Looking to become a reloader. Don't know where to start.

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Lee does have a turret kit. Has most of the basic parts that you would need to start loading. Of course, You should check it before you order it to make sure all is there. There not bad presses at all. I cannot really speak for any brand of press as I only have the Lee press. The lever you pull down on will make the ram come up. These are the parts that should be kept clean and greased a little or oiled.

Since your going with the turret, You may want to oil/ grease a bit where the turret plate sits as well since those have little ball bearings in them. Craigslist may be a good place to look for stuff but you can also look on here or other forums that reload and see if anyone is selling something your interested in.

If your gonna buy new, Try FSreloading.com, Titanreloading.com, MidWayUSA.com, or Grafs.com. There all good outfits and good prices. You can also check one called Kempfs.
Sue Kempf uses a Lee Classic Turret herself and is very knowledgeable on that and other presses, too.

Lee makes two turrets, Deluxe and Classic. The Classic turret is superior to the Deluxe turret in several ways. As of a year ago all kits based on the Lee Turrets were based on the Deluxe Turret.

Last time I checked, Craigslist prohibited even telescopic sights and (I think) even stocks. but now the list is somewhat shorter
Partial list of items for sale and services the advertisement of which is not permitted on craigslist:
Weapons and related items, including firearms, ammunition, silencers, pellet/BB guns, tear gas or stun guns.

Lost Sheep
 
Important update: Buy or no?

So, was talking to a friend who mentioned he has a turret press he'd like to sell...

Dillon 650. :eek:

It's definitely out of my league now, but does it seem like something one could grow into?

Says it's new in box and wants 500. msrp is 560. Damn tempted.

We're talking about meeting up today. Anyone object?
 
^
I'd try to calculate in the costs of the six different calibers you propose to load for.. indexing plates or whatever. It could be up to $100 per caliber.. I don't really know.
 
So, was talking to a friend who mentioned he has a turret press he'd like to sell...

Dillon 650.


The Dillon 650 is one heck of a machine.......but it's not a turret press. It's a progressive press. Big difference. A progressive spits out a loaded round with each pull of the handle. Some think they're a little advanced for a beginner, and think that you should learn on single stage. I have never used a progressive personally, so I'm not sure how complicated it is. A turret press is still a single stage press, it just allows you to have all of your dies set up so it's easier to get them into position and you don't have to reset them each time. You still perform each operation individually though.

Welcome to the world of handloading by the way. You have come to the right place for advice. These guys helped me a lot when I first got started. You never stop learning either.
 
A Dillon, like every other progressive, is something that, when it is running great sounds like a Ferrari , but when something hangs up or goes awry, you'll be spending a lot of time trying to figure it out and correcting. If you are not mechanically inclined, or anal in watching your cases get charged, etc., you might want to hold off on a progressive.

I would hate to run off 1000 rounds only to find out that an indeterminate amount got too much powder and another indeterminate amount got too little because I missed something along the way

BTW, I have used both progressive and single stage, including the Dillon. Where I live now, I shoot more shotgun so a single stage in limited space covers rifle and pistol for me
 
...not

Yeah, I hear what all of you are saying on that. After the initial excitement faded I realized that A: it was a progressive, B: didn't fit my KISS and durability guidelines, and C: I sti ll haven't even gotten ABC's manual in the mail yet. Shot him a "thanks but no thanks" and laid out everything I had on here. Told me he had a single stage too and that I was welcome to practice on it. He really is a stand-up guy... and my CHL instructor. :D

And thanks to everyone for the welcome. I've said it before and I'll say many more times; I love this forum! Evey question I've had was always thoroughly answered and the discussions are always informative and friendly. I'm still so new new to everything that I don't have much to contribute so I'm usually the guy asking, but I'm looking forward to being the wise old-hand. Someday... :rolleyes:

Anyway, on the subject of presses, would it damage a progressive to work one load at a time and treat it like a SS turret? Also, for those of you who have contributed thus far and mentioning what you each work with, What do you like about your press? What don't you like? What characteristics make it simple and durable, and what's most likely to fail on it? While my main focus at the moment is on a SS turret, I'd still like to hear about all presses you have worked with, if for no other reason than to help the next newbie reading this.

Thanks again. Happy to be here :)
 
Realize that the "single stage turret" you are most likely considering (Lee) is the only auto-indexing one existent.. you pull the handle three or four times for each cartridge without handling the brass where the "normal" turret presses still require the three or four strokes but also require you to manually index the turret three to four times.. unless you batch them, then you have to handle the brass between each phase just like a SS.
The Lee can be used as a single stage no problem and the cast iron version is very durable.
 
Certaindeaf has it right (post #32). Lee's Turret can be a single stage when you want it to be and do batch processing and it can be do continuous processing (with the autoindexing) much more conveniently than any other turret press on the market.
(edited for brevity)Anyway, on the subject of presses, would it damage a progressive to work one load at a time and treat it like a SS turret? Also, for those of you who have contributed thus far and mentioning what you each work with, What do you like about your press? What don't you like? What characteristics make it simple and durable, and what's most likely to fail on it? While my main focus at the moment is on a SS turret, I'd still like to hear about all presses you have worked with, if for no other reason than to help the next newbie reading this.

Thanks again. Happy to be here :)

Running a progressive as if it were a turret press (or even a single stage) is doable. The only caution I know of is that the forces exerted by the dies on the shell plate/carrier are off-axis of the ram, putting a bending load on it. Of course, the forces on the ram are usually off-axis anyway. (Each die exerts a different amount of force than the others, so there is always a bit of off-centeredness, but if you are only doing one station at a time, it is more promounced.) But the progressives are designed for it on startup and shutdown, so I would not be concerned. Just take some extra effort on keeping the ram clean and lubed.

Good question. Good Luck

Lost sheep
 
You will find the info in the ABCs of Reloading to be very valuable. I also suggest the Lyman manual. I've been loading for over 35 years now and like most others have my own ideas on what works best. I prefer the Hornady LNL AP progressive press over a turret press. I like it because it is fast, has 5 stations, auto advance, and can easily be used as a single stage while learning or for whatever other reason. It is also quick to change from one caliber to another. I still use my 35 year old Rockchucker single stage for rifle but could use the Hornady if I didn't have it. I wouldn't worry about parts as breakage is minimal on good presses and a phone call to the manufacturer will get you a new part within a couple of days at no cost.

As for shotgun, I use PW presses but the majority of shooters at my skeet/trap club use Mec. With the cost of lead shot these days, you don't save much loading 12 Ga over buying factory when on sale. Your real savings is in reloading the smaller guages.

Reloading itself is a great hobby and I find it very relaxing. Depending on calibers that you load, you can save significantly and afford to shoot alot more. The time that it takes to offset the cost of equipment will depend on how much you spend for it, the amount of rounds you shoot weekly, and the type of bullets used (jacket or lead), and calibers you load for. Remember that good equipment will last a lifetime and keep that in mind when looking at prices.
 
I've been handloading pistol ammo on an RCBS Rockchucker since the early 1980s. A single stage press is simple and an "old school" press like the Rockchucker is rugged as an anvil. High power rifle shooters like them for strength/leverage and precision but that's not a factor for me.

I started shooting cowboy action a little over two years ago. I load at least 250 rounds a month and I was spending lots of time at the bench so I purchased a progressive press last year. I know people who started reloading with a progressive press; some of them had no problems. For myself, I found a progressive press to be more demanding of my constant attention even though I was an experienced handloader. Bottom line, I don't recommend progressive presses for beginners.

A friend of mine started reloading and based on several peoples' recommendations he purchased a Lee Classic Turret press. I think that is a wise choice. It is not very expensive and seems reasonably well designed. You have the option of removing the indexing rod which effectively converts the press to single stage operation. Even in "index" mode you have only one case in the press at a time. Pretty easy to keep up with that. I think of the LCT as a "poor man's progressive".
 
The area where EVERY progressive I have ever used or been involved with has had issues always seems to come down to the auto primer feed area -either the primer hangs up and doesn't drop resulting in spilled powder, or it flips upside down and gets loaded backwards or something similar - it happens with every brand, shotgun or metallic and is the one MAJOR area I ALWAYS watch while reloading. Another thing to watch, and it sounds obvious, is the powder hopper (and shot for shotgun shells). You can get going in a rhythm, watching your primer and finished rounds and forget to watch the powder and then you realized you just reloaded a bunch with no powder - but you don't know how many you'll now be pulling.

Again, none of this is rocket science, but it does take attention top detail
 
Sorry I've been gone for so long... I've been reading a lot. :D

I'm really excited about loading my own ammo. I'm really looking forward to the day when I craft my own match grade ammo for my bolt action. I can already tell this will become my new favorite hobby and that I'll probably be an accuracy snob before I die.

Now I haven't quite finished ABC's and Lyman 49, but I have a few questions.

First I should mention that one thing that really caught my interest that I didn't think would is bullet casting. I don't know why, but the process and relative cheapness just strike me as a fun hobby. That said, I know that 1 lb. has 7000 grains, and kind of what to expect as far as yield, but I do need in layman's terms whether soft or hard is better for long range, appropriate use of gas checks, and best place to find casting supplies especially top/hollowpoint- molds, lead thermometers and discount bulk ingots. I already suspect I'll be needing linotype or stereotype but curious which is exactly better for what. I don't want an electric furnace, so what do I need to burn to get to 700 degrees F reliably?

Second, I have a lot of 5.56 and 7.62 military brass that has crimped primers. What exactly do I need to make reloading them as painless as possible, and am I remembering correctly that new primers have to be re-crimped?

Also, What I really need is a complete glossary of terms, videos for each step of casting and reloading, and a shotshell manual as clear and thorough as the lyman 49. I know it's a lot to ask, but the steps are a lot to remember to do in sequence. Can each of you tell me what your step-by step process is from start to finish, particularly the in-between steps of trrimming, deburring, and all the little things in between the big steps of sizing, charging, seating, etc?

I know that's all alot, and I know I'll think of more questions later, but I just want to approach this thoroughly and with proper respect.
Thanks again for all of the help.
 
Casting is just as addictive, if not more so, than handloading. The thing is, you need quiet a bit of spare time to cast. It's not a fast process. I love it though. However I only cast for handguns and have no experience whatsoever with gas checks and such. I'm planning on it though. I want to start casting for .30-30 soon.
 
The only guys I know shooting cast in rifles are doing Schutzen, and those aren't exactly modern high pressure cartridges. YMMV, but to me shooting 308 or 223 at 1100 fps would be a bit underwhelming. FWIW..
 
Hi, Virg1l... I'm new to realoding also. I planned to start in January, and spent the next 3 months reading and selecting equipment. I also recommend the ABCs of Reloading; I read two editions, the 2011 C. Rodney James one, and a 1974 edition edited by Dean Grinnell. (In my opinion the newer edition was padded out with some old articles that are no longer relevant.) I also picked my brother-in-law's brain; he's been a reloader for 20 years or so.

I went with the Lee Classic turret, which is probably more machine than I really need (I only load two calibers, .44 magnum and .357 magnum) but I have a lifelong habit of buying more machine than I really need. My wife has commented on that on several occasions.

I like the Lee because it suits my mode of operation: I did lab work at at one point in my career and learned to do things in batches. So I prime 50 or 100 cases, inspect, drop the powder charges from an RCBS Uniflow, inspect, expand the case mouths, inspect, seat bullets... and inspect. That way if there's a problem I can find it early rather than late.

Good uck, Virg1l - I've had a lot of fun figuring this process out.
 
thanks

I don't expect too much from casting, but I want to know how and have the equipment should the need arise. I also have always liked the idea of building something up to use. I plan to start out loading per the manual, using bought bullets etc. to replicate factory loads I already have. As I progress I want to break out into casting and creating my perfect .308 load, eventually casting the projectiles as well. In time, I want to cast almost every caliber I've listed below. Now, I know this bit isn't as much about reloading and I'm nowhere near there yet, but when I make that load I'm going to be in the market for a good .308 bolt-action to shoot them with. I'm curious what your favorite bolt guns for shooting cast bullets are.

Thanks for that pdf, I'll be reading it soon, but I'm still looking for that manual of shotshell loading (lyman 49th edition style) and something with a glossary for all things reloading.

To clarify, do I need to re-crimp militaryr brass to re-use it, or can I leave it uncrimped. Is that brass even still viable and if so, what tools do I need and why. (links please)

You guys have all been a tremendous help, thanks again.:)
 
The only guys I know shooting cast in rifles are doing Schutzen, and those aren't exactly modern high pressure cartridges. YMMV, but to me shooting 308 or 223 at 1100 fps would be a bit underwhelming. FWIW..
If you do it right, you can drive a GC'd lead slug to around 2800 and paper patched to around 3300 accurately. I think you'd certainly blow a .308 up trying to drive a 200+gr slug to those velocities so of course you'd have to use a lighter bullet to achieve those speeds.
 
I would suggest a mentor if you can find one. My brother and 2 good friends are reloaders so I helped them for awhile before I invested in my own equipment. My equipment is all better than theirs bcause I was able to get really nice stuff and benefitted from their mistakes. I never stop learning and will do it differently in the future.
 
You look like you're diving into a LOT of reloading (given all the calibers you've listed). What's your budget? IF you are the mechanical type, I don't see a problem getting a progressive and SS right off the bat. I bought a progressive and was wanting a SS soon after. You can probably trim a few hundred off your startup costs by cutting back the number of calibers you are loading for.
Also, I didn't catch it: What is your monthly round count? That will play a big part in the equipment that would be best for you.
 
answers

Again sorry I haven't posted as much, I've been working. Got more coming up so I'll reply when I can.

Altitude: Yeah, I really am diving into it, I'm just really excited since just from reading this seems like my perfect hobby. The calibers I listed are what I hope to be working on when it's all said and done. My "prority" cartridges are .38/+P to start with as reccomended, .40sw, and .308.

Next up would be .223, but I have a lot more 5.56 brass that I haven't figured out/ heard a definite yes/no as to whether a: i can use 5.56 brass to load .223, b: whether I have to recrimp 5.56 primers for them to safely function or if it's possible to remove/trim crimps on 5.56. Same questions for .308/7.62x51

Monthly round count up until a few months ago was probably averaging 2-300 of the above plus 12g. I really do shoot a lot... It's my golf ;) That said, I've cut back a decent amount, I can't give a specific number because I really don't know, but I know I'd be set for a long time with a turret but not a progressive, if you catch my drift.

As far as budget... I'm not putting a figure on it. As I view the tools/equipment as a long time investment/commitment. The question is not"what can I afford," it's "how much am I going to have to save to get what will work for me." Thankfully, I've saved up a good amount already, and I'm working to cut prices by using craigslist or whatever gets cheap equipment. Speaking of, if anyone here has a turret press collecting dust pm me... yes I know it's a long shot.:rolleyes:

Sniper: You'd think a mentor would be easy to find in Texas. Closest I've gotten is a friend of a friend who I've never met and the middle-man is deployed, so unless a reloading leprechaun leads me to a busy workbench, it'll be a while.

Certaindeaf: This brings up a question. What would generally be considered the minimum effective velocity of a .308? Speed doesn't matter as much as accuracy to me. I reiterate that it's all a little ways off, but I'm expecting a .308 or some caliber that takes a .308 diameter bullet to become my favorite "accuracy load," you know?

Anyway, I'm looking at 3 12hr shifts in a row starting tonight, so If I can I'll pop in, otherwise expect more in depth replies sunday eveningish. Thanks again to all.
 
also...

Centurion, happy to see you using this. One thing I want to insist upon that these guys recommended are the books "ABC"S of reloading" and" Lyman 49th manual" mentioned in the first few posts. I'm almost done with both of them and can say they are worth their weight in gold. I'd go ahead and buy them and get started highlighting.
 
You got a smartphone? You can get a craigslist app and save a few searches so it tells you when reloading equipment is listed in your area. It beats having to run the searches over and over.
A note about tumblers. Have a look at rotary tumblers (Thumler brand name is one of the better prices). They are WAY more quiet and don't spew dust if you're tumbling indoors. I just bought one for my Dad and was tempted to keep it for myself.
 
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