Lee Safety Scale issue

[RevolvingGarbage]

Im getting my reloading bench all set up, and I've been practicing with my Lee powder measure and scale (the kit I have is the Lee breechlock challenger). My measure isn't throwing the most consistent of charges and I'm working on figuring that out, but the scale is making it very difficult.

The end of the scale that rides between the damping magnets has a slight amount of side to side play, so the scale frequently brushes up against the magnet. When this happens, I have to tap the scale arm slightly so it swings freely, and I feel like this is throwing off the calibration of the scale. Is this a normal problem with a cheaper scale like this or is there an issue with my particular scale?

Also, about the powder measure. Its throwing a charge about a half grain lighter than what I set it to, and it doesn't simply drop the full charge on its own, it must be tapped quite a few times after the handle is pulled down to free the last bit of powder. Is this normal? Would a better powder thrower eliminate this issue?

 

[husker]

Finer powders will work better in the Automatic Measure. I tap mine to.just to make sure & check it against the scale about every 15 to 20 rounds. I have the Lee Anniversary set up. For under a $100.00 it aint bad. But far from the best I'm guessing.
Re-loaders 7 really struggled
H335 good results
HP38 good
& Pyrodex P for my cowboy's. Is good to

 

[sniper5]

The Lee is not the fanciest or fastest scale to use but it has been accurate for me. I have occasionally had the problem of not having the arm centered but it is usually easily corrected and not occurring often enough to be annoying. If you are having lots of issues with it, contact Lee. Their customer service is outstanding.

As far as the powder measure, liberally coat all surfaces with powdered graphite by dumping some in the hopper and tapping and knocking it around, inverting, working the parts, etc. Then knock out the excess. This will do several things: Coat any surfaces that the powder comes in contact with to improve flow, cover any surfaces contaminated with release agents that are causing powder to adhere, and break up any static charges. Gunpowder is coated with graphite, so this will not be a contamination issue. As you use it you will notice that the performance improves due to the graphite residue from the gunpowder.

 

[Muttt]

I picked up a brand new RCBS Uniflow Powder measure on evilbay for only 70 bucks (free shipping) which is about half the price of one off the shelf. Works good, throws really well and consistant. It does like round/ball shaped powder much better than extruded.

As far as the scale, I went out and bought a Franklin Arsenal digital scale for 40 bucks. It runs on watch batteries and is good within a 10th of a grain. Really good little scale. Comes with a 20 gram check weight. I normally cross check the beam scale and the digital scale just to verify. But, I found that the digital scale is much faster and much more accurate. No waiting for the scale to stop swinging. Anyway, now I have a really trustworthy system of measurement for about 100 bucks. Well worth it in time and effort. I check my powder measure about every 10 - 15 throws just to make sure.

Hope that helps a little. Watch the Ebay for either gun shop closeouts or estate sales. Thats how I got all my dies, powder measure, brass trimmer, and shellholders. 350 bucks worth of stuff for less than 100 bucks. Well worth the trouble.

 

[RevolvingGarbage]

Thanks guys. It will be a little while before I can upgrade, but I will keep my eyes open for deals.

Sniper5, I did do the recommended one hopper full of powder through to break it in, are you saying I should use pure powdered graphite too?

I'm really happy with the kit in general. I'm sure I'll have all the kinks worked out and be pumping rounds out soon enough, thanks for the help guys!

 

[sniper5]

Oops, sorry, missed the question earlier.

Probably don't need to use graphite now, although it won't hurt. I just use graphite for anything from the ram up (measures, funnels, primer feed, etc out of the box because I found it prevents a lot of minor problems and makes everything so much slicker and since the powder is coated in graphite it's totally safe and won't change anything, and it tends to break up static electricity so there's no cling).

 

[qajaq59]

Every so often I clean my powder measure ( not a Lee) and then do the graphite routine. Makes it work like a charm. And if yours has a plastic tube for the powder, just coat the outside VERY lightly wth a little household detergent. That will kill the static charges for months.

 

[jerkface11]

Uniflow and a 505 scale are the only way to go.

 

[ranger335v]

"I have to tap the scale arm slightly so it swings freely, and I feel like this is throwing off the calibration of the scale. Is this a normal problem with a cheaper scale like this or is there an issue with my particular scale?"

I don't much like the Lee scale but your "feeling" is incorrect unless you actually move the poise on the beam.

Magnetic dampened beam scales (which they have all been since about 1970 or so) will stop swinging in a couple of seconds. For the life of me I can't understand how that is an impediment to weighing charges fast enough and I much prefer a beam scale that will follow a trickler more consistantly than most digitals do.

 

[1SOW]

I've had mine do that twice. Each time, I've lifted the beam off the pivot point and carefully reseated it. It seams like it will seat slightly off-center from the proper pivot point.

Since then, I have a level shelf above my reloading area, and I never move it around.

Mine is very consistent and accurate if it's zeroed properly IAW the instructions.

 

[noylj]

Lee wants you to drop 1 pound of powder through your measure.
Most powders I have don't have enough, if any, graphite to work.
I would:
1) Read the directions very carefully. The measure is held together by a cone-into-cone system that needs to be properly adjusted (some times, for an individual powder) to work smoothly and not leak.
2) Disassembly the measure and clean it with rubbing alcohol and check for any burrs or molding flash that needs to be sanded smooth. You can see if there are any areas that are retaining powder or causing other problems. The whole thing disassembles for inspection and cleaning.
3) Fill the hopper with powder and work it though the measure. If you are getting ANY powder bridging, call Lee.
For the beam balance, remove the beam and inspect the fulcrum point and SS razor blade for damage. The beam should rest in the notch without any wobble.
Is the beam straight? It is molded and it may have warped while cooling improperly and Lee will need to replace.
Are the magnets tight? The beam should not have enough play to contact the magnets.
PS: until I took up reloading back in 1974, I had NEVER used a balance beam scale with magnetic dampening. That right there throw off the sensitivity. On a normal balance beam, you are at the correct weight when the swing right equals the swing left and the beam never stops moving. In fact, the beam is only on the balance when a measurement is made—the rest of the time it is off so there can be no damage to the critical fulcrum point during non-use.

 

[mdi]

I've used a Lee Safety Scale off and on for 20+ years. I occationally have to "center" the beam on the pivot, but it doesn't affect accuracy/zero. Just reach down from the top and with your thumb and index finger feel both sides of the base and the beam and center it. Takes way longer to say it than do it. I clean the pivot (razor edge) with a pencil eraser and put a drop of oil on it to prevent rust. I especially like the way the piose can be locked in place to prevent accidental movement. Great idea.