To add to
@Reloadron and his excellent post, the legs of the anvil need to be touching the bottom of the primer pocket (Period), and you can seat them even further until the cup pushes over the legs and hits the bottom of the pocket as well and not hurt the primer. Some call this "pre-load" .
Ever bang on a nail in a board with no support for the board? Can't get that sucker in good, same thing, much of the blow is absorbed by the movement of the board. In the primers case, much of the blow of the firing pin is absorbed/wasted pushing the primer deeper.
I know better and I did it the other day, I used my old Sinclair hand primer I had not used in a long time and it wouldn't seat the primers past flush. Well, hard headed me said what the heck (Even though I have more hand primers) and shot them anyway. All went well for quite a few of them before they started misfiring and causing me issues. I re-seated the remainder of them (Don't do this at home boys and girls) .005 below flush with the new hand primer and bingo, issue solved. *Sigh* And I know better.
The 21st Century hand primer is simply awesome. I love the click adjustable head.
You can precisely control how deep each primer will be seated for match rounds.
Uniform the primer pockets, set the priming tool, and every single one will be the
same, no need to "feel" it hit bottom each time. Set it up and prime.
I can fix the Sinclair hand primer, I just need to take a piece of it out, chuck it up in the lathe, true it, and remove about .008 from it. If that is too much it has shims to handle that.