Loc-Tite the trigger pin in 10/22?

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AWCherry

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So my trusty 10/22 decided to go bolt action on me after a disappointing range trip. The first round of the magazine would fire, then the trigger group would not reset without re-charging the rifle (and ejecting a live round in the process). Having done some research into it, it turns out that it's due to the trigger pivot pin working it's way out. I recently installed a Butler Creek folding stock, and apparently the looser dimensions of the stock allow that to be a very common problem.

My question to the experts is this - is there any danger in using Loc-Tite (blue) to secure the pin in place? I figure that using the blue Loc-Tite will allow the trigger pin to stay in place, but allow it to be removed using a nail set and some light taps with a hammer, if necessary. I can't imagine that securing the pin will affect the action of the rifle, but I just want to be sure. Thanks!
 
Yes, that might work if you don't break some aluminum pounding it out the next time.

You could use your nail set to throw up a small divot on each side of the hole so it can't come out.

Or, you could use some epoxy steel bed and glass bed each side of the stock to make it fit like it should have so it doesn't have room to come out.

That would be my first choice.

Heck, if you want a cheap & dirty fix, I suppose a couple strips of duck tape inside the stock will fill the space and keep the pin centered.

rc
 
Heck, if you want a cheap & dirty fix, I suppose a couple strips of duck tape inside the stock will fill the space and keep the pin centered.

rc

This^^^ only it might be better to get a roll of the aluminum duct tape.
 
Loctite....no hyphen.

I'm a factory rep for Loctite.

The low strength purple 222 or 222ms would be my first choice and the blue 243 (a new formula better suited to non-ferrous metals) would be a close second choice.

Dirty
 
Apologies for my blasphemy!

Since the trigger group housing is primarily plastic, I think that I'll search out some of the purple Loctite. What's the difference between the 222 and 222ms?
 
Is there a specific way to know exactly where to put the tape before putting the trigger group back inside, or is it more of a trial and error kind of deal? And thank you to everyone for the replies, I appreciate everyone's help.
 
Ahhhh, plastic!

Don't use any threadlockers on plastic because the chemistry can stress crack many kinds of plastics faster than you can spit.

It sounds like your're trying to keep a spring pin/straight pin in place and prevent it from sliding out of the trigger housing. Yes?

A small dab of any of the Crazy Glue-type products applied and smeared around with a toothpick sounds like it would work just fine.

Chip
 
Plastic on the newer 10/22, aluminum on the older ones. Were it mine, I'd either tape it in place or find/make a slightly larger pin to snug it up.
 
I use little square of electrical tape on both sides of the trigger housing. Works fine.
 
Is there a specific way to know exactly where to put the tape before putting the trigger group back inside, or is it more of a trial and error kind of deal?
Well, first I'd compare the original stock to the aftermarket version, and figure out exactly where the pin rests.

Then I'd use masking or painter's tape to build up the aftermarket stock, until it was a snug fit.

Then I'd run 500 rounds and call it good, or get malfunctions again and try again.
 
Get thee a Kidd and a set of Kidd pins for the whole trigger group, you'll never go back. Kidd trigger is absolutely the best I've ever pulled. Zero take up and no overtravel and at 1.5# maybe a little light for hunting in some opinions but superb in every other way.
 
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