Lead loads for accuracy or minimal leading?

[LiveLife]

Since I have loaded jacketed bullets for match shooting and plated bullets for practice, I have always used accuracy (tight shot groups at typical match ranges of 7-15 yards) as my primary determiner as which charge load to go with.

While I am reviewing my lead test loads for best accuracy and duplication of my match load recoil, I am also keeping an eye out for loads that seem to minimize leading. Fortunately, leading has been minimal for me so far with barrel fouling coming clean with 10-15 minute soak in Hoppes #9. I do have 3 different lead cleaners, but so far have not needed to use them.

Now that I am loading more and more lead bullets in 9mm/40S&W/45ACP for range practice (thanks to Missouri Bullets), what's your experience/practice as to what determines your "final load"? It is accuracy or a particular load that minimizes leading?

 

[Tilos]

Accuracy, as leading has never been a problem for me.
Buy a Lewis lead remover (Missouri Bullet has them) and you can skip the Hoppes soak and have a squeeky clean (dry) barrel in 30 seconds.

Just sayin'
Tilos

 

[Walkalong]

A load that leads will not be accurate for long, so an accurate load that does not lead is what we strive for.

We need to get our sizing right. We need a little help from the gun. A revolver with undersized throats will lead, and will not stop until we fix the throats. We need to get our alloy/BHN/hardness right for what we are tring to do.

Shooting lead bullets adds the element of leading to the equation which complicates our load procedure a bit over shooting plated or jacketed. A small price to pay for the savings. Look at it like a challenge to overcome.

Have fun with it instead of fighting it.

"Embrace the horror" Rockhound....Armageddan

 

[fecmech]

It has been my experience that good accurate loads don't lead at all or do not accumulate (leading is the same after 1 shot as after 100 shots). With a decent lube and proper sizing (as Walkalong posted) leading is not an issue. The 9mm is the only cartridge that I ever had minor leading in and that did not accumulate. That is mainly because of the fast (1 in 10") twist in the 9 and 35000 psi operating pressures. The same 35-40K pressures in a .357 with a 1 in 16 or 18 twist, no problem or leading at all.

 

[NuJudge]

A lot of the Leading problem in 9mm pistols has to do with barrel groove diameters usually being larger than standard. My Beretta 92FS has .358" groove diameter. Thankfully, it's chamber allows a cartridge with a .359" bullet to freely chamber.

CDD

 

[ljnowell]

I dont know about others here, but I find that the loads that lead the least tend to be the most accurate also. Either you load too light, and dont bump the base of the bullet and it leads, or you push the bullet too hard and it leads. Assuming you are loading within published data you usually find your best accuracy somewhere in the middle towards the top, most of the time anyway. Thats usually where you dont lead too, using the proper bullet.

 

[fecmech]

A lot of the Leading problem in 9mm pistols has to do with barrel groove diameters usually being larger than standard. My Beretta 92FS has .358" groove diameter. Thankfully, it's chamber allows a cartridge with a .359" bullet to freely chamber.

I couldn't agree more, my BHP 9mm groove was .3575. I've used .358 bullets in 3 different 9MM's with good results.

 

[bluetopper]

I never shoot jacketed or plated bullets and really don't see the need to. The hard cast handgun bullets I buy do all I need them to do with no leading. Even 44 Magnum loads.
I shoot 500 S&W hard cast lead gas check bullets out of my Handi-Rifle at 2300fps and don't get any leading.

 

[LeonCarr]

I have a buddy with a Ruger P89 that slugs .357. I loaded him some 125 grain .358 Lead TCFPs and it cut his groups in half at 25 yards (from 3 inch groups to 1.5).

Just my .02,
LeonCarr