m1 garand
- Thread starter chriso
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How good a deal it is, depends on what condition it's in, and whether or not it's been heavily rebuilt. The army re-arsenaled a ton of war era rifles with lots of new parts, etc. These are generally what the CMP considers anything from rack grade through service grade. The muzzle and throat erosion of the barrel, and the correctness of the barrel (is it from the same time period as the receiver,) as well as the condition of the stock, and whether or not it's USGI walnut, or a birch replacement all contribute to whether it's a good deal.
You should go to the CMP M1 rifle sales page and read a description of their grading system, and see what the prices for those guns are. You are paying more than a service grade, and less than a correct grade. If the one you're buying qualifies as a "racker" then you're overpaying compared to the CMP. But then a lot of people don't want to jump through the hoops CMP requires for buying. So those folks will pay about 50% more than CMP prices. It's very hard to say.
If what you're buying turns out to be a correct grade WW2... Then yes, it's an incredible steal. Do some research.
You should go to the CMP M1 rifle sales page and read a description of their grading system, and see what the prices for those guns are. You are paying more than a service grade, and less than a correct grade. If the one you're buying qualifies as a "racker" then you're overpaying compared to the CMP. But then a lot of people don't want to jump through the hoops CMP requires for buying. So those folks will pay about 50% more than CMP prices. It's very hard to say.
If what you're buying turns out to be a correct grade WW2... Then yes, it's an incredible steal. Do some research.
If all the marked parts are SA, and have drawing numbers from around the date of manufacture of the rifle, AND the barrel shows muzzle wear of less than 2 and throat erosion less than 3, then it is likely correct. If so, yeah, good deal.
P-32
Member
Matching numbers? This sends a big red flag up the old flag pole. Since you know what year the reciever was made, pull the op rod back and look at the date on the side of the barrel where the op rod covers up when the bolts closed.
dmazur
Member
I have one of the Springfield Armory Inc. Garands, serial number that's in the 7,000,000 range. The receiver is marked "U.S. Rifle / Cal .30 M1 / Springfield Armory / <serial number>" There is no indication of "Inc." on this one.
It has one of the cast Australian receivers, not a forged one like an original, so there is no doubt that it's a copy.
It has a Boyd's stock (judging by the thickness of the grip) and a new barrel. The rest of the parts are GI, not Springfield Armory Inc. manufacture.
Yes, I put an Amega Ranges mini scout mount on it. I understand Fulton Armory and CMP both sell the same item, but CMP has their name on theirs. I saved the rear handguard so I can restore it to "original", but as it has NM sights, I can't use it for JC Garand matches anyway. It's just for fun.
The Eotech sight has a 1 MOA dot and works quite well at 200 yds. It comes off easily and has good return-to-zero. The iron sights are visible down the groove in the mini scout mount.
Also, the muzzle brake does significantly cut recoil, and is also reversible. It just replaces the standard gas cylinder lock.
What isn't visible is the adjustable gas plug. This lets you use standard or reloaded .30-06 ammunition in a Garand without bending the op rod. (You start with it wide open, then adjust smaller until the rifle just functions reliably. You need to do this every time you change loads.)
Right now, CMP has surplus Greek .30-06 ammo that is safe for Garands. It's available in 20 rd boxes or 8 rd clips. Price is good, for now, but demand is up. If you are going to shoot your Garand a lot, you might get a couple cases.
Here's a useful link that shows how to field strip a Garand:
http://www.surplusrifle.com/garand/rifledisassembly/index.asp
Replacement stocks for Garands are available, but as the dimensions affect trigger group functioning, "do-it-yourself" can be tricky. Dean's Guns Restorations has really nice stocks available in a variety of woods, or laminated, which make a Garand look like a show car. I left mine in walnut, and am working on building a set of nicks and dings such as your original probably has. (
)
Good luck with your Garand. As you have an original, I'm envious.
It has one of the cast Australian receivers, not a forged one like an original, so there is no doubt that it's a copy.
It has a Boyd's stock (judging by the thickness of the grip) and a new barrel. The rest of the parts are GI, not Springfield Armory Inc. manufacture.
Yes, I put an Amega Ranges mini scout mount on it. I understand Fulton Armory and CMP both sell the same item, but CMP has their name on theirs. I saved the rear handguard so I can restore it to "original", but as it has NM sights, I can't use it for JC Garand matches anyway. It's just for fun.
The Eotech sight has a 1 MOA dot and works quite well at 200 yds. It comes off easily and has good return-to-zero. The iron sights are visible down the groove in the mini scout mount.
Also, the muzzle brake does significantly cut recoil, and is also reversible. It just replaces the standard gas cylinder lock.
What isn't visible is the adjustable gas plug. This lets you use standard or reloaded .30-06 ammunition in a Garand without bending the op rod. (You start with it wide open, then adjust smaller until the rifle just functions reliably. You need to do this every time you change loads.)
Right now, CMP has surplus Greek .30-06 ammo that is safe for Garands. It's available in 20 rd boxes or 8 rd clips. Price is good, for now, but demand is up. If you are going to shoot your Garand a lot, you might get a couple cases.
Here's a useful link that shows how to field strip a Garand:
http://www.surplusrifle.com/garand/rifledisassembly/index.asp
Replacement stocks for Garands are available, but as the dimensions affect trigger group functioning, "do-it-yourself" can be tricky. Dean's Guns Restorations has really nice stocks available in a variety of woods, or laminated, which make a Garand look like a show car. I left mine in walnut, and am working on building a set of nicks and dings such as your original probably has. (
)Good luck with your Garand. As you have an original, I'm envious.
As for "qualifying marksmanship activity" as a requirement to buy from the CMP, it can be a lot easier than most people realize.
For the longest time I thought you have to shoot in a formal, NRA sanctioned match, and get a formal record of participation signed by a formal Match Director. Sounds like a lot of hoops and humiliation, so I never got around to it.
Or you have to be handicapped, with a doctor's note: not me.
Or elderly: nope.
Or former military, or a LEO. I don't qualify.
Or have a concealed carry permit. I live in Maryland, and I don't make large financial contributions to Democrat politicians.
Then I saw the bit about the C&R FFL and my heart soared like the eagle! Or something. Anyway, I sent off for my C&R application form, even though I know that means "They" will mark my house with a giant red X on "Their" Big Map.
I was about to send it in, when I noticed this:
http://www.odcmp.com/Forms/marksmanship.pdf
I just printed that out, put it on a clipboard, and headed to the range. I went up to the Rangemaster, and asked him to keep an eye on me while I shot, and please sign off on the form. I left the form on the clipboard, along with a pen, on the table behind my firing position, and just relaxed did some shooting like normal. Twenty/thirty minutes later, he got my attention to show me he was signing the form, and
That was all it took!
I didn't even have to put myself on the New World Order's Secret Master List of Gun Nuts. (Although they probably get updates from the CMP...)
For the longest time I thought you have to shoot in a formal, NRA sanctioned match, and get a formal record of participation signed by a formal Match Director. Sounds like a lot of hoops and humiliation, so I never got around to it.
Or you have to be handicapped, with a doctor's note: not me.
Or elderly: nope.
Or former military, or a LEO. I don't qualify.
Or have a concealed carry permit. I live in Maryland, and I don't make large financial contributions to Democrat politicians.
Then I saw the bit about the C&R FFL and my heart soared like the eagle! Or something. Anyway, I sent off for my C&R application form, even though I know that means "They" will mark my house with a giant red X on "Their" Big Map.
I was about to send it in, when I noticed this:
http://www.odcmp.com/Forms/marksmanship.pdf
I just printed that out, put it on a clipboard, and headed to the range. I went up to the Rangemaster, and asked him to keep an eye on me while I shot, and please sign off on the form. I left the form on the clipboard, along with a pen, on the table behind my firing position, and just relaxed did some shooting like normal. Twenty/thirty minutes later, he got my attention to show me he was signing the form, and
That was all it took!
I didn't even have to put myself on the New World Order's Secret Master List of Gun Nuts. (Although they probably get updates from the CMP...)
Neo-Luddite
Member
chriso - Welcome to cult of the Garand. Everyone involved has strong opinions on everything.
The best thing you can do to start is get a copy of the original field manual for the weapon (search online; it's around in .pdf format for free download if you look).
The Garand cosmos is a universe of TOO MUCH info to take in at once.
Start with the G.I. field manual. Take the rifle apart. Put it back together. Repeat. Enjoy.
The best thing you can do to start is get a copy of the original field manual for the weapon (search online; it's around in .pdf format for free download if you look).
The Garand cosmos is a universe of TOO MUCH info to take in at once.
Start with the G.I. field manual. Take the rifle apart. Put it back together. Repeat. Enjoy.
GarandOwner
Member
You are incorrect, they say Springfield Armory just like the "original" ones. Also the receiver and barrel are the only new parts, all the rest are GI.
Instead of refinishing the stock you might want to buy a new wood one, that way it will look nice and you wont take the collector value away from the original stock.
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