M1 garand price

[Bill50]

I can't post pictures of someone else's gun or serial numbers online.

The end of barrel has normal pitting. The outside of the barrel near the chamber has deep pitting. It reminds me of a small surface weld that was bubbly and started to rust. If it were reblued, you would still see it had a rusting problem.

Strangely, the bore looks fine.

 

[Orlando]

Then dont ask for a estimate of value.
There is only one serial number on a Garand and it is on the receiver heel. The rest are drawing numbers.

 

[Reloadron]

Then dont ask for a estimate of value.
There is only one serial number on a Garand and it is on the receiver heel. The rest are drawing numbers.

Without a serial number and images it is impossible to rate a gun. Even a serial number with the last three digits masked is useful and pictures are a must. as your deep or light pitting may look nothing like what I call deep or light pitting. The drawing numbers for the parts are also needed to see if the correct part revisions are on the rifle.

Ron

Ron

 

[agtman]

Agree.

The fear of some bad consequence happening from posting pics of the serial number and the drawing numbers on the various parts is way overrated. In fact, pics of M1 receivers and their serial numbers are so numerous on the various gun boards as to make this fear a nonissue.

 

[jad0110]

An original, untouched and never re-conditioned 1942 SA Garand is a rare bird indeed. Any WW2 manufactured Garand, Springfield of Winchester, can almost be classified as a non-existent item!

Could it also be that later someone put together a rifle using all Springfield parts, with drawing numbered parts that match the date range for the receiver?

I presume that is the case with my Springfield M1. I'd be tickled though if it were completely or extremely close to original, but I know that isn't likely. It is 100% Springfield, the barrel dates to October 1940 and receiver drawing number puts the receiver at January 1941. All of the other drawing numbers are the correct vintage (even the follower rod is the correct style), with the exception of the operating rod catch (I have the original, it was cracked at the cross pin hole when I acquired it), and perhaps the rear sight assembly (I'm thinking it is correct though) and the stock.

And there are no importation marks on this rifle.

I'll have to look at the operating rod to see if it has the cutout or not ...

 

[jad0110]

Okay, here's a picture of the operating rod. Uncut.

Interesting ...

 

[Neo-Luddite]

If your pal is having it checked, having parts replaced, just make sure to keep whatever he has taken off for historical purposes later. If he's looking to get it shootable I think that's a great idea. BUT for what it's worth, have him hold off on any plans to re-park the rifle or do aggressive cleaning on the metal or wood. I remember giving in to my own temptation and (still) regretting the results of the repark. It's still my favorite 25 years later, but it would have been better to have left well enough alone. Plenty of oil and gentle cleaning w/ 0000 steel wool will remove the surface rust. Also--better safe than sorry with the barrel--good to replace it!

 

[Orlando]

jad0110
The rear sight on our rifle is not correct . It should be the earlier flush nut not lock bar. Also the handguard clip would be forged/grooved not stamped

 

[tark]

And that glossy finish on the stock doesn't look original. Wouldn't be surprised if the cartousch has been removed.

 

[jad0110]

I was pretty sure the stock wasn't correct, and yes, it is too glossy. The cartousch is just barely visible. I'd like to pick up a different stock for it sometime.

Wasn't certain on the rear sight, but now I know. I may replace it at some point just to make it a bit more authentic.

 

[Orlando]

Flush nut sights will run around $600

 

[jad0110]

^^^ Yeah, on second thought, the sights on it work fine !

My apologies to the OP not trying to hijack his tread ... any recommends on where I could find a more suitable stock?

 

[Orlando]

Well SA/GHS stocks in very good condition with cartouches run $700-$800

 

[Dave P]

Jad, that is a beautiful stock - do not swap it out!

 

[jad0110]

Been a while since I logged in.

The issue I believe I'm having is a trigger guard to stock lock up problem. I've tried another trigger guard and though it might have helped a little, the action frequently unlocks from the stock during firing. So I'm thinking the trigger guard locking lug recesses in the stock may be worn.

I won't ditch the stock, it does look nice. But I may need to source a replacement. A '41 vintage SA stock is likely almost impossible to find and pricey, as another poster states. But a SA stamped surplus stock would be nice.

Any ideas on where I can track one down?

I've check out CMP, ammogarand.com, thecollectorsource.com, buymilsup.com, Dupage Trading Co, etc.

 

[Orlando]

As I have said before your stock is probably worn and compressed. The wood will compress where the trigger housing and reciver sets. If you remove both parts and look at the stock you will probably see indentations from these parts.
Flat bottom on the trigger guard lugs will also have a affect on lock up
Here is a picture of a stock/guard that jhas good lock up. The gaurd stops hard a good distance form close (see pic) It must be pushed the rest of the way closed with alot of force to get it to close
Not sure what you mean buy a SA surplus stock?????

 

[Reloadron]

To add to Orlando's post the trigger guard should stop and offer resistance about 3/4" before it locks:


Additionally if the stock is loose a few strips of for example a walnut veneer can be glued to the stock where shown below. To see it that would help insert a few strips of business card stock. Finally look closely at the pin which secures the trigger guard to the trigger housing, making sure the holes are not elongated or worn.



Ron

 

[Bill50]

Un-hijacking.

I gave him the barrel and receiver back to take to the gunsmith. He said he asked around about whether I was right that I couldn't rebarrel it myself if he ordered a barrel. He confirmed that only a gunsmith with correct tools could do it. He was probably hoping I could get it fixed up for free.

The stock and small parts are put away in my apartment. Metals are in motor oil. The stock was scrubbed on the inside with a toothbrush to remove sand.

He said he's waiting for the money to pay for the rebarrel. When he gets it rebarrelled or a gunsmith says it's safe to shoot, I'll hit the metal with hoppedans apply a light coat of oil.

 

[stonecutter2]

Un-hijacking.

I gave him the barrel and receiver back to take to the gunsmith. He said he asked around about whether I was right that I couldn't rebarrel it myself if he ordered a barrel. He confirmed that only a gunsmith with correct tools could do it. He was probably hoping I could get it fixed up for free.

The stock and small parts are put away in my apartment. Metals are in motor oil. The stock was scrubbed on the inside with a toothbrush to remove sand.

He said he's waiting for the money to pay for the rebarrel. When he gets it rebarrelled or a gunsmith says it's safe to shoot, I'll hit the metal with hoppedans apply a light coat of oil.

Did he ever confirm it really needs a rebarrel?

Is the rust really that severe?

 

[stonecutter2]

Could it also be that later someone put together a rifle using all Springfield parts, with drawing numbered parts that match the date range for the receiver?

Yep, certainly can be. People refer to these as "correct" rifles rather than "original."

In fact, even if a Garand was 100% original and last used by the paratrooper who dropped into Normandy on D-Day, yet somehow miraculously retained all of its original parts, it would still only be a "correct" rifle, unless there is some kind of provenance or proof to the claim.

One cannot provably claim a rifle is "original" unless there is some affadavit or other proof from said paratrooper that "this rifle, XXXXXX, was mine, i dropped into Normandy with it, never fired it or had any part replaced on it, then brought it home with me and oiled it every year on D-Day." Having bring back papers for said rifle would probably also be key.