m1 garand stock, and a couple questions

[brian923]

hey guys, wanted to ask a couple garand questions.

first off, i was wondering if anyone out there has seen the synthetic ram line m1 garand replacment stocks, yet alone have one. i was wanting to know if there were worth the money, if the fit and finish were good, and if they make any differeance from an origonal wood stock. maybe save a little weight??

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=852114

second, how would you guys preffer to scope yours...., with a rear sight mounted scope base, or with a scout type (handgaurd) mount. what would be the advantage, disadvantages to the two mounts.

third, was thinking about changing out the barrel. would this be something that is doable to the home/hobbiest gunsmith, or should this be left to a professional. i do have some rifle knowledge, and am good with handtools.

forth, would having the barrel bored and sleaved be a consoiderable option. (was brought up to me by someone at cabelas, but didnt know if it were possilbe with a high pressure cartridge) or would having the barrel replaced be a more consevable change. (if barrel is changed, it will remain a 30-06)

since were asking questions..... whats a good load to start out with for the m1. i am aware of the pressure curves that the m1 must be run in in order to not self destruct. i am thinking of using some 150 grn, ornady sst's and imr 4046. i have on hand right now, h4895, and varget. just wanting to know a good starting point for these powders, and what works for you guys.


thanks guys, for all the input. brian.

 

[coosbaycreep]

I put one of those synthetic stocks on my M1 because I was too cheap to buy a wood one. It fit just fine with no mods. The only thing is the band on the handguard won't close enough to fit the sling on there anymore, but that's not a big deal to me.

It's considerably lighter than a wood stock as well, so you'll notice a little more recoil when shooting it too, but not bad.

 

[dmazur]

I understand the MPI stocks are much higher quality than the Ram-lines, and for $300 (you do the final fit and finishing) they are pretty expensive. As the fit of the stock is so critical to reliable functioning of the Garand, especially around the trigger, I'm not sure I'd trust a plastic Ram-line.

The traditional WW-II sniper type scope mount is an offset mount, which is required for use of the en-bloc clips. You can fit a leather cheek pad to permit an offset cheek weld. POA and POI are going to cross at some distance, so sighting in is a challenge. Unless you are trying for authenticity, I would recommend a scout mount with a long eye relief scope. These mounts replace the rear handguard and do not involve drilling the rifle or stock. Also, they permit use of the iron sights when the scope is removed.

If you are thinking of changing the barrel, you should read "The M1 Garand Complete Assembly Guide". This book covers the M1 thoroughly, including the problems of indexing when replacing a barrel. It takes more than hand tools. This isn't like a 10/22 or AR-15 barrel.

I don't know of anyone that would try to sleeve a Garand barrel. There are plenty of sources for new barrels, so the machining for the gas cylinder splines, rear handguard, barrel profile etc. are well known.

I use 46 gr of Varget with Hornady 150gr FMJ/BT (#3037), together with an adjustable gas cylinder lock screw (McCann). With the correct insert screw, this provides reliable cycling without battering the heel of the receiver.

Basically, the Garand is what it is. While there were attempts to "sporterize" it immediately following WWII, that was a different era. Returning soldiers were impressed with semi-autos and these were scarce on the ground in sporting rifle form. Now you have the Benelli R1, Browning BAR and Remington 750 to choose from. All of these are far better in a hunting role than a modified Garand.

(I put a scout mount and an Eotech on my Garand...and while I toy with the idea of using it for deer hunting, the Ruger #1 or .44 carbine always wins. )