Lee Loader and the 30-06 Springfield

[P.B.Walsh]

Hi ya'll, I am wishing to start reloading. I will be only loading the 30-06 cartridge. I have looked at several starter kits, primarily the Lee single stage kit. However, I have recently discovered their "Lee Loader". It is basically a travel size reloading kit for one cartridge, with fire-formed brass.

Has anyone used this? Keep in mind that I only am planning to reload for one rifle, a Winchester 70, and just in 30-06. Comments?

Also, my lgs have several powders that I can buy: Hodgdon IMR-
4350, 4198, 4831, 4064, 4227, 7828, 4320, Yarget, 3031, Retumbo, H4831SC, and Winchester 296. Which one of these are good for a basic load for the cartridge? I have heard, read rather, that 4350 is a decent choice.

Any other comments will be very welcome, I'm pretty green to this, just want a simple tool to reload without going broke.

Thanks ya'll, much appreciated!

 

[gibble888]

I use lee dies so i cant say about the loader but i like h4895 because of its reduced loads and my 06's shoot it great at all charges.

 

[jcwit]

I use a Lee Loader at the range to work up loads when trying a new powder or bullet. Many folks claim its a very slow way of reloading, but if you reload in batches of say 25/50 cases at a time it pretty fast, almost as fast as working with a single stage press.

The Lee Loader is basically the same as reloading with a Wilson die set up, which is one of the most accurate ways of reloading.

Be sure to use a plastic dead blow mallet for best results.

 

[jcwit]

Oh, one other thing, you may want to look at a hand primer to go along with the Lee Loader. Much easier? And for many less nerve racking.

 

[Vacek]

I have many different sets and have used them for years. For basic reloading they are really worthwhile. I don't have any problem with the priming system unless I am trying to prime a brass that was military and the crimp wasn't removed. Other than that, a piece of cake and very accurate. Go for it.

 

[plmitch]

I have a few I use every now and then, Cheap and handy.

 

[rvn67n20]

I'd go so far as to suggest that the Lee Loader is a great way to get into handloading. You'll see each and every operation required, and with a little thought you'll begin to see the refinements possible and appropriate in the process. I'll be the first to admit that it's a slower way to produce ammo than is a progressive press, but (as a Contender 'fanatic') it's a great way to feed a single shot, a bolt or lever, or even a semi that's not simply a spray-n-pray toy. And for the price? Pretty close to a no-brainer, as the kids used to say.

 

[P.B.Walsh]

Well dang, I am glad to hear the positive responses about the product, I'll just on it as soon as possible!

Any more advice of powders and econamical primers?

 

[TenDriver]

I don't think there's much in the way of economical primers anymore. As far as powder choices, go online to the various powder MFRs and print out the .30-06 data. I have found in bolt guns my personal preference to be slower burning powders. Lately I've been enjoying a 130 gr SST over 52.2 gr of Ram Hunter in my 270. I load .06 for my M1, which is a 150 gr bullet over 46 gr of IMR-4064, or 4895. Both are fairly gentle in bolt guns.

If you get up to HSV, let me know. I'll see if we can't meet up and let you load some sample rounds on my single stage so you can see what works the best in your rifle, then go from there on your Lee Loader.

Let me add also that reloading is quite addictive. To me, more so than shooting. You might think about going ahead and getting a single stage for when you want to branch out into other calibers.

 

[splattergun]

well, if you're certain that the 30-06 is the only caliber you will ever load for, no reason not to try the Lee Loader. But if you own, or will own in future other calibers, you may want to go with an actual, more versatile and useful press.
I've been loading only a few years, but now when I buy a new gun, I consider availability of components and include the cost of dies with the gun's price. Just a thought.

 

[sappyg]

I started out loading strictly for one round too. THAT didn't work out too good.

With that said I recommend laying in as much powder, primer and bullets you can come across. It doesn't matter how slow you load a round. You need the components for a magic bullet brew.

I've looked high and low locally for 4350, 4831, 4064 with no luck for some 06 loads. Fortunately, I had some put away, along with a good many bullets and primers.

 

[P.B.Walsh]

Well, I just want to dabble in reloading. The 30-06 is going to be my rifle for just about everything. I'll look at various charts for their respective powders. I am tremendously excited to start this stuff up!

 

[TenDriver]

I'd also get a scale. The Loader has you fill that dipper cup, which is going to give you variable charges A scale and a pan will give you much more versatility.

 

[4895]

Well, I just want to dabble in reloading

Spoken like a true addict.

I don't see why a person wouldn't use a Lee Loader for .30-06 bolt guns. I would pick up a pound of IMR-4064 and a box of your favorite 150 grain bullets, along with 100 primers and give it a shot. Your first 100 rounds should cost you about $100, providing you purchase a digital scale; pretty close to factory price. Your next 100 rounds should cost about $50, about half price.

But I would advise against it and just purchase factory ammo unless you shoot more than 200 rounds a year.

As far as 4350 is concerned, it will work but I think it is a little slow for .30-06. I prefer IMR-4064 but YMMV. You might want to find out what size measuring cup the L.L. comes with so you can pick a powder that fits the scale better. I believe the kit comes with a 3.4cc cup.

I think IMR-3031 may be your best choice with this caliber. It should yield about 44.6 grains and according to Hodgdon.com is between their 43.0-46.7 grain start/stop loads with a 150 grain bullet.


http://www.leeprecision.com/cgi-data/instruct/Dippers.pdf

http://data.hodgdon.com/cartridge_load.asp

 

[243winxb]

Lee "hammer" loader

Problems with Lee "hammer" loader. Low velocity because the dipper supplied only works with a few powders.You can buy a set of dippers also. If you buy a scale and load hotter, the brass will no longer chamber in the rifle. Soon or later, brass will need to be full length sized. Seating primers with a hammer = Kaboom soon or later. So you need a primer seating tool. Depending on the brass used, it may be hard to seat a bullet. Resulting in slight deforming of the bullets ogive. Will it load ammo, sure. Photo of loading data from a very old loader. Yours may be different.

 

[jb27]

I agree with most replies above. The Lee Hand Loader is a great way to get into reloading. That's how I started. As others have mentioned, I recommend also picking up a scale to weigh out the powder charges and a hand primer. A set of calipers and some reloading trays would also be helpful.

Good luck. It won't be long and you'll be buying new rifles just so you can develop loads for them...

 

[4895]

Don't forget to check the trash cans at the pistol range. A plastic ammunition tray from a box of .45 auto perfectly holds 50 rounds of .30-06 size brass. It's as cheap as I know of to make a "load block" and works very well for me.

 

[ranger335v]

Don't buy ANY powder until you get that neat and efficent little kit, it will include a chart of different powders for different bullet weights and, as a public safety measure, few gun stores will let you swap any gun powder that's been taken out of the door.

I began reloading for .30-06 in 1965 with GI surplus ammo I first pulled down to get rid of the heavily crimped in WW2 corrosive primers. I used a borrowed Lee Loader to remove the primers because it was sturdy enough to easily do the job. Virtually every one of those 500 caps went off as I sat cross legged hammmering away on the decap die sitting on a concrete block laid on my carpeted living room floor - wife soon got so used to it she didn't even flinch! I wear glasses anyway and used a leather work glove on my left hand so no damage occured; no holes in the roof and I still had the same eyes, teeth, ears, arms, hands and all fingers when finished. Meaning don't sweat the potential for an occasional "Pop", which is normally VERY unlikely unless you try to seat new primers with one slamming blow. A cheap 12-18 oz. plastic faced mallet is the right tool for whacking.

"Fire formed" cases just means fired and those are the only ones we reload! When we load and fire them they will be formed to our chamber. The Lee Loader kit only has a neck sizing die. In spite of the oft heard "common wisdom", nothing is automatic about not using cases from others; you may be quite able to use neck sized cases originally fired in other rifles and only a test will tell you about each donor case, so if you have access to other brass, take it. Just neck size them and then see if each one will chamber in YOUR rifle before you go any further reloading it. IF you can easily close your bolt on the empties you're home free! IF not, you may be able to get someone else to FL size them for you later and they'll work then.

You obviously want to make a modest amount of functional ammo and you may well be totally satisfied with the capability of that little Lee kit forever; a LOT of peope have been! So, don't let others with entirely different needs (or wants) make you question if you're doing the right thing or if you need to add a scale, or other powder dippers or an adjustable powder measure, etc, at this point. The dippers actually work quite well if used as intended and the reloaded ammo will be safe IF you stick to the included instruction sheets. (Nothing is safe if you ignore instructions!) IF you ever want something more sophisticated you'll know it and you'll have a much better idea of what you might want. Until then, have fun and let us know how you're doing!

 

[351 WINCHESTER]

I use the "whack a mollie" for my .303 British. It makes more accurate ammo than factory and for a heck of a lot less too. Get a hand primer of your choice and practice being consistent with the powder dippers and stay away from max. charges and you will be happy.

 

[jcwit]

Don't buy ANY powder until you get that neat and efficent little kit, it will include a chart of different powders for different bullet weights and, as a public safety measure, few gun stores will let you swap any gun powder that's been taken out of the door.

I began reloading for .30-06 in 1965 with GI surplus ammo I first pulled down to get rid of the heavily crimped in WW2 corrosive primers. I used a borrowed Lee Loader to remove the primers because it was sturdy enough to easily do the job. Virtually every one of those 500 caps went off as I sat cross legged hammmering away on the decap die sitting on a concrete block laid on my carpeted living room floor - wife soon got so used to it she didn't even flinch! I wear glasses anyway and used a leather work glove on my left hand so no damage occured; no holes in the roof and I still had the same eyes, teeth, ears, arms, hands and all fingers when finished. Meaning don't sweat the potential for an occasional "Pop", which is normally VERY unlikely unless you try to seat new primers with one slamming blow. A cheap 12-18 oz. plastic faced mallet is the right tool for whacking.

"Fire formed" cases just means fired and those are the only ones we reload! When we load and fire them they will be formed to our chamber. The Lee Loader kit only has a neck sizing die. In spite of the oft heard "common wisdom", nothing is automatic about not using cases from others; you may be quite able to use neck sized cases originally fired in other rifles and only a test will tell you about each donor case, so if you have access to other brass, take it. Just neck size them and then see if each one will chamber in YOUR rifle before you go any further reloading it. IF you can easily close your bolt on the empties you're home free! IF not, you may be able to get someone else to FL size them for you later and they'll work then.

You obviously want to make a modest amount of functional ammo and you may well be totally satisfied with the capability of that little Lee kit forever; a LOT of peope have been! So, don't let others with entirely different needs (or wants) make you question if you're doing the right thing or if you need to add a scale, or other powder dippers or an adjustable powder measure, etc, at this point. The dippers actually work quite well if used as intended and the reloaded ammo will be safe IF you stick to the included instruction sheets. (Nothing is safe if you ignore instructions!) IF you ever want something more sophisticated you'll know it and you'll have a much better idea of what you might want. Until then, have fun and let us know how you're doing!

Pay attention to this post. It is one of the most sensible posts I've ever read about the Lee Loader.

 

[P.B.Walsh]

Dad-gum, thanks for all of this information! I now remember to get calipers and a powder measure. But how is the hand primer better?

 

[jcwit]

Just my own personal opinion, its easier? & less nerve racking if one happens to go off. This happens once in a while when using this set up, not to fear tho, totally harmless, but a little loud.

 

[351 WINCHESTER]

With a hand primer you can feel the primer seat and no chance of it going off. Believe me a lr primer is nothing to fool around with as they are very powerful.

 

[witchhunter]

A lot of us started with this kit. I would not recommend it today. For just a little more you can get into a Lee press. The Lee Loader kit has several limitations, it only neck sizes the brass. After several firings your brass will need to be full length sized in order to chamber correctly. The dipper that comes with your kit will only work with certain powders, and there is no adjustment. Seating primers can be hmmm, entertaining with a hammer. Buy the Lee press kit and you can use it the rest of your life, add dies for more calibers as you need to and truly reload ammo to maximize your rifle's capabilities.

 

[John C]

I'm a big fan of the Lee Loader. I have many other presses, including Dillon progressives and an RCBS Rockchucker. I still load on a Lee Loader, occasionally. I use a hand priming tool and arbor press, now. But I loaded a fair amount the old way.

Start by loading a box or two, according to the directions. Then consider getting a hand priming tool. It dramatically speeds up the priming process, which is one of the major bottlenecks in the system. Then consider dropping the $15 on a full set of Lee dippers, so you can dial in your powder load better. Lee dippers are very accurate and repeatable, if you watch your technique.

A lot of guys critique the Lee Loader for only neck sizing brass. This is well known in benchrest circles to be more accurate than full-length resizing. If, after 5 or so reloads, your brass gets difficult to chamber, either discard it or find a buddy with a resizing die and resize them. Then reload them another 5 times and do it all over again. Plus, this method removes the requirement to lube and remove the lube from the resized cases. Much faster, and there's no need to buy a tumbler.

The Lee Loader, like Wilson dies, chamber seats the bullet in the case. This is the most accurate way to seat bullets, because the case is fully supported during seating.

I now have a Harvey deprime tool and an arbor press that I use with my Lee Loaders and Wilson dies. I like the fact that you can reload at the range easily and that speeds up load development.

Good luck!

-John