laminate thickness
- Thread starter mainecoon
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mainecoon
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It's going to be a thumbhole sporter stock to accommodate a Remington 700 barreled action in 30.06. Thinking of doing it out of cherry, since laminating might make it less likely to crack. However, maybe a closer-grained wood would be better. Any suggestions?
DM~
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I always make my stock blanks 2-1/2" thick, as that alows, for a heavier stock width, if someone wants it.
Glued up blanks are heavier, if that's a concern for you...
DM
Glued up blanks are heavier, if that's a concern for you...
DM
dfariswheel
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The thinner the laminates, the heavier the stock.
For items like knife handles and pistol grips you need very thin laminations, for rifle stock thicker.
A lot of rifles have 1/8" laminations, but you can go thinner for an accuracy rifle or where you want more contrasting grain to show.
One interesting technique a relative did was to use vacuum to make laminated wood.
He'd apply a coat of water proof wood glue to the sheets of wood and alternate the direction of the grain, one sheet with the grain running lengthwise, the next crosswise, and alternating.
He DID NOT use Gorilla Glue because it foams.
Then he put the wood stack in a really thick, really heavy plastic or rubber bag and use a vacuum pump to pump the air out.
He said that the vacuum put a LOT more pressure on the lamination stack then any wood clamp.
After curing, the lamination was a really solid mass with none of the usual areas where the glue didn't quite take.
For items like knife handles and pistol grips you need very thin laminations, for rifle stock thicker.
A lot of rifles have 1/8" laminations, but you can go thinner for an accuracy rifle or where you want more contrasting grain to show.
One interesting technique a relative did was to use vacuum to make laminated wood.
He'd apply a coat of water proof wood glue to the sheets of wood and alternate the direction of the grain, one sheet with the grain running lengthwise, the next crosswise, and alternating.
He DID NOT use Gorilla Glue because it foams.
Then he put the wood stack in a really thick, really heavy plastic or rubber bag and use a vacuum pump to pump the air out.
He said that the vacuum put a LOT more pressure on the lamination stack then any wood clamp.
After curing, the lamination was a really solid mass with none of the usual areas where the glue didn't quite take.
BCRider
Member
Do you have a bandsaw and a drum style surfacing sander? If you don't then the selection of veneer thicknesses is going to be very slim and the stuff you find will be very thin.
The laminated stocks I've got here and have seen all seem to be made up from stuff that is right around 1.5mm or 3/64 thick.
Keep in mind too that you're not making "plywood" that has 90° grain orientation between the laminations. For a rifle stock you want the grain angle to alternate roughly from +8 to +10 degrees between layers so that MOST of your strength is longitudinal with just enough crossing of the layers to lock the veneers into a mutually supporting sandwich.
The laminated stocks I've got here and have seen all seem to be made up from stuff that is right around 1.5mm or 3/64 thick.
Keep in mind too that you're not making "plywood" that has 90° grain orientation between the laminations. For a rifle stock you want the grain angle to alternate roughly from +8 to +10 degrees between layers so that MOST of your strength is longitudinal with just enough crossing of the layers to lock the veneers into a mutually supporting sandwich.
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