Let's talk a little more about springs

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1911Tuner

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Specifically...Commander springs as designed and installed in Colt Commanders and Combat Commanders. For some reason, I seem to draw a lot of flak over my 30-year practice of cutting Government Model springs to length...even though it works perfectly. Much ado over nothing. Really.

It's been said that cutting a 16-pound 32-coil spring to 24.5 coils and installing it in a Commander will result in a spring that's far too light...but it's not. Compared to a stock/OEM Colt Commander spring, it's difficult to feel any difference, if not impossible. In some comparisons, the cut spring is actually a bit stronger, and testing bears it out. It's not 18 pounds, but it's heavier than 16 in any event. Due to variations from lot to lot, and even minor variations within the same lot...they average about 16.5 pounds at full slide travel installed in the gun.

Another favorite target/point of contention is made over changing the in-battery preload. Far too much is made of that point. In the first place, there will be little difference, if any...and even if there is...what does it mean? What possible difference could a pound...plus or minus...make in a gun that can be fired successfully and without issue...without a spring? As long as the slide goes to battery reliably and is positively held in battery by spring tension...what does it mean? It means exactly zip.

Why does the cut Government Model spring result in more loading at full slide travel in a Commander? Very simple for those understand the difference in the guns and have thought it through.

The space available in the Commander's spring tunnel is a good bit less than that in the Government Model...both in static preload and at full slide travel. The spring's coils are simply packed more tightly...closer together at any given point. As a coil spring compresses, its loading increases as it gets shorter, and if pushed past the point of its
intended distance for the gun that it was designed to work in...it continues to increase its loading until the coils touch. It doesn't stop adding load when it hits the limit.

When a 24.5 coil cut GM spring is installed in a Commander, the spring is compressed more tightly than the stock Commander 22.5 coils spring is in static preload...and at full slide travel, the coils are nearly touching...so the load goes up in both conditions. Preload and at full compression...at the limit of slide travel...as installed in the gun.

So, the points of reduced preload...if there is any...are really pointless contention for the sake of argument, apparently. After all...When some of the nation's top competitors use 10 or 12 pound springs with major power factor ammunition...isn't that essentially what they do? Decrease preload? When variable rate springs are installed in pistols...isn't that essentially what happens? Preload is decreased and full travel load increased? And the guns seem to do just fine, no? Then, what exactly is the point of all the drama?

This works very well. I've used it for something over 30 years in my Commanders and Combat Commanders...and I've had many over the years...and save for a couple of guns slated strictly for carry... shot most of'em pretty hard.

My springs live long and function fine. My guns aren't damaged. Felt Recoil is indistinguishable from my 5-inch guns. Neither accuracy nor reliability is compromised...and Government Model springs are about half the cost of Commander specific springs, even though they're essentially the same springs. Same wire diameter. Same material...music wire...and the only difference is in how they're wound.

Finally...If 18 pounds for a Commander is truly the standard, Colt must have missed the memorandum. Or...maybe it's another one of those "Dog in the Fight" things.

As a disclaimer, please note that this works only on Commanders and their faithful clones with standard recoil systems, and that all installations should be checked for coil bind before the gun is fired. Aside from that...Gentlemen...shoot'em if ya got'em.
 
Anecdote:
The local USPSA GM brought his racegun to FLG for an overhaul, nothing but routine cleaning for a claimed 100,000 rounds. The recoil spring was set to about 2/3 length and worn to D shaped wire against the guide. But it was still shooting.

Most of those guys use lighter than stock springs even in their uncompensated Limited guns. They are tuning the gun for the recoil characteristics giving them quickest target reacquisition, but they would not do anything that would hurt the reliability or service life. They shoot and they last.
 
Hello Tuner long time no talk to. I don't want to drag this thread off the rails but it reminded me of something similar done in my world.

Being the owner of Browning Hi Powers in both .40 S&W and 9mm parabellum calibers, seems I'd have to buy and keep in stock two different weight recoil springs, right? Nope, I just put fresh 20 lb'ers in the .40 BHPs as needed, and recycle the old ones into the 9mm versions. Bottom line is that everything about this practice works just fine to date.

So, I can at least relate to your practice with the cut off springs for Commanders.

And hey, lookee, the venerable Jim Watson has posted into this thread while I was slow-typing. Another friendly salutation in your direction, JW. :cool:
 
I enjoy your comments, Tuner, and understand most of them. This one certainly makes sense to me and if you can save a buck on springs in the process, why not?

(Sometimes I "hang by a thread" at some of the explanations and associated theories and formulas I read - not necessarily yours - re: why something works or doesn't...to the point that, when I think I get it, it's almost scary. ;)
 
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I suppose that somebody can get right down to the nth degree of a spring's characteristics using complicated formulae and geometric theorums and the like to disprove my insistence that it really doesn't make any difference as long as the gun goes to battery and stays there until the hammer falls...

But...

To what end? Why all the drama over thinking outside the box...refusing to drink the Kool-Aid...and pointing it out? We're not dealing with sensitive equipment that requires anything even close to that sort of precise measurement. The 1911 is actually a fairly crude piece of machinery, relatively speaking...and its operational parameters are long, wide, and deep.

So, no more drama. Use whatever spring you like and whichever one makes you feel good.

Cheers
 
I'm with you, Tuner. Why mess it up with a formula/theory if you can get there with a count/measurement and common sense...AND/OR an example of proof. ;)
 
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Different context but still on the springs. When I watch someone fire the 1911GM and observe the recoil which is mostly the slide hitting the stops, how much resistance does a 16# "recoil" spring provide slowwing down the slide? Please use techincal terms like "a litle bit", "a good bit", or "a bunch".

Considering that the spring probably does "a little bit", then I could work up a load with a 165gr LRNFP to say 400fps and simply put a spring in that would return the slide to battery.

A test on a Glock after "respringing" it is to point it up in the air, cycle the slide slowly and, holding on to the slide, if the slide goes to battery slowly, you are OK to go.

Having said all of that, I could use that same aforementioned 1911 spring and compete with hardball.

Another question. You have mentioned the felt recoil in a 1911 sans a "recoil" spring is relatively light. I wonder how strong of a mainspring you could go to that would cock the pistol consistently?
 
RC...The slide just doesn't hit the frame all that hard.

I have to laugh when I hear these frame damage Chicken Little types issuing dire warnings and advice. They never stop to consider the slide. That's what takes the real pounding.

Tiny radial lugs locked in opposition under shearing forces that would lop off an oak limb like a soft pretzel. The breechface gets slammed by the case in a few milliseconds with 20,000 pounds psi every time the trigger is pulled. The slide walls are under tremendous tensile stresses...

...and all they're worried about is the frame impact abutment?

Really? I mean...really? Think. If the slide will endure under all that, surely the frame will stand a kiss from a sprung slide. Incidentally, the slide has an impact abutment, too...but nobody seems to ever mention that.

But...The Kool-Aid is abundant and sweet. Drink ye therefore. It's only money.

Pretty sure that 25 pound mainspring is as high as they go, RC. I once induced short cycle in a stock, pre ILS 5-inch 9mm Springfield by using a tiny radius on the firing pin stop with no other changes. Short with 115-grain ball...but not with 124s.

Whoops! There goes that mass/momentum thing again.
 
BTW, it might be important to tell some to put the slide stop in the pistol to make the barrel work properly.

I'm impressed with the slide stop pin.

I guess I am going to have to fire that sucker in a myriad of ways. I gotta find out what nothing feels like up to strong something.

But you haven't really answered my question. Put another way, if you installed a spring that just allowed the slide to pick up a round, chamber it and go to battery, it would be OK. Lube, tightness, etc. is assumed in the "all things being equal".
 
Put another way, if you installed a spring that just allowed the slide to pick up a round, chamber it and go to battery, it would be OK.

No, it wouldn't. When you've got it cut that close, the variation in ammunition from one shot to the next or a slight variation in your grip can easily mean the difference between "just" picking up a round and the slide not moving far enough to pick it up. You want the slide to make the full trip to the abutment. Always.
 
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