LCR 38+P Flame Cutting

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I bought an LCR in 2014. I do not know how many rounds I have through it. I know that I have shot very few +P rounds in it. I usually shoot full charge wadcutters using Bullseye, Red Dot, or Unique. Anyway, cleaning the other day I noticed flame cutting in the top strap. My question is, how much flame cutting is too much? I know it is self limiting, but does anyone know of an instance where it has rendered the LCR unsafe?
 
I had a .38 spl that looked like it had flame cutting. This surprised me since it was a steel frame gun and flame cutting is found in magnum handguns thar have fired ljots of heavy loads of slow powder. The .38's I load are like your's with relatively fast to medium powder and I had never seen flame cutting in a .38 spl. before. After close inspection and a little scraping with a dental tool I found it was just carbon and burnt powder residue that looked like a flame cut. Cleaned it up with a wire brush and solvent. Examine the top strap closely and hopefully you will find there is no flame cutting at all.
 
Thanks, Steve C. None of my steel frame .357s show this. I am not surprised given that I do not shoot light hot rounds out of them, but stick with heavier weight bullets in the 158-200 grain range. But there is definitely a cut in the frame above the forcing cone in the LCR, which is aluminum rather than steel. It does not seem to be large, but now that I know it is there it does raise some concern. I will try to get a pic and post later today.
 
. . . does anyone know of an instance where it has rendered the LCR unsafe?
I don't think I've ever seen any revolver flame cut enough to matter.

That said, S&Ws Al-Sc framed ultralight .44Magnum has a steel insert to prevent cutting of the alloy frame, so they figure it's important in that frame/cartridge.
 
I don't think I've ever seen any revolver flame cut enough to matter.

That said, S&Ws Al-Sc framed ultralight .44Magnum has a steel insert to prevent cutting of the alloy frame, so they figure it's important in that frame/cartridge.

It's also in their scandium J-frame 357s.
 
Thomas Traddles

Maybe give Ruger a call and see what they say. They're very well known for providing great customer service and support.
 
I bought an LCR in 2014. I do not know how many rounds I have through it. I know that I have shot very few +P rounds in it. I usually shoot full charge wadcutters using Bullseye, Red Dot, or Unique. Anyway, cleaning the other day I noticed flame cutting in the top strap. My question is, how much flame cutting is too much? I know it is self limiting, but does anyone know of an instance where it has rendered the LCR unsafe?

The thought of shooting hot loads thru my LCRs makes my hands hurt without having fired a shot.
 
The only guns that I can recall off the top of my head having a true issue with flame cutting the topstrap of the frame so badly it made the manufacturer quit building them were Rugers .357 Maximum Blackhawks.

Dan Wesson 740’s came with a spare barrel, but I never heard about flame cutting causing issues with their guns.

Those .357 Maximum cartridges had a crazy amount of gas and pressure blasting away through the barrel/cylinder gap, worlds beyond the .38 or .38 +P. Even if there is a tiny bit of etching to the topstrap over the B/C gap, your gun will be fine.

Stay safe.
 
Picture would help.

On the KLCR's built for .357 Magnum cartridges Ruger installed a piece of metal over the BC gap to protect the frame.
 
Here are a couple of pics. I think you can see what I am talking about.
 

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Now I am no revolver expert but to me if you had flame cutting wouldn't it be directly above the gap between cylinder and forcing cone.

May be pic angle or something but that mark looks like it's actually forward of your forcing cone so I don't see how that is flame cutting.
 
Looks like lead residue..to me .. but I don’t know much of nuthin ;-)

I really like my LCR357...
 
Not lead, Buckeye, that is divot. If it was lead I would have that scrubbed out in a jiffy! And it looks like it is ahead of the forcing cone, but it is eating into the corner of the frame and upwards.
 
Not lead, Buckeye, that is divot. If it was lead I would have that scrubbed out in a jiffy! And it looks like it is ahead of the forcing cone, but it is eating into the corner of the frame and upwards.

Yep ... I hope its OK .. Id most likely let Ruger look at it ...

But ... My last SP101 had a horrible, unacceptable
Crane Arm / Frame fit... I paid for its trip to Ruger .. they said “ Its within specs “ I sent a pic of my $200 Charter Undercover and Taurus 85 fit .. I said thats what it supposed to look like .... Crickets .....

I traded the Ruger .. full disclosure.. took a $150 hit
But I do like the LCR357
 
Honestly, I can't tell from those pictures. Better pictures are required. The angle of the first one is best for looking at the top strap. But it needs to be in focus.
 
In your photos it appears to be a minor issue but I understand your concern. I would give Ruger a call.

Also, when you are trying to get close ups of your revolver if using a cell phone try not taking the shot close up, but a foot or more away then expand the photo in edit mode to get the closeup. It works for me on my iPhone.
 
FWIW, We have an aluminum alloy framed S&W 642 . 38 Spcl. in the family, purchased new several years ago. It does not get shot much, but there is some actual etching/gas cutting in the alloy frame above the barrel/cylinder gap. It does not cause me concern. I have other revolvers and, as I would expect the steel frame guns show less evidence of gas cutting than the aluminum alloy framed 642. Even with a lower pressure cartridge like the .38 Spcl, we're still talking thousands of PSI of hot gas with each shot....
 
And, now it is not off to Ruger. Got another email this a.m. stating "aluminum flame cutting has been sporadic and rare. We have shot a number of them to over 5000 rounds each with 158 grain +P and in every case the flame cutting stops and ends up being only a cosmetic issue. It does not create a strength issue." I have decided to keep it for now.
 
I'd say stick with fast powders and something heavier than 125's and you'll be fine. Now 125's "might" work out OK but you'll have to test. I typically shoot 125's and 158's with Titegroup, Bullseye, HP38, A5...and do I dare say this?....Alliant e3.
 
I've used E3. It was a good powder. I don't shoot but 158 or 200 grain bullets through the LCR, but these are usually powered by Unique or Universal.
 
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