Kimber - Mainspring Housing Replacement - Difficult?

[NJGunOwner81]

Okay for some time now I've known that the MainSpring Housings on the Kimbers are plastic ... why Kimber just didn't make them metal to begin with is beyond me. ANYWAY, I was thinking about replacing the plastic one in favor of a new metal one.

My question is ... what is the difficulty level in replacing the MainSpring Housing? Anyone done it before? Any input, tips, problems, or pitfalls you can fill me in on would be most appreciated!

THANK-YOU!!!

Frank
NJGunOwner81

 

[rcmodel]

SO easy a caveman could do it.

Not necessary to even strip the gun.
Put a big rubber-band around the grip safety first to hold it & the sear spring down.

Then scroll down about 1/3 way on this page and follow the directions.
http://www.m1911.org/stripin1.htm

rc

 

[REAPER4206969]

A drunk retarded monkey could do it. I put a Kimber magwell on my SW1911 and it slide right in.

 

[Oro]

As a reformed plastic MSH hater, let me add a few words:

1) Cosmetically, the edges of the MSH are some of the highest-wear areas on the gun if it is handled much at all. A blue or other non-stainless finish will show wear there faster than anywhere else.

2) Functionally, the synthetic MSH's have the virtue of slightly reducing felt recoil. The material, unlike steel, can deform slightly under pressure and dampen the recoil energy.

The first one I acquired was a serrated one on a recent production blued Colt. It looked and matched fine, and before I got around to replacing it I figured out these virtues, and also after a few months it stopped "bugging" me and I left it in place and am quite happy with it.

OTOH, some of the cheaper plastic checkered ones on some Kimbers are just awful to look at and don't match as well, and those might bug me more. If I DID replace it, I would want to make sure I bought a forged and milled one - I do find them much better looking and satisfying to handle than the cheaper MIM and cast parts most commonly available.

 

[berkbw]

It is pretty easy, but a caveman needs more parts. DO NOT just push the pin holding the cap pin in! There is a spring trying to push the cap into your face.

Chuck up a screw or pin in a vice, so it sticks out horizontaly a 1/2" or so. with one hand pushing the spring cup against the vise held thing with the tiny roll pin straight up, slide a 1/16" punch in the roll pin hole and push the pin out (it it doesn't fall out). Remove the punch and let off on the push. Assembly is the reverse, except you will probably not need the punch.

b-