I recently bought myself a Ruger Blackhawk in .357. It has a 4 and 5/8" barrel in blue steel. It was an impulse buy, but the more I shoot it, the more I like it. It kind of forces you to take your time and make every shot count. I've found myself taking it with me on range days and neglecting my other toys.
In any case, I've been making my own loads for it. I had a bunch of .38 brass sitting around, so that's what I've been using. I have yet to shoot a .357 home brew out of it. A few weeks ago, I was looking around on line for some .357 brass and was surprised to find how hard it is to locate and the price of it at those places that have it in stock.
**ANY LOAD DATA CONTAINED HEREIN IS NOT CLAIMED TO BE SAFE. I ONLY USE IT IN REVOLVERS CHAMBERED FOR .357 MAGNUM AND WHETHER I AM GOING TO BLOW MYSELF UP REMAINS TO BE SEEN**
Anyway, I've been using .38 brass exclusively and to tell the truth, I'd like to keep using it. Not only is it cheap (and I have a ton of it), but it's easier to extract as well. I load my .38 with 158gr LSWC from Missouri Bullet Company. I've been using these exclusively (the "action" bullets that are harder). I also use both Accurate No. 2 and No. 5. My load with the No. 2 is at 4.4 grains and with the No. 5 it's at 6.2 grains. These loads are beyond the recommendations within the data published by Accurate, but I have yet to see any signs of pressure. Brass is easy to extract and I haven't seen any flattened primers.
I did some research on the .357 and from what I gather, the .357 is just an extension of the .38. The first .357 loads were developed using .38 brass. At some point in time, .357 brass was lengthened to prevent the use of the hot loads in revolvers meant for .38s only.
I'm not talking about using .357 data with .38 special brass, but was wondering how hot can you get with .38 brass? From what I understand, .38 special brass can handle pressures way beyond those generated by SAAMI spec .38 special loads. I'd love to be able to get into the 1100 to 1200 FPS range using .38 special brass with the projectiles that I'm using and if it is attainable, it will be done at a bit of a reduced cost considering that I'll be using less powder and cheaper brass.
If you can share your personal experiences, I'd appeciate it.
In any case, I've been making my own loads for it. I had a bunch of .38 brass sitting around, so that's what I've been using. I have yet to shoot a .357 home brew out of it. A few weeks ago, I was looking around on line for some .357 brass and was surprised to find how hard it is to locate and the price of it at those places that have it in stock.
**ANY LOAD DATA CONTAINED HEREIN IS NOT CLAIMED TO BE SAFE. I ONLY USE IT IN REVOLVERS CHAMBERED FOR .357 MAGNUM AND WHETHER I AM GOING TO BLOW MYSELF UP REMAINS TO BE SEEN**
Anyway, I've been using .38 brass exclusively and to tell the truth, I'd like to keep using it. Not only is it cheap (and I have a ton of it), but it's easier to extract as well. I load my .38 with 158gr LSWC from Missouri Bullet Company. I've been using these exclusively (the "action" bullets that are harder). I also use both Accurate No. 2 and No. 5. My load with the No. 2 is at 4.4 grains and with the No. 5 it's at 6.2 grains. These loads are beyond the recommendations within the data published by Accurate, but I have yet to see any signs of pressure. Brass is easy to extract and I haven't seen any flattened primers.
I did some research on the .357 and from what I gather, the .357 is just an extension of the .38. The first .357 loads were developed using .38 brass. At some point in time, .357 brass was lengthened to prevent the use of the hot loads in revolvers meant for .38s only.
I'm not talking about using .357 data with .38 special brass, but was wondering how hot can you get with .38 brass? From what I understand, .38 special brass can handle pressures way beyond those generated by SAAMI spec .38 special loads. I'd love to be able to get into the 1100 to 1200 FPS range using .38 special brass with the projectiles that I'm using and if it is attainable, it will be done at a bit of a reduced cost considering that I'll be using less powder and cheaper brass.
If you can share your personal experiences, I'd appeciate it.