Loose primer pockets - Dangerous?

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The easiest way to determine if the pockets have expanded beyond use is to measure them as you inspect them for other issues. However, resistance isn't the only factor to judge, as leaks can contribute to a total blow out. It doesn't take long to measure a pocket, and considering the risk involved by using those with dangerous issues, one would want to incorporate such steps into their reloading process as a matter of safety protocol.

Also, because of the leverage produced by presses and priming tools, it is easy to misjudge just how loose they may actually be. Obviously, if you can seat a primer with your thumb, they are no doubt unusable. Additionally, if you seat a primer .004" .006" below the case head, and it then springs back or simply won't stay put, it's obvious that brass is done. But there is the problem with pockets that are damaged or out of round that have created a risk of leaking too. I'll address that in more detail below.

In this respect, I load for a few high pressure cartridges, like .357 mag, 44 mag, 7mm RM, .270 win and so on. Anyway, back in my earlier years of reloading, I often had difficulty judging just how much pressure was considered as good or bad pockets, so I consulted a friend of mine who had created a tool to measure the actual pressure that was being exerted on the primer during seating. As it turned out, and I don't recall the actual foot pounds, but it was clear that what I thought of as loose, was in fact more than sufficient to seal under full pressure loads. That questionable brass back then that I had resistance measured on, included 44 mag, .357 mag ( H110 ( 296 loads) and 270 win., all were full tilt loads. The questionable bottle necks lived to see several more loadings before developing incipient head separations, the pockets never failed. As for the magnum pistol brass, it went on to live for many more runs before developing mouth splits, not pocket failure, before being retired. I have since developed a better feel for pocket resistance, and have really never experienced a pocket failure per say. The closest thing to a pocket failure I've ever experienced to date has been so minimal, that it required extremely close inspection to spot the leakage, and nothing was visible on the bolt faces. But even a small leak can lead to catastrophic primer failures, thus damaging the firearm and more importantly, the risk of serious injury.

For those who care to take the time, it is quite simple to test how much pressure the pocket and seated primer will hold. First it is necessary to determine what PSI represents a good pocket. This test is performed when the case is secured in the shell holder, and while in the press to prevent primers from becoming projectiles if they blow out. Once this has been done and assuming the primer stayed put, then just put some baby powder around the rim of the seated primer and watch for obvious leaks. Although I've never taken it this extreme, I have heard of it being done before. I stick to the feel I've developed for good and bad pockets, too much trouble for me. But for anyone interested, I'll talk to my friend and find out what he has determined to be the magic number.

I am a major stickler for safety, and even a bit OCD according to some who have talked shop with me. So I assure you I would never use brass that is of questionable integrity, ever.

GS
 
As a newer reloader , I have just been throwing them out if they seat with little or no resistance since reading this thread. I'm very glad I asked the question here. So far, I've thrown about 35 away out of 1200 and all have been Federal. Over time, I may develop the knack for determining the minimum pressure allowed to seat the primer. Until then, in the trash it goes.

It seems to me, there should be a precision device for deciding if a pocket is no longer viable. As simple as a "go" "no go" gauge.

If the precision ground "no go" rod fits into the pocket, its too big.

Maybe it isnt that easy, but it seems like it should be doable.
 
That tool doesn't tell you if the pockets are to loose. It tells you if you've swaged crimped pockets enough.
 
"That tool doesn't tell you if the pockets are to loose. It tells you if you've swaged crimped pockets enough."

Thanks for the response. Your statement appears to be contrary to their claim from the web site:

"One side of this gauge is the "go" side which quickly tells you the depth of a primer pocket, whether any crimp is properly removed, and whether the primer pocket is loose.

If it feels loose on the "go" side, use the other end of the tool, the "no go" side, to test to see if the primer pocket is too loose to hold a primer. If the no-go slides into the pocket, then you know to junk that brass before it creates the mess that a missing primer can cause."

Do you believe this isnt true or they are not clear in their description? I would like to know before I order one! I almost ordered one this evening.

Thanks, I appreciate it
 
"That tool doesn't tell you if the pockets are to loose. It tells you if you've swaged crimped pockets enough."

Thanks for the response. Your statement appears to be contrary to their claim from the web site:

"One side of this gauge is the "go" side which quickly tells you the depth of a primer pocket, whether any crimp is properly removed, and whether the primer pocket is loose.

If it feels loose on the "go" side, use the other end of the tool, the "no go" side, to test to see if the primer pocket is too loose to hold a primer. If the no-go slides into the pocket, then you know to junk that brass before it creates the mess that a missing primer can cause."

Do you believe this isnt true or they are not clear in their description? I would like to know before I order one! I almost ordered one this evening.

Thanks, I appreciate it
Thats not exactly the one that I have but for the $10, I'm considering buying one to compare to the one I have. If they say say it'll determine a loose pocket, then why not.
 
Tell you what, I'll order one up and provide a review for the forum. I have learned a ton here and have yet to contribute much of anything useful :). I just ran into another Federal case that had a loose pocket. I have some that need to have the crimp removed, and some pockets that are just like new. I can let you all know if it works for me or not.

I may be finally fixin to earn my keep :)
 
Warning: $10.99 to ship that little thing... Ordered it anyway. Not very happy and I haven't even got it yet :).
 
Review as promised

I ordered this tool from Ballistic Tools.

http://ballistictools.com/store/swage-gage-small-primer-pocket

I spent about $10.00 + $10.00 shipping.

The machine work, workmanship and material of this tool appears to me to be excellent. Click the link above for a picture and description of the tool.

It arrived via UPS and was packaged in a well prepared box, full of newspaper and the tool, along with a business card from Ballistic tools.

The primers being used to determine that the primer pockets would seat were Remington 7.5 SRP in .223/5.56 brass of various manufacture. Primers were seated with a Hornady hand priming tool.

I had a chance to use it today after decapping and resizing some cases and thought I would provide a thread with some of my experience with it.

First, I used the gauge on a Federal case that IMHO has an enlarged primer pocket. This is only my opinion, but I was concerned when seating primers in this case as I felt nearly no resistance when seating. The "Go" side of the tool slid right into the pocket as expected. It was a noticeably lose fit. The "No Go" side of the tool slid about 1/2 way into the pocket and caused enough friction to easily turn it upside down and it would not come out. I expected it to go all the way in. It was easily removed with a very minor tug.

The next case was also a Federal and a known good case that the primer had a good feel to it and was also known to be fired only one time previously. Again, the "Go" side slid in fine with no friction. It had slightly less slop that the previous case. The "No GO" would not go into the pocket any appreciable amount.

The next case was a Lake City 5.56 with the crimp still in tact. The "Go" gauge went into the pocket not unlike the previous case. Maybe a little friction detected. This was not as expected. The "No Go" gauge had no hope of sliding in.

The last case tested was a once fired Lake City 5.56 with the crimp removed using a Lyman hand reaming tool. The case behaved exactly like the good Federal case with the "Go" gauge going in and the "No Go" not going in.

Conclusion: This tool works for what I wanted, to detect cases with lose primer pockets. Maybe not exactly as I expected, but it will work fine. It is possible that my requirements are somewhat more stringent compared to the tools measurements. In a blind test, I took a hand full of known good brass and the one Federal case and I could pick the bad case out of the rest in less than a minute.

However, IMHO it does little to help detect whether a crimp has been completely removed. Maybe I will be able to use it for this purpose after more experience. My review of this tool may change as I get more experience using the tool. As it turns out, I have a primer pocket uniforming tool to detect when more work needs to be done to remove the crimp.

This tool will be used to keep me from fooling around with brass that has lose primer pockets.

Hope this is useful.
 
Hey,
Thanks for trying to earn your keep. I need to do that also. It's hard around here though, these guys really know their stuff..PH
 
you can over pressure cartridges real easy in .223 because its a little different from 5.56 without blowing you self up. scrap the brass and buy some virgin cases.
 
As a newer reloader , I have just been throwing them out if they seat with little or no resistance since reading this thread. I'm very glad I asked the question here. So far, I've thrown about 35 away out of 1200 and all have been Federal. Over time, I may develop the knack for determining the minimum pressure allowed to seat the primer. Until then, in the trash it goes.

It seems to me, there should be a precision device for deciding if a pocket is no longer viable. As simple as a "go" "no go" gauge.

If the precision ground "no go" rod fits into the pocket, its too big.

Maybe it isnt that easy, but it seems like it should be doable.
Hey,
Do you guys that chunk the ones that seat to easily just throw out the brand new shiny primer also?

You do know it's possible to deprime a live primer right? I don't know if it's a no no but Ive had to do it a few times. I cant throw away a good primer. (that's pretty stupid I know, risking my eyesight for half a cent)
 
Hey PH,

Being tighter than a fiddler's fart, I pop the primer out and reuse it! I have a decapping only die that I use for such penny pinching operations.
 
I don't know that I would describe myself in that way, but I reuse them as well. :)
 
If there is any doubt that the primer can fall out SCRAP THE CASE!

If the primer falls into any working mechanism within the firearm (any firearm) and that mechanism moves it can and will go off with potentially catastrophic results.

I speak from experience. I had a primer fall out into the mechanism of a pump shotgun. As is was pumping the gun to figure out why it was "sticky" the primer went off sending pieces of the stock between my legs. :eek: A compressed primer does have power.
 
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