Lee Auto-Drum question

[vaalpens]

I received a Lee Auto-Drum over Christmas and is in the process of verifying everything and making sure I can trust this powder measure over my dipper/trickle/scale method.

One of the features I will probably disconnect is the "disconnector button" since I will still do batch loading on a single stage press. I verify the powder level before seating any bullets.

The instructions shows how to install the down-stroke verification device, but it does not show how to uninstall it. This is not a problem since I assume everything should just be reversed for the uninstall.

The problem I have is what to do with the phillips screw after I have removed the disconnector and latch lever.

The installation instructions shows that the screw originates from the hole where the latch lever pin goes into. The problem is that the screw just drops into the hole, instead of me being able to screw it into the hole.

Does anybody know if the screw has to stay in this hole, or is it just a place for safekeeping with performing any function?

The following images from the instructions showing the two different holes for the screw.

 

[splattergun]

Refer to pic A. Where that screw comes from is where I screwed it back in when I removed the disconnector.

 

[vaalpens]

Refer to pic A. Where that screw comes from is where I screwed it back in when I removed the disconnector.

splattergun, thanks for the response. To me it seems that if the auto-drum came without the installed the downstroke verification system, then the screw hole as shown in pic D is threaded and contains the screw. My auto-drum came with the installed downstroke verification system. When I removed it, the diffrence is that the screw hole as shown in pic D in my auto-drum is not threaded and the screw just slips into the hole. No need to screw it in. It can also drop out if I turn the AD upside down.

I'll probably will have send Lee an email asking about the function of the screw with the verification system removed in light of no threads in the screw hole.

 

[drband]

My newest (replacement) AutoDrum unit is the same way. I just dropped the screw in the unthreaded hole. Should not be a problem.

 

[Dudedog]

I have a copy of the manual as soon as I figure out how to insert it.

 

[vaalpens]

My newest (replacement) AutoDrum unit is the same way. I just dropped the screw in the unthreaded hole. Should not be a problem.

drbrand, thanks for the information. I will probably just put a bit of teflon tape on the threads just so it fits a bit tighter in the non-threaded hole. I assume the screw still has to perform some sort of role/function, so it is better to put it where it belongs.

 

[Dudedog]

Remove-it

• Dudedog
• Dec 28, 2016
• 1

Fix auto-drum

Here is the page from my auto drum manual on how to remove it.

 

[vaalpens]

I have a copy of the manual as soon as I figure out how to insert it.

Dudedog, it is easy to remove it and put it back again. Just be careful with the plastic parts since they have to be bent a bit. Be patient.

I just did some testing with BE-86 powder to see how accurate it is. I was impressed, but there were some variation from the set weight, but not much. It is a pain to remove all the powder when done, so I will definitely only use the AD for 50 or more rounds.

 

[drband]

Teflon tape is a good idea. I'll steal it!

I believe the screw keeps the disconnect link from accidentally sliding back to the disconnect position.

Using the teflon tape would keep the screw from falling out when I invert the AutoDrum to dump residual powder before changing drums!

Actually, removing powder is very easy and quick. 1. Turn off the hopper valve and remove the hopper. 2. Remove the turret and invert the housing over the open hopper and dump the residual powder. 3. Replace the turret.
Done! Takes less than a minute!

 

[vaalpens]

Remove-it

• Dudedog
• Dec 28, 2016
• 1

Fix auto-drum

Here is the page from my auto drum manual on how to remove it.

Thanks again Dudedog. My instructions show how install the disconnector, and yours how to uninstall the disconnector. Step 4 is the issue where the hole does not have any threads and is bigger than screw. In step 3 they show that the connecting link should be moved all the way to the right, so the screw basically keeps the link from moving to the left (as noted by drband).

 

[Dudedog]

If you are used to using the Lee disk measure Remember there are no screws holding the powder hopper on the drum measure on
You can probably guess why I mentioned this, I forgot once.....rrrrggggghhh spilled powder.
Happy with mine so far but the stiff spring will mangle slightly miss aligned .380 cases (user error), no issues with other cases.

 

[vaalpens]

If you are used to using the Lee disk measure Remember there are no screws holding the powder hopper on the drum measure on
You can probably guess why I mentioned this, I forgot once.....rrrrggggghhh spilled powder.
Happy with mine so far but the stiff spring will mangle slightly miss aligned .380 cases (user error), no issues with other cases.

Dudedog, yes I did notice that the powder hopper is not screwed down. I will have to be careful. Thanks!

I will also have to be very careful with my 357sig loads since I try to be very specific with the flaring of the case mouth. I don't want to over expand it, but I still need to make sure I get a full rotation on the drum. It will still be a while before I put the AD into production. At this point it will be a lot of trial runs, like when I first started reloading, just to make sure I get a consistent throw and expansion.

 

[Load Master]

Dudedog, yes I did notice that the powder hopper is not screwed down. I will have to be careful. Thanks!

I will also have to be very careful with my 357sig loads since I try to be very specific with the flaring of the case mouth. I don't want to over expand it, but I still need to make sure I get a full rotation on the drum. It will still be a while before I put the AD into production. At this point it will be a lot of trial runs, like when I first started reloading, just to make sure I get a consistent throw and expansion.

The very latest units being shipped from Lee don't have the second hole for the screw. The screw is a must if the disconnector is removed as it holds the push link from sliding over the the deactivated position. I added a strip of paper around the screw before inserting it. The screw has stayed put.

I have a video that shows how to adjust the Lee Auto Drum to insure that the drum is fully rotating that you might find of interest. All in all the Auto Drum has proven to be a great powder drop for me.

 

[vaalpens]

The very latest units being shipped from Lee don't have the second hole for the screw. The screw is a must if the disconnector is removed as it holds the push link from sliding over the the deactivated position. I added a strip of paper around the screw before inserting it. The screw has stayed put.

I have a video that shows how to adjust the Lee Auto Drum to insure that the drum is fully rotating that you might find of interest. All in all the Auto Drum has proven to be a great powder drop for me.

Load master, thanks for the additional information.

I went ahead last night and wrapped some teflon tape around the screw and it seems to be working. Your solution of using a strip of paper is probably easier since you can cut the paper into a narrow strip, but the teflon tape was a bit difficult to get evenly around the screw.

The video explains very well how to ensure a full drum rotation. My concern was more the expansion part since I want to make sure I expand my cases enough, but do not over expand especially my 357sig cases. I am probably overthinking it, but will have to play with it to endure I get the desired results.

 

[RealGun]

Dudedog, it is easy to remove it and put it back again. Just be careful with the plastic parts since they have to be bent a bit. Be patient.

I just did some testing with BE-86 powder to see how accurate it is. I was impressed, but there were some variation from the set weight, but not much. It is a pain to remove all the powder when done, so I will definitely only use the AD for 50 or more rounds.

The powder hopper has an ON and OFF position. To dump powder, your rotate the hopper to the OFF position and lift it off the measure. It just sits on it. You dump the hopper, and then pull the entire turret or remove the powder measure and dump what is a significant amount remaining in the mouth of the powder measure into the powder storage container. No big deal, but we might have to learn our lesson on just how much powder is left behind after lifting off the hopper. It's a bunch.

 

[drband]

Yep, if you forget to dump the residual powder before changing a drum, you'll have a bit of a mess on the press.

 

[vaalpens]

The powder hopper has an ON and OFF position. To dump powder, your rotate the hopper to the OFF position and lift it off the measure. It just sits on it. You dump the hopper, and then pull the entire turret or remove the powder measure and dump what is a significant amount remaining in the mouth of the powder measure into the powder storage container. No big deal, but we might have to learn our lesson on just how much powder is left behind after lifting off the hopper. It's a bunch.

Yep, if you forget to dump the residual powder before changing a drum, you'll have a bit of a mess on the press.

Thanks for the reminders! The last thing I want is some powder all over press, bench and floor. So far I am impressed with the AD and I know it will definitely save me some time when I load 50+ rounds.

 

[Wreck-n-Crew]

The very latest units being shipped from Lee don't have the second hole for the screw. The screw is a must if the disconnector is removed as it holds the push link from sliding over the the deactivated position. I added a strip of paper around the screw before inserting it. The screw has stayed put.

I have a video that shows how to adjust the Lee Auto Drum to insure that the drum is fully rotating that you might find of interest. All in all the Auto Drum has proven to be a great powder drop for me.

Most helpful video Load Master ! Nothing like a good visual aid, faster and easier! Thanks!

 

[vaalpens]

I did a few additional tests with the Auto-Drum with different calibers:

Using 38spl I found that once AD was set for a full drum rotation, the case was not expanded enough for my plated cast bullets. I had to make more adjustments until I had the proper flare.

With 357sig I found that I had sufficient flare before full drum rotation. This could be an issue since I want to retain as much neck tension as possible. I will have to do some more testing and do my full bullet setback test using the Auto-Drum. I'm not sure how 357sig loaders will use the the Auto-Drum if they don't expand the mouth. I know rifle calibers can use the charging die, but the short charging die is for cases from .860" to 1.760", where the sig case can be from .855" which is shorter than .860".

It will be interesting to know if there are any 357sig reloaders using the Auto-Drum and the short charging die.

 

[Dudedog]

The reason I spilled powder is I was used to removing the turret with the measure attached and dumping the powder back in the can. Won't work if you try it theis way with the autodrum.
I have found you can get consistent charges with less than full rotation as long as you have "enough" rotation.
Hope it will work for you with the Sig. Nice measure, great price, but not perfect.