L E Wilson Military Crimp remover-help?

[gifbohane]

I have found that the Wilson Military crimp reamer works the best for me. It slides into their "lathe" and has a knob to give it a few turns to remove the mil crimp.

My son-in-law is taking over the process and says there has to be a way to chuck this into a drill to save his fingers.

Anyone have solutions?

 

[FROGO207]

Buy another and cut off the knob with a hacksaw? Find a different brand that works the same but is designed to work in a drill?
Me, I use a CH4D crimp swaging tool. No removal of the brass so I feel pockets will last longer before expanding. Not sure if it is true or not though.

 

[Jesse Heywood]

I have two tools that I use. One is a primer pocket reamer that I attach a handle to. The is a chamfer and deburr tool. I chuck the case in the drill and remove the crimp.

 

[gifbohane]

Frogo-

The knob twists off and exposes threads. They are too small to screw onto the Wilson turning handle on the case trimmer.

Jesse- What reamer do you use to remove the military crimp?

 

[Howa 9700]

Recently picked up 500 pieces of LC brass that will have to be dealt with, so have been looking for options myself. One that interests me is the RCBS version. With that one, depth control is by registering on the head vs. the bottom of the primer pocket. Can't go too deep. My belief is is will chuck up in a drill or drill press, but would like someone to confirm that is the case. Guess a call to RCBS would confirm it?

 

[lightman]

That Wilson tool is my favorite tool for removing crimps. Mostly because I have fewer rejects with it than other tools. I do use a lightweight glove to protect my fingers. That wasn't necessary when I was working but my hands are softer now! I've heard that someone on Ebay makes and sells a replacement handle that works in a drill.

 

[gifbohane]

That Wilson tool is my favorite tool for removing crimps. Mostly because I have fewer rejects with it than other tools. I do use a lightweight glove to protect my fingers. That wasn't necessary when I was working but my hands are softer now! I've heard that someone on Ebay makes and sells a replacement handle that works in a drill.

If you find the guy that makes it and share it.........a gold dubloon from me.

HOWA-The RCBS trimmer still works for me although it is a now very dull. It outlasted the Hornady trimmer. They both worked great until they "got dull." Although they both worked I would get sometimes get rejects, that would not let a primer in. But that was just my experience and could have been my heavy handed technique.

The Wilson high tech material that was used in their trimmer seems to be holding up but as stated above is tough on the fingers.

I just cannot fiddle with the swagers,of any brand although some guys here swear by them and claim that they are "easy."

 

[LiveLife]

someone on Ebay makes and sells a replacement handle that works in a drill.

If you find the guy that makes it and share it.........a gold dubloon from me.

Here you go -
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Primer-Poc...eamer-use-drill-or-power-driver-/141407498157

 

[gifbohane]

A gold Dubloon for Live Life......................

 

[Fite Man]

I do use a lightweight glove to protect my fingers.

I use the case trimmer holder to hold the piece of brass that I'm removing the crimp from. This gives you more to hold on to and the brass won't spin in your hand.


https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1012820942

 

[Howa 9700]

Does the Wilson case trimmer power adapter also work with the reaming tool? Vs. the one on ebay?

If so, it would appear the three tools should do the job?

 

[Fite Man]

If I remember correctly the threads on the case trimmer are the same as the crimp remover, so both should thread into the power adapter.

 

[gifbohane]

The threads on the normal case trimmer to the power attachment for the Wilson "lathe" and the spin handle for it DO NOT match up with the Titanium primer pocket crimp remover pictured a the top of this thread. These threads are bigger and that is my problem.

 

[Howa 9700]

In that case, what about using a piece of matching female threaded rod? Screw it on and chuck it up? It would be smooth shank, but can't imagine it would matter.

 

[PWC]

The knob twists off and exposes threads. They are too small to screw onto the Wilson turning handle on the case trimmer.

How hard would it be to bend an "L" shape piece of metal and drill and tap it for a handle?[/QUOTE]

Someone beat me to it.[/QUOTE]

 

[gifbohane]

Howa-- Good thought but threads are very fine and I guess I could look for a match in the big box hardware store.

Probably go with Live Life and the $16

 

[PWC]

.

 

[Howa 9700]

I wound up getting the RCBS military crimp remover.......which also has the fine 8-32 threads. Dropped by the hardware store, found these and found it will screw on and chuck up in a drill. Right hand threads, which when coupled to the clockwise turning tool (when viewed from mounting screw end), resistance of the tool when working on the brass works to tighten the nut, so is not going to come off in use.

In use, RCBS crimp removing tool seems to work fine. Has 3 cutting blades, self centers and since the depth is controlled by head stamp turning on the flat base of the cuter, it can't cut too deep. Tried it on some commercial brass for comparison, and it barely scuffs the edge of the rim. Also tried it on some freshly fired LC brass, which should have had a crimped in primer. Only slightly more pressure needed to extract them, and no visible crimp or lip. Not sure is that sample of LC brass needs a crimp removed. And it is not the long range designated. Straight LC brass. Did have the small dots on it.

 

[Kaldor]

I wound up getting the RCBS military crimp remover.......which also has the fine 8-32 threads. Dropped by the hardware store, found these and found it will screw on and chuck up in a drill. Right hand threads, which when coupled to the clockwise turning tool (when viewed from mounting screw end), resistance of the tool when working on the brass works to tighten the nut, so is not going to come off in use.

In use, RCBS crimp removing tool seems to work fine. Has 3 cutting blades, self centers and since the depth is controlled by head stamp turning on the flat base of the cuter, it can't cut too deep. Tried it on some commercial brass for comparison, and it barely scuffs the edge of the rim. Also tried it on some freshly fired LC brass, which should have had a crimped in primer. Only slightly more pressure needed to extract them, and no visible crimp or lip. Not sure is that sample of LC brass needs a crimp removed. And it is not the long range designated. Straight LC brass. Did have the small dots on it.

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Same thing I do, except I put mine in a drill press with a wood block below for the case neck to sit in. Alot less stress on my hands after a 1000 pieces or so.

I run my Hornady decrimper in a drill though, as its better suited for it being more aggressive. You just have to pay attention more so you do not run it too deep.