there is no difference, so if you find P&W on there instead of KAC, forget about it, same parts, same materials, no difference at all.
That is a very fine rail system, I have a couple and also have a couple of the FF ones. KAC is my favorite when it comes to this kind of stuff. Very solid. Got sold on them in the army, never looked back. That top rail will fit tight enough to mount an IR laser on and engage targets accurately to 300m. And it isn't even FF! Yeah, I was sold after that. I wouldn't mount optics on there, but there was no place else to put the IR laser and I needed it at the time.
When you take apart the rifle to clean it though, don't remove the top. Install that the right way and leave it (or if it is already, leave it alone) the top should be very solid, the bottom can have a little play, but they usually fit tight.
Only time you should take off the top part is if you have to remove the barrel or tighten the barrel nut.
The rail panels are real nice and snap on. Instead of paying high prices for them, look around on Ebay, Craigslist, or surplus stores near infantry bases in particular. Lots of good deals on surplus and what not.
The government also owns the patent on this part now, so not only KAC makes it, but also P&W. You can't tell them apart though, I have one that is half KAC and half P&W, I don't need it but can't sell it because folks think it is fishy. But there is no difference, so if you find P&W on there instead of KAC, forget about it, same parts, same materials, no difference at all.
N003k
Member
Alright, thanks, wasn't sure, and on KACs site they didn't seem to have any close enough pics to tell.
I had actually ALREADY taken them off, since there was no make marking on the outside, was a bit of a pain to get back on, but, I've no intent on removing them again haha.
It also did come with two full length covers from KAC also, and thought that they were a lot nicer than other's I've seen. I'll definitely be using them. Was thinking about getting the MOE guards til I got these home. Definitely no play in the top guard, and very VERY little in the bottom...
I had actually ALREADY taken them off, since there was no make marking on the outside, was a bit of a pain to get back on, but, I've no intent on removing them again haha.
It also did come with two full length covers from KAC also, and thought that they were a lot nicer than other's I've seen. I'll definitely be using them. Was thinking about getting the MOE guards til I got these home. Definitely no play in the top guard, and very VERY little in the bottom...
Strykervet
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Told 'ya!
When you get it on, and it can be a pain to get it on there without banging it up, everything snaps on real nice and that cam will fit under the barrel nut. The screw tightens it. The front has that little metal tab that squares everything up up front.
When you get everything like you want it and installed right, then take that little screw and clean the threads real good. Clean the threads inside the hole on the handguard. Then put some blue loctite on there and you'll be good to go. They can work loose if you don't do that, then it won't be as rigid, but it will still work. Reason I say not to take it off too much is that those threads will strip over time if not careful. Seen a few guys do this.
Doubt you'll put a 203 or masterkey on there, but the reason they make them the way they do is that the top part will work on a rifle with a grenade launcher or shotgun under the barrel. All you have to do is pop the bottom rail off, stick the launcher on, lock down the front strap on the barrel, and it is ready to rock.
None of that Red Jacket lets put a 12ga. or grenade launcher on aluminum rails junk. They weren't made for that kind of stress.
When you get it on, and it can be a pain to get it on there without banging it up, everything snaps on real nice and that cam will fit under the barrel nut. The screw tightens it. The front has that little metal tab that squares everything up up front.
When you get everything like you want it and installed right, then take that little screw and clean the threads real good. Clean the threads inside the hole on the handguard. Then put some blue loctite on there and you'll be good to go. They can work loose if you don't do that, then it won't be as rigid, but it will still work. Reason I say not to take it off too much is that those threads will strip over time if not careful. Seen a few guys do this.
Doubt you'll put a 203 or masterkey on there, but the reason they make them the way they do is that the top part will work on a rifle with a grenade launcher or shotgun under the barrel. All you have to do is pop the bottom rail off, stick the launcher on, lock down the front strap on the barrel, and it is ready to rock.
None of that Red Jacket lets put a 12ga. or grenade launcher on aluminum rails junk. They weren't made for that kind of stress.
N003k
Member
Heh, if I could AFFORD a M203...or more importantly, if I could afford to FEED a M203 with the more enjoyable to use ammo, I would jump on it. Sadly, I can't, so the bottom rail will remain, maybe get an AFG to stick on it.
Getting Loctite for the screw sounds like a good idea, might go ahead and do that on sunday at some point.
Getting Loctite for the screw sounds like a good idea, might go ahead and do that on sunday at some point.
SentinelStrategic
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Since most people hold a rifle handguard on the bottom, it's advantageous to have a heatguard on the bottom rail to keep temps down for the comfort of the shooter's hand. A lot of the heat generated from ARs comes from the top, because you the hot gas going into the gas block and back through the gas tube. Plus, heat rises. By not using a heat guard, it allows better ventilation and cooling.
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