WonderNine
member
Is there a rubber wraparound for the lever action of a Winchester Model 94 30-30? They tend to hurt the knuckles after a little while. I was thinking about just using electrical tape, but that looks dumb and cheap.
Lever wrap around for Winchester model 94?
- Thread starter WonderNine
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Marshall
Member
WonderNine, are you happy to hear you have a junky one? 
You might even try some some electrical shrink wrap to secure it better.
Good luck,
You might even try some some electrical shrink wrap to secure it better.
Good luck,
Big_R
Member
I'm a little puzzled by this. The new ones are harder to actuate than a well used one, just like any rifle, but it still shouldn't hurt your hand. I guess it would help to know what kind of hurt we're talking about here. Check for any sharp edges, burrs, etc. If it still bothers you, I would wrap it with baseball bat tape. It's somewhat soft and provides good traction. Either that, or I would look for some Plasti-Dip and paint it on.
Another option is to look for a lever with a larger ring. I believe Midway sells them. They look like a "John Wayne" type of lever. That may just do the trick in addition to making them easier to run with gloves on.
Ryan
Another option is to look for a lever with a larger ring. I believe Midway sells them. They look like a "John Wayne" type of lever. That may just do the trick in addition to making them easier to run with gloves on.
Ryan
iamkris
Member
Do what the Cowboy Action Shooters do: leather wraps.
There are a number of people who sell them -- I don't have the names or URLs, do a search -- that are essentionally little leather ponchos that wrap around the finger loop.
Or do what I did, buy rawhide boot laces and double wrap that areas super-tight. Increases the area and spreads out the pain.
Very important when you rapid fire. Not such a big deal if you're deer hunting but makes a world of difference if you're popping off 10 rounds in 3-4 seconds (45 C before anyone cries foul)
There are a number of people who sell them -- I don't have the names or URLs, do a search -- that are essentionally little leather ponchos that wrap around the finger loop.
Or do what I did, buy rawhide boot laces and double wrap that areas super-tight. Increases the area and spreads out the pain.
Very important when you rapid fire. Not such a big deal if you're deer hunting but makes a world of difference if you're popping off 10 rounds in 3-4 seconds (45 C before anyone cries foul)
W.Va.Glassman
Member
Look for some paded gloves.
BusMaster007
Member
iamkris had the idea --- leather boot laces.
WonderNine
member
It was made in 1974....it's five years older than I am....
It hasn't seen much use though.
WonderNine
member
Thanks, I like both the leather wrap and the boot lace idea. I don't know how I'd keep the bootlace on the lever though. Do you just tie the end of something?
swampgator
Member
Go to www.therangerdigest.com, scroll down the left side of page til you get to "para-cord knife". Click on it and scroll down the page to see the diagram.
Substitute leather boot lace for para-cord. Pull the leather tight, but try to avoid breaking the lace.
Good Luck.
WonderNine
member
This looks pretty neat.
Think I'd cut off the tassles though, yeeeehaw!
http://eightbitsleather.home.att.net/Wrap.htm
Think I'd cut off the tassles though, yeeeehaw!
http://eightbitsleather.home.att.net/Wrap.htm
Detritus
Member
another method and one that i unfortunately have lost the template design for. was to pad the lever with batting or foam, then over wrap with soft but durable leather (pigskin was what i'd planned to use, had to sell the .45colt Marlin though so never did) and lace the bottom up with leather or rawhide thongs, like a shoe or an old style shirt. tie it off and trim the excess away.
also a bit of advice/info...
unless for some reason you decide to go through the PITA of undoing your work on a regular (weekly) basis to wipe down the wrapped area, coat the areas of the lever to be covered, in turtlewax, or another coating that will prevent rust AND not seep into the leather. if you don't do this step, prior to installing a wrap that can't be easily taken on and off to allow wipe down, your lever will eventually and usually quickly become VERY pitted.
many/most tanning processes either USE salts or other corrosive agents to tan the leather, or otherwise attract moisture and/or corrisive agents, and the wrap also traps condensation and/or sweat next to the metal. so it is best to protect the metal. and also to remove, inspect, re-coat, and if needed swap out on a regular basis, any wrap that isn't readily removed when not needed.
the one's eight bits makes are snap on/off, this is part of why there is such a "skirt" on the underside, to allow the snaps to work without risking damage to the guns bluing. but the snap closure allows you to take it off when you're not using it and thus allows the lever to be wiped.
also a bit of advice/info...
unless for some reason you decide to go through the PITA of undoing your work on a regular (weekly) basis to wipe down the wrapped area, coat the areas of the lever to be covered, in turtlewax, or another coating that will prevent rust AND not seep into the leather. if you don't do this step, prior to installing a wrap that can't be easily taken on and off to allow wipe down, your lever will eventually and usually quickly become VERY pitted.
many/most tanning processes either USE salts or other corrosive agents to tan the leather, or otherwise attract moisture and/or corrisive agents, and the wrap also traps condensation and/or sweat next to the metal. so it is best to protect the metal. and also to remove, inspect, re-coat, and if needed swap out on a regular basis, any wrap that isn't readily removed when not needed.
the one's eight bits makes are snap on/off, this is part of why there is such a "skirt" on the underside, to allow the snaps to work without risking damage to the guns bluing. but the snap closure allows you to take it off when you're not using it and thus allows the lever to be wiped.
stellarpod
Member
Good info Detritus. Just to add to it, be sure to use "vegetable tanned" leather as the tanning process leaves it much less corrosive to metal.
I wrapped the lever of my Marlin 1894 Cowboy about a year ago with cord that I bought from Tandy Leather and haven't seen any signs of corrosion yet.
And as for buttrap's..."Only the junky new ones do that" comment, he's obviously never participated in a match requiring a high volume of shots.
stellarpod
I wrapped the lever of my Marlin 1894 Cowboy about a year ago with cord that I bought from Tandy Leather and haven't seen any signs of corrosion yet.
And as for buttrap's..."Only the junky new ones do that" comment, he's obviously never participated in a match requiring a high volume of shots.
stellarpod
WonderNine
member
I don't think I want to put turtle wax underneath it, yeecchh. If it rusts over time, I'll just have the lever reblued. The lever sleeve is supposed to be made out of deerskin. The guy is gonna make me a black button one without frills too. I think it'll be neat. The 94's got a really nice recoil pad and I put a black elastic ammo sleeve on the stock that holds 9 rounds. Gonna be a sweet short range game/home defense rifle when I get the lever pad on it.
Detritus
Member
it don't have to be turtle wax.....
can't remember the other (non car wax) products that were suggested, but heck probably anything that's non-corrosive to blued metal, and makes a protective layer would work (i keep thinking clear lacquer might do, but not so sure about that)
i shot ONE match without a pad, wrap or glove...... never again!! for those who have not seen a CAS match, the average rifle portion of a stage is 9 or 10 rounds (most are 9 to keep teh match from being biased against, usually new, shooters who have rifles like the Winchester trapper series that ONLY hold 9 rounds), you engange multiple targets, as fast as possible. THEN transition to either pistol or shotgun.
my first match was 6 stages (that's 54 rounds/ lever movements plus cycling the action at six unload tables to show clear), afterwards the last three fingers of my right hand didn't work to well..... between then and my last match before having to sell my gear for bill money, i always wore a pair of leather gloves when shooting.
it's not the stiffness of the lever (though on new guns that CAN cause some hurt, esp if your knckles aren't calloused), it's the impact of your fingers flicking down as fast as they can into the bottom of the lever loop. the less gap and/or more padding between fingers and bottom bar of the lever, the better.
hunters will almost never NEED to operate a lever both that fast and that many times in one day. so the movement is much gentler, and many times done in a different manner (even now if I'm shooting fairly slow alot of times i'll move my hand and use my thumb to open the lever, then close it with my hand on the outside of the loop).
different uses, different needs, methods, AND perceptions
can't remember the other (non car wax) products that were suggested, but heck probably anything that's non-corrosive to blued metal, and makes a protective layer would work (i keep thinking clear lacquer might do, but not so sure about that)
i shot ONE match without a pad, wrap or glove...... never again!! for those who have not seen a CAS match, the average rifle portion of a stage is 9 or 10 rounds (most are 9 to keep teh match from being biased against, usually new, shooters who have rifles like the Winchester trapper series that ONLY hold 9 rounds), you engange multiple targets, as fast as possible. THEN transition to either pistol or shotgun.
my first match was 6 stages (that's 54 rounds/ lever movements plus cycling the action at six unload tables to show clear), afterwards the last three fingers of my right hand didn't work to well..... between then and my last match before having to sell my gear for bill money, i always wore a pair of leather gloves when shooting.
it's not the stiffness of the lever (though on new guns that CAN cause some hurt, esp if your knckles aren't calloused), it's the impact of your fingers flicking down as fast as they can into the bottom of the lever loop. the less gap and/or more padding between fingers and bottom bar of the lever, the better.
hunters will almost never NEED to operate a lever both that fast and that many times in one day. so the movement is much gentler, and many times done in a different manner (even now if I'm shooting fairly slow alot of times i'll move my hand and use my thumb to open the lever, then close it with my hand on the outside of the loop).
different uses, different needs, methods, AND perceptions
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