TomADC
Member
I going to clean up a old knife it had the leather rings but whats the thoughts on using hard wood rings for a replacement? Any thoughts on should they be glued together? What finish to use.
Knife handle material?
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I've not seen that so I have to assume there are issues with it. OTOH, if you use stabilized wood and you stack them under pressure with epoxy I don't see why that shouldn't work. I've seen wood spacers before used for contrast so you should be able to make it work (if they're stabilized).
The Scandinavians use cork and birch bark to do what you're thinking of doing.
http://makingcustomknives.com/making-a-stacked-composite-handle/
The Scandinavians use cork and birch bark to do what you're thinking of doing.
http://makingcustomknives.com/making-a-stacked-composite-handle/
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Yes, you can.
Here is one I made using walnut & ebony.
The problem you will have with wood rings is, wood is not compressible.
The leather is, and can be clamped to compress the stack while getting the butt cap pinned back on.
That keeps it tight nearly forever.
If you use wood, or leather, glue each ring with slow-set epoxy.
rc
Here is one I made using walnut & ebony.
The problem you will have with wood rings is, wood is not compressible.
The leather is, and can be clamped to compress the stack while getting the butt cap pinned back on.
That keeps it tight nearly forever.
If you use wood, or leather, glue each ring with slow-set epoxy.
rc
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TomADC
Member
I have several pieces of walnut, maple and a couple of others 1/4 x 4 x 36 I bought from Rocklers all are hardwoods and I have a large assortment of hole saws for the blanks. Give me something to do and keep me out of trouble.
jerkface11
Member
I would do it like the one rc posted. Except with maple in the middle.
Give it a whirl. You might be able to do something that hasn't been done yet.
jerkface11
Member
Make sure you post pics when it's done!
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TomADC
Member
I'm going to play around with one of the knives that was in the safe, I was able to remove the original handle with my fingers no tools required. But want to clean it up to maybe make a useful knife. I've let most of these go and kept the worst ones to tweak a bit.
Piraticalbob
Member
Do a Google Image Search on *Dalton Holder My Knife* to see what the absolute master of that knife handle style is capable of. He was fond of using oosic, also known as fossilized walrus penis bone. 
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TomADC
Member
I'm doing the second from the right.
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TomADC
Member
Best laid plans etc etc found a reasonable place to buy stamped leather washers so I'm going that route.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Good!
I cut my washers myself.
Lot cheaper that way.
Did you figure out how to get the steel butt cap off without ruining it?
Here is a good primer on it.
http://www.allaboutpocketknives.com/knife_forum/viewtopic.php?t=32026
rc
I cut my washers myself.
Lot cheaper that way.
Did you figure out how to get the steel butt cap off without ruining it?
Here is a good primer on it.
http://www.allaboutpocketknives.com/knife_forum/viewtopic.php?t=32026
rc
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TomADC
Member
Yes I have that link, think it would be hard with out that, my pins are rusted up pretty bad my have to drill the heads off.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
I was wondering if once you have all the rings off, you could drill into the inside plate from an angle from the front to reach the pins.
And then get a punch in the holes to knock the pins out from the front and save them??
I think once you got them to move just a little they could be pulled and saved for reuse.
Might be worth a try.
Also wondered if the front plate could be rotated as far as the notch allows and get a punch in then?
The 225-Q is about the only WWII GI knife I have never had apart to rehandle.
rc
And then get a punch in the holes to knock the pins out from the front and save them??
I think once you got them to move just a little they could be pulled and saved for reuse.
Might be worth a try.
Also wondered if the front plate could be rotated as far as the notch allows and get a punch in then?
The 225-Q is about the only WWII GI knife I have never had apart to rehandle.
rc
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TomADC
Member
I wire brush as much of the rust built up on the exposed pin points and I'm soaking them in oil of wintergreen. I've had good luck with it being able it free up really rusted things.
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