Loads for the 54 / 1851 question

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garyca

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1 -As I slowly progress towards the traditional side .... I picked up a traditions deerhunter kit in 54 ( call it a practice build ) I'll be using lee real 54 conicals - any of you gentlemen have any load suggestions for me ? As a lefty (right hand disabled) I'm hoping this will work out - before I invest in more traditional kits I want to try this out .... no load data out there that I can find - got plenty of pyrdoex select

2- My beloved traditions 1851 navy has a problem - the screw holding the barrel wedge won't screw all the way in - anybody know if these are metric or standard ??? I want to pick up a tap set and remedy this issue - don't want to send her back because I've got one with a great smooth action and absolutely perfect trigger !! My buddy watched me hit again and again within 6-12 inches from a paper cup set at 110 yards so I'm letting any factory get there hands on this girl !!!

3- How hard can I step on my 1847 Uberti walker ?? I am perplexed the factory says no more than 40 grain loads but I've read of up to 60 being used.


Thanks to this website I am a confirmed cap and ball fiend now - they are a great way to spend an afternoon.
 
OK from MY experience
#2 Most are metric BUT before you try to tap it out see if the screw will go all the way in with the barrel removed as it might be the screw is to long. How far out is it sticking as it may not be a problem..The purpose of the screw is to keep the wedge from coming all the way out when you pull it, however on my "60" it always comes out even when I replaced the screw and wedge.
#3 I usually load my Walker with 45 grains, it shoots just fine. I found it is the only pistol I have the doesn't mind using the can of 2f T7 the my brother gave me. I have loaded it with 60 grains of 3f cause after all IT IS a Walker but I find it is also wasteful in that respect..
 
A poster named pluckit built a Traditions .54 Deer hunter kit and has enjoyed better accuracy with XTP saboted bullets than with patched round balls. Although he hasn't mentioned trying any conicals in it, most of the powder charges seem to be between 70 - 100 grains. Being a fairly light weight rifle, there's going to more felt recoil than if shooting the 240 grain XTP's that his .54 likes. And in one thread someone warned about cracking the wood stock if shooting heavy conicals.
My .50 Deer hunter is nickel with a synthetic stock, and because it likes sabots I haven't shot any conicals with it either. I load 90 grains of Pyrodex P with 240 grain .44 saboted bullets and they shoot accurately to the same point of aim as patched balls.

His threads contain photos of targets with the loads listed:

1. http://www.huntingnet.com/forum/black-powder/361212-i-made-range-today.html

2. http://www.huntingnet.com/forum/black-powder/350495-so-so-maybe-not-so-good-day-range.html

3. http://www.huntingnet.com/forum/black-powder/348622-back-range.html

4. http://www.huntingnet.com/forum/3833129-post39.html
 
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What's the problem with the wedge screw not going all the way in? It doesn't need to. All it does is keep the wedge from falling away.

Walker loads: you can safely fire a Walker with full chamber loads, nearly 60 grains/volume. Accuracy with a load like that will be, well, less than spectacular.
 
Thanks gentlemen - as always you come through - I'll experiment and explore as suggested on the navy - she is a sweet one !!. On the deerhunter 54 I myself noted the thin stock so I won't push her too hard. I was out at the range today with my 1847 Walker - pretty good accuracy with 40 grains Pyrodex P but it went out the window at 50 grains. I've filed a deeper notch for sighting on the hammer but shes still shooting high ( 24 inches or better ) and right ( I'm a lefty ) Biggest problem today was exploed caps clogging up the action - guess I need some of those aftermarket caps from the possibles shop - they got down inside & underneath frame - inside trigger guard plate and one actually flattened in hammer groove causing misfires.
Thanks again for all your advice

PS - now looking at 32 rifle kit and just gotta have one of those 1858 remingtons .... so little time so much powder to burn :D
 
You done went through three guns in one thread and talking bout a fourth the 58. I think you going to get a speeding ticket. :evil:
 
fill the space where the cap falls into with grease, the same stuff that you use over the ball.
 
Most of the time the cap drops off my Dragoon down into the space between the hammer and the frame jamming the pistol and requiring a full take down to fix. If I fill that space between the hammer and frame with grease the primer can't fall down into the action and is easy to fish out. I can't remember where I learned about this trick but I remember it said to use water pump grease. Since I don't have an engine (Model A Ford) that requires me to grease the water pump I just use bore butter or something like it.
Or were you wondering about putting grease over the ball to prevent chain fires?
 
Been at this over 30 years, never heard of anyone using grease in the hammer slot to keep cap fragments out of the action. Most folks just roll the gun to the right while cocking the next round. You may have a serious blowback problem, caused by either a weak mainspring or eroded nipples.
 
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