kimber K6 questions.

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megatronrules

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I have a K6 with the rubber grips. I pulled the grips while cleaning it and there was a good amount of rust under them.

I just pulled them two weeks ago and found the same and cleaned under them that time as well. I plan on ordering some Altamont wood grips for it this week. I put a coating of remoil under there last time and it didn't seem to help much.

I live in Florida and I'm thinking the combination of the rubber grips and humidity here is what's causing this.

So my questions are would wood grips help with this at all? And what is a good rust preventative to use on the grip frame and the gun itself? Thanks for any help with this.
 
I am in FL for 30 yrs myself and never had a problem with sikilar guns. perhaps kimber didn't get the steel right or the coating, "if there is one". But that should not happen. I have nickel and stainless guns for many years with no problem and no special precautions, other than throwing some Dessicant packs in my safe several years ago. I hate to hear things llike that on guns that command top dollar.
 
Isn't the Kimber stainless? Stainless isn't rust proof, but it should be rust resistant. I wonder if you got a bad one and should see if you can make a warranty claim (just thinking out loud)...Maybe a thicker oil would help, try a gun grease instead of oil...Maybe the rubber grips are the problem since it doesn't breathe and might trap moisture and wood may help since the moisture would better be able to dry and evaporate...

If it was me, I'd contact Kimber and see if they have any suggestions or can/will do anything for you, I'd make a point of checking under the grips every few days at first and go out to every few weeks (or less when you start to find rust) to clean, dry and oil/grease the grip frame to prevent rust, and try different grips.
 
There are couple of scenarios possible:
1. As already suggested, Kimber screwed up the steel treating at one point or another.
2. You did not remove all the rust the first time, therefore it was a lot easier for corrosion to start again.
3. You have acidic sweat. This is a viable option - a friend of mine has such acidic sweat, that he was able to rust pretty good an AUS8A Cold Steel blade just from carrying it in his pocket. For a day.
4. You used abrasives to remove the rust and started immediately carrying the revolver again in "sweaty" conditions. This is maybe the most interesting of the four - you see, stainless steel is not rust resistant by itself. What protects it from rust is the formation of an oxide layer on the surface, chromium oxide to be precise, which actually prevents the ferric oxide (rust) from forming. Grind off the protective oxide layer, expose immediately in corrosive environment and there you have it - rust.
 
I lived in Hawaii for many years and every revolver that I had there developed corrosion under the rubber grips. I have S&W, Ruger and Colt revolvers, all of them stainless steel. Google crevice corrosion. Regularly removing the grips and applying oil is the best way to prevent crevice corrosion. Surface finish also affects corrosion. A highly polished surface is more corrosion resistant than a rough surface.
 
Okay I'm only asking because nobody else has asked...you're sure it's not that orange-ish brown packing grease instead of rust? I was cleaning off an old surplus pistol that had this stuff on it a couple of weeks ago, and it was a little disconcerting until I figured out what it was. They don't usually put that stuff on guns that aren't imported on cargo ships, but who knows.

I'm just trying to figure out why a high end stainless gun that was released only a year ago already has rust on it.
 
Maybe try a coat of wax on it. Something like Turtle wax, not one of the new finishes that they make. Make sure it is real carnuba wax
 
If you're going to use wax, make sure it has no abrasives in it and that it is PH neutral. I called call Meguiar's and they confirmed that Gold Class Carnauba Plus Paste Wax has a neutral PH and no abrasives, and the customer rep told me that they get a lot of calls from gun owners.

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Renaissance Wax is good for protecting guns from rust. Blued or stainless. They use it in most museums. A little more expensive than most automobile waxes, but a small can should last you forever.
 
I have military grade weaponized sweat. And live in Texas. When I take a holster out of my waistband in the summer, it looks like it's been in a pool.

All my stainless guns (that I carry) have rust under the grips. Well, they usually have pitting...I try and clean the rust off pretty regularly)
S&W 65
Ruger SP101
Kahr K9
Etc.

Rubber grips will trap more moisture.

Clean and scrub with a bronze brush. Do not use steel wool.

Coat the grip frame with something really tenacious. Boeshield is good. So is CorrosionX.

Every few weeks, remove grips, clean off rust.

It is what it is.
 
Try EEZOX. I pocket carry Colt Cobras or an Agent all the time. The hammers are in the white and so far no rust or discoloration using EEZOX. Prior to using this product I was polishing rust off on a regular basis. I've had rust form on stainless 1911's on the matte finished areas like the dust cover and grip front strap. Pretty tough to remove without scaring the finish.
 
I have military grade weaponized sweat. And live in Texas. When I take a holster out of my waistband in the summer, it looks like it's been in a pool.

All my stainless guns (that I carry) have rust under the grips. Well, they usually have pitting...I try and clean the rust off pretty regularly)
S&W 65
Ruger SP101
Kahr K9
Etc.

Rubber grips will trap more moisture.

Clean and scrub with a bronze brush. Do not use steel wool.

Coat the grip frame with something really tenacious. Boeshield is good. So is CorrosionX.

Every few weeks, remove grips, clean off rust.

It is what it is.
Being aviation products, those can be hard to find but I've seen CorrosionX at Academy Sports in the fishing department.
 
Hey all I picked some Johnsons paste wax while at Lowe's this morning. I cleaned the whole gun including the grip frame. Then applied a coat let it dry and buffed it off.

I did two coats so I'll see how it goes. I'm going to order some Altamont wood grips this week. Hopefully they should help mitigate the rust under the grip frame. I know rubber is bad for trapping moisture and south florida's humidity is tough on guns.

I had the same issue on a smith 640 .357 when I lived in Boston during the summers. I wish I'd have known about the wax thing then. I drove myself nuts trying to keep the grip frame from rusting. Every few days after carrying it for 12 hour days,I'd pull off the rubber boot grips and sure enough rust.

I always kept a coat of oil on the grip frame too. When I went to wood boot grips I could pull them every few months. The wood can "breathe" I guess where the rubber doesn't.
 
Don't get discouraged if the Johnson's doesn't give the results you are looking for. You really should get some Renaissance Wax which seems to be what most people are using. I do think Wood grips will help but the wax is key.
 
and south florida's humidity is tough on guns.
It's interesting. In humid environments I transform like the Incredible Hulk. However, rather than turning into an unstoppable green monster, I transform into a whining, irritating, 4 year old child.

I like my dry places. So I guess my guns are safe. I do wonder though, could you have that gun Melonited?
 
Well this thread is a bit old but it seems like a lot of you are going too waaay to much work.

I remove the grips and apply a heavy coat of RIG Gun grease everywhere on frame that is covered except on the mainspring. The heavy grease does not run off or evaporate and blocks any moisture from getting to the metal under the grips.
 
I've been using nothing but Frog Lube on all my guns for the past 2-3 years and have not had any rust problems.
After shooting I run a bore snake through the barrel following by patches with Frog Lube. It removes all the gunk with no problem and leaves a protective finish. Highly recommend it!

Bob
 
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