loading BP without a dump?

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RugerBob

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Hey all, I load black powder and wonder the best way without a powder dump. I only load about 50 45-70s and a few hundred 45LCs with BP.
I usually pour into a volumn type measurer. Gets a little messy. I was thinking of pouring powder into a bowl and scooping that way and wondered if plastic or glass better for that as static could be an issue.
I have a funnel to pour back into canister when done. I use both pyrodex RS and goex#2. But would like a more convienent way to do this without getting a powder dump as I load so few. I hunt with the 45-70 loads and plink play with 45lc loads.
Any better ideas are appreciated, Thanks, Bob
 
Cut off 45-70 & .45 Colt cases the right length to dip the desired amount of powder for each.
Use your powder scales to weigh charges while cutting the cases the right length.

Then solder copper wire handles on them so you have something to hold onto.

I would suggest a glass or aluminum non-sparking bowl & funnel.

rc
 
Wipe the inside of the bowl with a drier sheet. This will help eliminate static and make your ammo smell rain forest fresh.
 
I like the Lee powder dipper set of scoops for this job. Pouring the powder into a ceramic coffee cup works well to dip out of. Choose the dipper closest below the weight of the charge you want, dump onto your scale, add a few grains to bring up to your weight. Nice, simple and flexible.
 
I would recommend making a dump -- just get a two or three foot lenght of copper tubing and put your powder funnel over it, as if it were a case. It works better if you attach it to an upright -- like the leg of your bench. You can even ground it, if you like.
 
Vern, Are you refering to a small tube? Or larger dump size tube? Is the purpose for compression?
My biggest issue is a 1/2 can of powder and trying not to make a mess getting it into BP volumn style hand dump. Full can I can get scoops easily. Thanks Bob
 
Black powder loads better if dropped down a tube -- you can get more powder in the case. Black powder burns better if compressed, and using a drop tube helps.

Yes, put the powder in a bowl -- I like those that butter or whipped topping come in. Use your dipper, and drop the powder down the tube, adding powder as needed, then compress the powder by seating the bullet.

You may find that an over-powder card, and a tiny bit of SPG lubricant between card and bullet helps.
 
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Thanks Vern , I will try that as I have access to the tubing. How long before and if contamination from lube if on top of over powder card? I had heard using pre lubed wads contaminated loads, so just asking your opinion. Thanks, Bob
 
First of all, experiment. If you're using Lee dippers, start with one that you know doesn't quite fill the case when dumped directly into the case. Then set up the tube, using your powder funnel at the top, and try the next larger dipper, and the next, until you get the case nearly full. If using a card wad and SPB "pea" under the bullet, go with a little less powder -- it's a trial and error process until you get the right charge.

SPG will not contaminate your powder, especially if you use a tight over-powder card. The key is to look for hard powder fouling -- if that occurs, you need the SPG.
 
Don't know about pyrodex, but it's incredibly easy to build your own powder drop for the real black powder. I did mine with some basic plumbing and electrical supplies. Half inch copper tube with copper brackets to secure it onto a scrap 1x4 of about four feet length, brass sheet curled into a funnel at the top and bottom. Then secure to any bench with C-clamps to the desired height above your cartridge holder which sits on the ground. Dump your load down, move the holder one notch over with your foot so the bottom funnel feeds that case, and repeat. Fast and really easy. Plus you can make a LONG drop tube to get all your 70 grains in, with a little help from a powder ram afterwards. As with all things black powder, the key is to do it exactly the same time each time.

I found lining up two lengths of copper tube was as simple as using a lighted "target" at the end and getting a nice clear picture, tweaking and straightening them until it was a perfect visual tube inside like a scope, then locking both lengths down to the wood. A little electrical tape between them seals the deal. That was far more effective than trying to make them follow a straight line on the outside. I don't think the copper tube is bored out perfectly, so you kind of have to ignore the outside of the tubes.

Only down side was the dude at Home Depot thought I was a meth cook and gave me a scowl! I thought about reassuring him I was just working with explosives, but then decided not to.
 
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