1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Lousy Taurus Snubbie Trigger- Help!

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing and Repairs' started by Sox, Mar 15, 2003.

Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
  1. Sox

    Sox Member

    Dec 29, 2002
    Atlanta, GA
    Well, I jumped on the Taurus Total Titanium .32 H&R magnum bandwagon today. Noticed during dryfiring heavy and gritty pull. What's weird is it feels particularily heavy on only two cylinders. This is also apparent with rotation of cylinder, while in battery, with the hammer pulled back just a bit to "unlock" it. So, my question is- is this an easy fix? Or a major problem. What does it sound like? Truth to be told the entire action could use a going over. For example the hammer is gritty when pulled back by the thumb. It doesn't look like anything is bent. The cylinder rotates freely when swung out. The ejector rod is not loose. also, the cylinder latch seems to operate a little rough. i.e. it's operation seems a little sluggish when the cylinder is closed. Sometimes requires a little push to push as if the spring is weak. Thanks for your ideas. Do you think it is simply an issue of rough finishing and would smooth out with use? I really don't want to send it out to the factory. The other option is letting my local smith-who did a fantastic job on my M60 work on this one. Thanks guys.:p
  2. Greg G

    Greg G Member

    Dec 28, 2002
    I sent a Model 85CH back to them for a trigger job in which they put Wolff springs in it and smoothed the action. The result was a lighter smoother DA pull with reliable ignition. This was 3 or 4 years ago and I don't remember the cost.
  3. bountyhunter

    bountyhunter member

    Jan 8, 2003
    Taurus guns are notorious for rough gritty triggers (every new one I've pulled had it). They use coil mainsprings that "stack" as they are compressed which makes the pull feel uneven and will cause light strike misfires. The rougness you describe sounds like the "hand" was not properly fitted to the star blocks. Normally, the star edges that mate with the hand have to be trimmed a little to get smooth action as well as tight lockup.

    I assume you checked the barrel cylinder gap to make sure the cylinder is not dragging on the forcing cone?

    Anyway, a competent smith can probably improve it considerably. I cringe when people have to pay gunsmiths to finish the work the maker should have done in the first place..... but it is frequently less costly than sending back to the maker considering shipping, time, and hassle factor. A good smith should be able to do it in an hour or less so it shouldn't cost more than maybe $50.
  4. dance varmint

    dance varmint Member

    Jan 17, 2003
    Where it's Quality, not Quantity
    I have done the following myself to improve my Taurus:

    Filed the hammer-lock-retaining pin down flush with the hammer, so it would not drag on the sideplate.

    Inserted a .004inch endshake washer (made by Power Custom for S&W K+L frames, sold by Brownell's) in the cylinder, after resizing the washer with a dremel. Eliminated any barrel-cylinder drag.

    Installed .004inch washers (designed for Ruger 10/22 trigger) on both sides of the hammer, eliminating sideplay.

    Polished internals with fine emery paper, including mainspring plunger.

    Installed lighter Wolff trigger spring.

    That made everything much better. However, the Wolff reduce power mainspring gave me failures so the stock spring is back in.
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.

Share This Page