loading 6.5 Creedmoor with Lapua brass

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flexible

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Hi Everyone; flexible here. About to take the move to loading/reloading rifle ammo. Been loading handgun ammo (.38 Special, .38 Super, .45 ACP) for decades but I am a total novice at rifle ammo.
I have purchased a Redding T7, Redding Type S dies, Berger 130 grain bullets & Lapua 140 grain bullets.
For brass I have once fired Hornandy & virgin Lapua.
I have Winchester Large Rifle primers that are for the Hornandy brass
BUT
the Lapua brass takes a small rifle primer - QUESTION, I use Remington 7 1/2 Small Bench Rifle primers for my .38 Super handgun loads - WILL these Rem 7 1/2 small bench primers be a good choice for the 6.5 Creedmoor Lapua brass?
thanks & any other advice would be welcome - like setting up the Type S dies!
flexible
 
IMO yes, the Remington 7 1/2 primers will work quite well in the Lapua brass.
I'm wondering why you are using them in the 38 Super since they are usually used in 223 ammo meant for an AR style rifle?
 
The .38 Super loads are from my old IPSC days - major. .38 Starline Super comp brass, a fully supported chamber in a race gun and 9 gr of Blue Dot. Gun has held up for years with no signs of overpressure on the brass.
 
On the type s dies, I assume you have a full length sizer. Just set up to bump the shoulders enough to chamber reliably - no more. Per the instructions, don't tighten the bushing completely down. It needs to float just a hair to center. Then you get into which bushing to use if you do not want to use the expander ball. I still use the expander and I use a bushing that still lets the expander drag slightly. It works the brass very little and accuracy has been exceptional.
I don't have an S die for the 6.5 or I would give you the bushing size.
 
The two most popular primers for accurate loads are Federal Match and CCI in either match or Military/NATO spec primers. I avoid Winchester for precision loads because I can never get an consistently accurate load using them. YMMV Nothing against them personally. As far as Remington 7 1/2 primers go I cannot say how well they work for precision loads but there are plenty of people who like them. I would try them and if you have trouble finding a load Move to CCI or Federal before trying a different powder

Lapua brass is still hard to beat and I would go with it. Nothing against Hornady but Lapua is near perfect brass. Case volume, weight, size.

By the way what powder are you using? Most people are having great luck with H4350. About 3 months back A guy was shooting next to me with A RPR in 6.5 using Lapua brass, Fed 210M (he had the large primer) , H4350, and Berger 140gr VLD and he was killing it. His largest group in 6 groups was under .75" . Three groups were bug holes about 1/3".
 
Regarding the Redding Type 'S' dies I have 3 - * Competition bullet seating die, * Type S bushing style sizing die, * body die. Photos attached
20190301_052153.jpg 20190301_052248.jpg
 
More info on what I'm planning to use:
*IMR 4064
*Sinclair hand primer
* I've been using a Lee Universal decapping die
* I plan on using the Redding .290 'S' bushing
Please let me know if this makes sense.
thanks
flexible
 
Thanks for all the advice; time to order some more supplies and watch some 'you tube' on setting up the Redding type 'S' dies.
regards
flexible
 
The two most popular primers for accurate loads are Federal Match and CCI in either match or Military/NATO spec primers. I avoid Winchester for precision loads because I can never get an consistently accurate load using them. YMMV Nothing against them personally. As far as Remington 7 1/2 primers go I cannot say how well they work for precision loads but there are plenty of people who like them. I would try them and if you have trouble finding a load Move to CCI or Federal before trying a different powder

Lapua brass is still hard to beat and I would go with it. Nothing against Hornady but Lapua is near perfect brass. Case volume, weight, size.

By the way what powder are you using? Most people are having great luck with H4350. About 3 months back A guy was shooting next to me with A RPR in 6.5 using Lapua brass, Fed 210M (he had the large primer) , H4350, and Berger 140gr VLD and he was killing it. His largest group in 6 groups was under .75" . Three groups were bug holes about 1/3".
 
Wreck-n-Crew; BTW at what range was the guy 'killing it' with those tiny groups? 100, 300?
thanks
flexible
 
Yes, I plan to use the internal expander

Getting a mandrel expander pays off in the end. You paid a goodly bit for the Redding dies, no excuse not to get an inexpensive mandrel expander.

Setting up the dies is simple. Take out the bushing, start with a fired case which either won’t close back into the bolt or fits tightly, strip your bolt, clean your rifle/chamber, and progressively size the brass until it closes. You’ll be able to feel the shoulder drag in the chamber when you have the max length of case for the chamber - knock it back 1-2thou from that drag length. Take the expander button off and throw it in a drawer. Throw the bushing into the die, screw in the plug until it touches, back off 2-5thou, and tighten the lock ring. Done.
 
This is what I find most intimidating about loading for rifles; all the years of pistol reloading was simple - straight wall cases, no lube needed, low charge weights. I never heard of a mandrel expander before!!!
Are there any solid books anyone would recommend for step by step rifle reloading?
I am afraid I will wind up missing something important
thanks
flexible.
 
The mandrel expander is used by a lot F class shooters, for long distances, 600 yrds +. The difference is that it will keep the neck straight where the expander can pull it off center. If you not turning the necks I would not worry about it unless your planing on shooting long distances.

There are several different type of rifle hand loaders. Those who just want a good hunting round (200-300 yrds), those for plinking and those who want the smallest group they can get at all distances. Chasing that nugget sends you down a very different path, everything has to be same. Most are shooting custom guns too.
 
Mandrel expanding is indeed a critical step in long range shooting, as it does help promote consistent velocity, but it's also important for shooting small groups at short ranges. Mandrel expanding helps reduce potential introduction of run out, so the bullets are more squarely introduced to the leade, more concentrically to the bore. Most guys shooting factory rifles with generous chambers and "it is what it is" bores might not ever notice the difference in group size, or they might dismiss a slight flyer in what still appears to be an impressive group - that one bullet which fell just outside of a smooth, round group - they might accept it all because it's still shooting very small, and exceeding their expectations. Until they DO improve performance, and notice that those flyers weren't bad trigger control, they were caused by the ammo...

When you're spending a couple hundred bucks for Redding Type S match bushing dies, adding a $15-30 bushing to it, and swallowing a micrometer seater cost (really not worth a plug nickel unless you change bullets often), then the expense of about $40 for a Sinclair expanding die and mandrel is pretty minimal (add $10 for the carbide bushing instead of steel). I feel like a lot of guys just like to find any excuse to minimize the value of any reloading process step they don't do so they don't feel so bad for not doing it.
 
Just went on Sinclair and ordered the tungsten mandrel & the Gen II die, also ordered some Hornandy 'sure-lock' die locking rings - heard they were really good.
Gee, with the Redding 3 die type 'S' dies & the mandrel expander die that leaves 3 open spaces on my Redding T7 - anything else I should get? LOL
I have a universal decapping die separately on a Lee single stage press where I decap all brass before cleaning
thanks
flexible
 
Wreck-n-Crew; BTW at what range was the guy 'killing it' with those tiny groups? 100, 300?
thanks
flexible
Sorry it was 100yds. He was using a front rest and rear bag on a concrete bench. Not sure what his scope was but it was maxed out at 14x.
 
Really dumb (and hopefully final question, you've all been very helpful) how about a crimp die???
we use them in pistol loading but I just realized I don't have one for rifle - 6.5 Creedmoor.Is it needed? is it part of the bullet seating die?
thanks
flexible
 
Crimp is part of the bullet seating die body, so be sure to set up the die accordingly. I don't crimp rifle ammo either. Run an empty sized/trimmed brass into the seating die, screw the die down until you feel the crimp ridge contact the neck, then unscrew the die some - I use a turn or more since I don't want the die to touch even a long neck.
There are people who crimp bottleneck brass and I won't say it's wrong, just that I don't have the need in box mag and single shot rifles.
 
This is what I find most intimidating about loading for rifles; all the years of pistol reloading was simple - straight wall cases, no lube needed, low charge weights. I never heard of a mandrel expander before!!!
Are there any solid books anyone would recommend for step by step rifle reloading?
I am afraid I will wind up missing something important
thanks
flexible.

There are a couple books out there, some better than others.

But I’ll offer, no sweat if you’re not interested, kick me a PM and I’ll go through whatever you might want with you.
 
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