Keeping the AR-15 bolt oiled in storage.

[JesterRock]

I like to have my AR-15 (Smith & Wesson M&P) oiled and ready to go, but it is difficult to keep the bolt carrier group "wet looking" while stored in the gun safe. I didn't know the importance of a wet bolt so the first time I shot this rifle I had oiled it a couple months prior to shooting it, and I had problems with the bolt sticking back so I took a little oil off of another rifle and added it to the bottom rail of the AR-15 bolt which fixed the problem. I have now switched to Slip2000 EWL oil, and it seems to help, but the bottom rail still seems dry after a few weeks of sitting muzzle up in the safe. Is it possible to keep these bolts wet and ready to go while stored in the safe? Does anyone remove the bolt and keep it separate to prevent oil from running off of it? How much oil is needed on these bolts to keep the gun functioning? I'm leaning towards grabing the AK if I need a rifle in a hurry. Thanks for any help or advice.

 

[dprice3844444]

synthetic grease

 

[matrem]

I've pulled ARs out of the safe that hadn't been 'oiled' in months.
They work fine.
If you have time to squirt enough rounds through one to dry it the "rest of the way out", you've got time to squirt it again with lube before it fails.

 

[jmstevens2]

Use a PTFE oil or grease like slipstream and then shoot it to heat it and cause the PTFE to get into the pores. Once properly "cured" lube will be a non issue.
PTFE is Teflon basically.

Or find some LSA.

 

[rcmodel]

CLP & GI LSA was invented to keep M-16's running.

Although the new formula is different then the old?

The old stuff I use tends to stay put after the solvent evaporates out of it.

rc

 

[adobewalls]

I have had one AR for over 20 years and never had problems with a sticking bolt, even after sitting a couple of years between firings and oilings.

What I have seen, is a friend's AR-10 develop a stuck bolt; but from failing to clean it and letting it sit for a year in the closet.

My friend admitted he never cleaned his AR-10, and the fouling build up is what froze the bolt. It was no big deal, we flushed it with Ed's Red and it freed right up. He promised to start cleaning his rifle at least once a season thereafter.

 

[fatcat4620]

Are you guys talking about stuff like Militec?

 

[JesterRock]

thanks for the quick replies. The rifle was clean prior to me shooting it.

 

[TxBobS]

I've never had a wet looking AR bolt at all. A drop of oil on the gas rings, the tiniest bit of oil on the extractor and that's all the lube my bolts get. If there's no metal on metal contact, I don't think it needs oil. My carrier only gets grease on the rails.

 

[TxBobS]

I've never had a wet looking AR bolt at all. A drop of oil on the gas rings, the tiniest bit of oil on the extractor and that's all the lube my bolts get. If there's no metal on metal contact, I don't think it needs oil. My carrier only gets grease on the rails.

 

[jhnrckr]

your gun should be able to run almost dry and if it is giving you fits oil or lack of oil isnt the problem.

 

[wingman]

I prefer to run any auto wet, I use gun butter on bolt it remains there if stored for long periods and its ready to go anytime. IMO tools of any kind without oil/lube will wear or fail.

 

[billymarr]

Tetra makes a great paste lube and an oil that will stay and embed it self

 

[jmstevens2]

Of course in the cold strip it of all oil and use graphite.

 

[JustinJ]

I read that a small trial in theater found M4s and M16s to be more reliable with dry lube but was never able to find details of what specifically was used.

 

[benEzra]

I like to have my AR-15 (Smith & Wesson M&P) oiled and ready to go, but it is difficult to keep the bolt carrier group "wet looking" while stored in the gun safe. I didn't know the importance of a wet bolt so the first time I shot this rifle I had oiled it a couple months prior to shooting it, and I had problems with the bolt sticking back so I took a little oil off of another rifle and added it to the bottom rail of the AR-15 bolt which fixed the problem. I have now switched to Slip2000 EWL oil, and it seems to help, but the bottom rail still seems dry after a few weeks of sitting muzzle up in the safe. Is it possible to keep these bolts wet and ready to go while stored in the safe? Does anyone remove the bolt and keep it separate to prevent oil from running off of it? How much oil is needed on these bolts to keep the gun functioning? I'm leaning towards grabing the AK if I need a rifle in a hurry. Thanks for any help or advice.

I use Mobil 1 5W-30 (full synthetic). It is a very high grade lubricant, relatively inexpensive, and stays "wet" for months due to its very good film properties.

Having said that, an AR doesn't have to be wet to be very, very reliable. They do tend to be more reliable when very, very dirty when run wet than when run dry, but a clean or moderately dirty AR should run fine wet or dry if properly assembled.

Of course in the cold strip it of all oil and use graphite.

Never use graphite on an AR, or on any other gun with an aluminum receiver or aluminum parts. Graphite is fine on steel, but graphite + humidity is corrosive to aluminum.

 

[dprice3844444]

jm,graphite eats aluminum
http://www.finishing.com/82/53.shtml

 

[JustinJ]

Never use graphite on an AR, or on any other gun with an aluminum receiver or aluminum parts. Graphite is fine on steel, but graphite + humidity is corrosive to aluminum.

At a place i used to work they tried a graphite lube on steel hand tools such as dykes and linemans plyers. A few months later the tools had become so loose they were a pain to work with. It appeared the graphite was acting like a lapping compound so i avoid it all together in any guns.

 

[kfgk14]

Machine Gunner's lube or Slip 2000 is the way to go on lubricant. I use MG lube because of it's cold tolerance, but Slip 2000 will work if you're in a milder climate. Before you change the lubricant you're using (if you do), buy some Slip 725 cleaner/degreaser and remove all the old lube.

 

[desidog]

I use Mobil 1 5W-30 (full synthetic). It is a very high grade lubricant, relatively inexpensive, and stays "wet" for months due to its very good film properties.

Me too. I also use synthetic 5W30 in the generator...so when emergency / weather hits, it's one-stop shopping for power and safety!

 

[W.E.G.]

the first time I shot this rifle I had oiled it a couple months prior to shooting it, and I had problems with the bolt sticking back

This sounds more like a break-in issue than a lubrication issue.

 

[mljdeckard]

I echo exactly benezra and others have said. When you run ARs hard and hot, you need to keep them sloppy wet. As an army armorer, I have seen rifles that went to the qualification range completely dry and clean, and run the course with no problems at all. If your bolt is sticking to the rear, under the pressure of the buffer spring, something else is wrong.

 

[wingman]

I have seen rifles that went to the qualification range completely dry and clean, and run the course with no problems

Certainly I have seen that also however wear on parts during that course is difficult to measure. I will always maintain that a properly cleaned lubed firearm will last longer remain in better condition then one which is dirty and dry.

 

[mljdeckard]

But the bolt should not be sticking to the rear just because the lube dripped down either. Most of the problem with the terrible maintenence of army weapons is the fault of the army.

 

[gaweidert]

I use either EEZOX or Slip 2000 EWL. EEZOX has worked great on both my AR and on my several milsurps. After cleaning my milsurps I always spray a bit down the bore. It keeps the rust away.