M1 gas lock too tight

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DWH

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Wanted to take the handgaurds off my new service grade garand to clean up the wood, but I can't get the gas cylinder lock loose. I tried soaking it for a while, cranking w/ big pliers, rubber mallet, but I just can't get it to budge. Any suggestions?
 
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Fulton Armory, I believe, sells a gas lock wrench. They are around $15. IIRC. I have one for my M1A, they work really well. When reinstalling the lock I go hand tight and then just a bit more. They are not supposed to be that tight. You are supposed to be able to remove them in the field, without tools, for cleaning. Most people overtighten them. Hope this helps.
 
A T handle, 6" extension, and a large Phillips socket will remove the toughest gas cylinder lock screw but you will still need to chuck the barrel into a vise using rubber jaw pads and you cannot gorilla tighten the vice down.
Just snug up the barrel/gas cylinder in the vice at the junction of the gas cylinder ring and make it tight enough that it doesn't shift around and use the T handle/Phillips assembly to pop the screw loose.HTH
 
A chamber cleaning combination tool ( There are two different types)
most common is the one with the chamber brush. The screw driver
on one type fits the gas cyclinder plug. Be careful you use the screw
driver that fits as the other will not work!
 
I'm not talking about the plug, I'm talking about the gas cylinder lock. The lock is so tight I can't unscrew it from the barrel.
 
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Can you support the barrel and gas cylinder really well in a large vise (without cranking down too hard)? If so a large adjustable wrench may fit on the lock and allow you to break it loose. A couple of good judicious whacks with a hammer might help.

If it's really, really on there and nothing sensible will do it you might be able to get at it with a dremel cutting disc and make a slot cut which will probably allow you to get it off, even if the cut is not complete. If you do it very carefully you can stay away from the barrel threads. Of course this will ruin the lock but you will have it off.

In any event use the least force you can to get the job done. Gas cylinders (and barrels) aren't cheap anymore.
 
Thanx I will pick up one o dem wrenches:)
I had to laugh, Brownells has one for something like $58.74 :what:
Surpus rifle has them for $10
 
Many would disagree, but I'll chime in; I no longer take my gas system apart unless the weapon fails to cycle. The last time this happened, it was pretty (like 5 years worth) gummy. I laid it on a couple of blocks of wood and tapped it free with a hammer and a wooden dowel.
 
Next time, use "Anti Sieze" on the gas cylinder lock, and the gas cylinder lock screw. http://www.permatex.com/products/au...ubricants/Permatex_Anti-Seize_Lubricant_a.htm


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You can get this at an autoparts store. And don't forget the gas cylinder wrench...
 
You received some good suggestions about getting the lock loose.
Those shouldn't be anywhere near that tight. You are supposed to screw it down close to the gas cylinder and back off slightly then tap the gas cylinder to the lock and then tighten to lock to 6 o'clock then screw in the plug.

I am also one that no longer takes off the cylinder or lock. I simply unscrew the plug and clean it with solvent and a rag just like the bore. I then set it muzzle down to drain.

Removing the cylinder causes wear, loosness and eventual accuracy problems with the loosness allowing the front sight to move slightly with the cylinder.
 
Use penetrating oil overnight (Marvels' or Kroil--not WD40).
+1. Better living through chemistry. I've even used CLP with good results, but tougher stuff usually requires Liquid Wrench or something stronger.
 
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