Military Crimp Removal

[Alabama2010]

Hello again,
I ordered some LC 223 brass that has a military crimp. I've already read about methods of removing the crimp. I think my options come down to the following:
-Dillon Super Swage 600
-RCBS Primer Pocket Combo
-Chamfering/Deburring tool
-Some sort of homemade rigged device with a drill press
-Using an electric drill and 3/16" drill bit

OK, so I really don't want to shell out 100$ for the Super Swage 600- at least not until I'm sure I want to reload 223 in very large volumes.

I like the RCBS Primer Pocket Combo that fits into single stage presses, but at the moment my only press is a Lee Hand Press (which I really like to use). Will the RCBS Primer Pocket Combo fit and work in a Lee Hand Press?

Naturally, I have one of those little Chamfering/Deburring tools. When using this to remove the crimp, how do you know when you've removed enough?
Speaking of the crimp itself, what exactly is it? Does the crimp extend all the way down into the primer cup? I get the sense that it's just at the tip of the primer cup and is formed by a priming machine to help retain the primer. If that's the case, then the crimp is nothing more than a thin bit of brass that's been squeezed out of the opening of the primer cup, correct?

I don't have a drill press, so that method isn't an option.

The 3/16" drill bit option seems more troublesome than using a chamfering tool- and less safe too.

I'd like to use the RCBS Primer Pocket Combo, but if it won't fit a Lee Hand Press or is slower than using a chamfering tool by hand then I think I'll just use the chamfering tool. Any advice or recommendations would be much appreciated. Thanks, Sam

 

[rcmodel]

Will the RCBS Primer Pocket Combo fit and work in a Lee Hand Press?

Not unless you are The Hulk!

It takes a lot of power & leverage to swage primer pockets.

Your cheapest and best alternative is a Lyman or similar Primer Pocket Reamer.

http://www.buffaloarms.com/browse.cfm/4,7060.html

Unlike drill bits and chamfering tools, they are self-limiting on depth of cut so you can't go too far.

rc

 

[lgbloader]

Get a single stage press and go with RCBS's primer pocket swager combo.

You always need a good single stage press.

I would also recap on the reloading process as well. Start at the front of your manual and read read read...

LGB

 

[Randy1911]

I tried the Lyman hand tool, but it didn't work very well for me. In fact, I tried several of the hand tools and was was not happy with any of them. In the end I bought the Dillon. It is the best way if you have a lot to do. It was fast too. The only other option you have is to load only commercial brass without the crimp.

In regard to your question. The crimp is just on the surface. It is suppose to prevent the primer from backing out in full auto fire. I know a guy in the military who says it does not always prevent that from happening tho.

 

[ny32182]

Correct about the crimp; it is just a small ring of brass pushed out around the opening of the primer pocket to help hold the primer in place.

So far I have cut them out with a Hornady hand tool, and it is a tedious PITA. I never do more than about 25 at a time without taking a short break. In fact I'm going to order the RCBS rig very shortly. Looking at it, it looks pretty similar functionally to the Dillion unit, plus it costs 25% of the price and doesn't need to be mounted taking up bench space all by itself. I guess I'll find out how well it works soon enough. Even if it is a little slower than the Dillion, if it gets the job done the same way with just a pull of the press handle, I consider the cost and space saving tradeoffs to be well worth it.

 

[rcmodel]

A tip: A little case lube goes a long ways to make primer swaging go more smoothly!

rc

 

[oxbow]

Take a look at CH Primer Pocket Swager at http://www.ch4d.com/

 

[NuJudge]

I have one of the CH primer Pocket swagers, one of the ones that works on top of the press. I bought it because I thought it would be nice to see what I was doing while I was crimp-swaging.

It wrecks .223 brass. Don't buy it for .223. In order to get enough force to deal with a substantial crimp, it puts so much force on the rim that it deforms a .223 rim.

It may work with larger calibers and rimmed cases. It does NOT work for .223.

CDD

 

[paulcam223]

I have and use the rcbs, you must adjust for different brass, thickness in the base has an effect on the level of success. so sort your brass.

 

[FROGO207]

I started removing crimps with a 45* counter sink that you can get at a hardware store to countersink screw heads with. I think I paid $8.00 or so for it and it worked well in my battery drill. I like it still but it requires a lot of handling of brass. I am thinking of getting a swager in the future myself.

 

[rodregier]

RC Model writes: A tip: A little case lube goes a long ways to make primer swaging go more smoothly!

where are you recommending using the lube - on the tip of the swage ram, or elsewhere?

 

[navyretired 1]

There is a web site "reloading equipment" on E-bay with used equipment you bid on You can pick up a good c press cheap. Get a press and RCBS primer pocket swage.

 

[Frankl03]

Dillon Super Swager! Used it tonight! I wouldn't use anything else plus it does not take any material away.

 

[7.62 Nato]

I was able to borrow a Dillon Super Swage to do my 5.56 Nato and 7.62 Nato cases and it worked great. I'm pretty frugal but it's now on my shopping list. I've heard you can also find crimped primers on 9mm, 45 ACP, and even some .38 Special. Watch your brass.

 

[rcmodel]

where are you recommending using the lube - on the tip of the swage ram, or elsewhere?

Just a light spritz of case lube spray in the empty primer pockets before swaging.

rc