Light primer strikes

[DDawg]

I test fired my first 380 reloads in my SW Bodyguard today. Fired 20 rounds, about 1/3 were light primer strikes and would fire on the 3rd trigger pull every time.

The facts:
I am using mixed headstamp brass, wolf sp primers, 3.8grn unique, berrys plated 100 gr FBRN bullets, OAL .975. Bullets plunk tested ok (as far as I could tell, I'm still kinda new) ALSO when I dropped the bullet in the barell to plunk test, If I remember correctly the bullet would move ever so slightly further in the chamber when I pressed with my thumb.
When I seated the primers, some seated easier than others.
My BG has never had a light primer strike on factory ammo.
I reload 40 cal in my Glock 23, using the same wolf primers and never had a light primer strike.

My first guess would be the primers weren't seated all the way, or I need to check my OAL.(I'll compare with the factory loads)

What else should I look at?

Thanks
DD

 

[ArchAngelCD]

USUALLY, when a round does not fire on the first strike and does on subsequent strikes the primers were not seated correctly. The first or second strike completes the seating and the next drives the anvil into the primer compound causing it to ignite.

 

[rsrocket1]

Ditto Archangel,
Be sure primers are seated at least flush (a finger feel works well), or a couple of mils lower.

This is easily accomplished if you put them in a loading block or factory boxes nose first before you store them.

 

[JRWhit]

did you trim the brass to uniform length? Are u using any crimp? As u stated it's most likely a primer not fully seated. when dealing with mixed once fired brass, I have found a lot of short brass. I'm assuming that some factory rounds must rest on the bullet rather the rim of the case, but sure enough I've found many cases leaving way too much headspace off the rim. If you have any short cases it may result in light strikes being too far from the pin for a good hit. See what the primer looks like after the first failed strike to see how indented it is.

 

[gamestalker]

If this firearm has perform reliably with factory ammo, then your first guess regarding primer seating depth is correct. Considering that they did fire on the 2nd or 3rd attempt then it's pretty clear. seat primer to .004"-.006" below the case head or until you can feel them setting, a term I apply to the feel of the anvil preloading when seated.

GS

 

[Steve C]

when I dropped the bullet in the barell to plunk test, If I remember correctly the bullet would move ever so slightly further in the chamber when I pressed with my thumb.

This could be a clue to the reason for your light strikes. IF the bullet is engaging the lead of the rifling and not fully chambering, that "ever so slightly further" movement in the chamber may be cushioning the blow from the firing pin enough so that it doesn't set the round off. Subsequent hits from the firing pin with the bullet now chambered can then hit the primer with enough force to ignite it.

Seating the bullet slightly deeper may solve your problem.

 

[Arkansas Paul]

I had the same problem with my Taurus 709 and the problem was my primers weren't seated deep enough. I was getting used to my new Lee Turret press and had to really learn how to prime correctly on it. Problem easily solved.

If the problem is indeed light strikes, try some Federal primers. They tend to be a little softer and easier to ignite than others, but I doubt that's the problem.

 

[GRIZ22]

Using a hand priming press or tool eliminates all of this primer seating depth issues. If you seat the primer to the bottom of the primer pocket there are no badly seated primers. If you have mixed brass or even brass with the same headstamp they may not be seated to the same depth but this is of no consequence as long as the primers are even or below the case head.

 

[DDawg]

Thanks for the replies, I am using a RCBS hand priming tool. I will pay more attention to primer seating depth next time, but I do run my finger over each one to make sure it is at least flush. (I still get a little nervous seating primers). I am also using the lee factory crimp. I did measure some of the cases after sizing and they were slightly below the trim to length. I'm not sure exactly how far.

Thanks
DD

 

[mstreddy]

I do run my finger over each one to make sure it is at least flush.

The primers should be seated below flush.
Adjust your primer seating methods.
That should take care of it.

 

[gamestalker]

I've been using an RCBS priming die for several decades that mounts in the press. I adjust it to the depth desired, and wham bam all are seated near identical depths. But seating primers with others tools is really just as simple, just make sure they are totally bottomed out in the pockets, all is good.

GS

 

[243winxb]

Post #6 is my guess.

 

[gamestalker]

I think you nailed it 243winxb, post #6 does sound more the case here? They definitely shouldn't be moving forward when pushed into the chamber.

GS

 

[1SOW]

Straight wall 38--9mm pistol cases don't need trimming.
Seat the primers ALL the way in, not level, not 'X' amount, just all the way bottomed in the primer hole. Don't smash them flat, but fully to the bottom.

When you do the drop test for checking clearance, you should here a metallic "clink" when you drop them in. That clink is the case mouth seating . With NO clink, the bullet hit the leade/rifling first---oal too long.

Hope this makes sense.