M4 Build questions

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Thegreengiant34

Thegreengiant34

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You can build it on your table without much trouble although a vice block will make things a little easier. It’s more important to have for work on the upper receiver. For the lower, the vice block is most important for torquing the buffer tube castle nut. You can get vice blocks for under $20.

That roll pin punch set should be just fine.

Building ARs is addicting. If you think you might build others, I highly recommend investing in a Magpul Bevblock and a good AR armorer’s wrench.

As for the lower, Anderson’s work well although Aero makes AR parts with better fit and finish. Functionally, they are equal.

Have fun!
 
Thegreengiant34 said:
So this will be my first ever rifle build.
I bought a kit from PSA and just need to build the lower. https://palmettostatearmory.com/psa...de-moe-ept-rifle-kit-rear-mbus-516447449.html

Do I really need a vise block and vice grip or can I build my lower on the table?

will any lower fit any upper?
Planning on going with either a Anderson or aero Precision lower.

will this be a good punch set for my build?
https://palmettostatearmory.com/dac...l-drive-pin-and-roll-punch-set-gmpunch24.html
Click to expand...
Like giggity/squared said, get a vise block. Torquing the barrel nut without the upper block can twist the upper out of true, same with the buffer tube.
As long as the uppers are the same type (billet>billet, or forged> forged, and are milspec, any upper should fit any lower. Sticking with milspec parts pretty much ensures all your parts will fit together and function properly.
 
This might be your first build, but probably won't be your last. Get the fixtures. You're gonna hate yourself when you ding the lower installing the trigger guard.

As for the punch set, I know that they call them roll pin punches, but just try to make sure that they're the ones with the dimples in the ends. Makes life with rolls pins a lot easier.
 
I built mine without a vise, just putting a block of scrap wood between it and the table, and I already owned a small punch set. Worked out fine.

I'm not necessarily opposed to buying a vice block, because good tools are rarely a bad investment, but you can do a one-off lower build without a vice no sweat. For an upper build you'd definitely want a vise, but that PSA upper comes barreled so you're fine there.
 
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If you don't get the fixtures, I'd advise installing the roll pins using a pair of channel locks with a good helping on masking tape wrapped around the jaws where you can. I did my first lower like this and did it ding free.
 
Roll pin punches can be advantageous for building an AR-15. The punches have usefulness beyond the AR-15 build.

Fixtures to hold the upper for torquing the barrel can be advantageous but if you feel you will never build another AR-15, then you can manage without. I'm a tool junkie so I like having the appropriate tools on hand.

It all depends on how squeaky your wallet is. I'd rather have the appropriate tools on hand for the task at hand.
 
Think I paid $34 for my BevBlock on sale. Worth it. Many many weeks ago I believed I would never want for more than a PSA complete upper until they ran out of stock on every model that interested me. That was my breaking point and I admit I’m glad it came to that.

Ordered a BevBlock, dimpling jig, and picked out the components I wanted. Now the (AR) world is my oyster. To date my two biggest mistakes have nothing to do with scratches or pins, they were: a lack of clear vision for what I wanted and a lack of patience in getting there. Far costlier goofs than the price of a few tools.
 
I have put together plenty of lowers while sitting at my desk or watching TV. A small pair of vice grips with tape is all I use to start roll pins. I have roll pin punches but am usually too lazy to go get them from the garage. If going by the manuals you should torque the buffer tube/nut. I never do. I do make sure that the nut is staked properly and have never had one come loose. The hardest part (not very hard) is the spring for the front take down pin. It will fly out into never never land on you at least once on your first build. I usually keep extra springs in my parts bin.

A vice is definitely need for the upper to install the barrel and muzzle device. Putting together a stripped upper (minus barrel) can be done at your desk also.

I have a couple clamshells that I use for installing barrels. I also use a receiver insert that came with the one clamshell.
 
I've also got a BEV block (along with a couple other blocks) and it works great.

If there's one thing I don't mind spending money on it's quality tools, and most used for building ARs have other uses. Everyone that tinkers with guns should have a decent punch set and a decent vice is (or used to be) a standard household item. I've also got some pretty specialized tools and headspace gauges because they just make things simpler and faster. I've now, over time, assembled a pretty decent AR15 armorers tool kit.

As the other guys said, it probably won't be your last build. I've now assembled a bunch of ARs for guys at work too. I do torque and stake the stuff that's supposed to be assembled that way, but for the majority of builds it's probably not needed. I also check headspace religiously, it only takes a couple minutes with the right tools and gives me a warm fuzzy with up to 62,000 PSI next to my face.

A simple clevis pin works great on the front takedown pin:

 
I’ve built 3 with no specialized tools. They will make life easier but aren't required.
 
TonyAngel said:
If you don't get the fixtures, I'd advise installing the roll pins using a pair of channel locks with a good helping on masking tape wrapped around the jaws where you can. I did my first lower like this and did it ding free.
Click to expand...
With all due respect, this is among the worst advice given for building an AR. Channel Locks, Vise Grips and other similar tools are poor choices, regardless of how many yards of masking tape the jaws are wrapped in. All it takes is one slip to forever leave the mark of the ham-fisted on your work. It's not a matter of if the jaws slip, it's a matter of when. I know from decades of personal experience using tools to make my living.

If it's your AR and you don't care if it gets damaged, by all means. If you got away with it, fine. But it's bad practice and bad advice.

TGG, get a good set of pin punches. The three types you should get are the normal, flat faced punches, a set with the bump face and a set of starter punches which have a hole drilled in the face to hold the roll pin while you get it started.

A good nylon block to rest the receiver on while you work is useful. I've also found a vise block for the lower to be handy.

Many scoff at some of the specialty tools available to the AR assembler and tell you to save the money. I don't see the appeal of assembling an AR with just a hammer, a nail and tape wrapped pliers like some Third World tribesman. Good AR tools don't cost much and turn AR assembly into a relaxing pastime.
 
I used vise-grips too and they worked great. I used cardboard to cover surfaces so nothing got scratched.
 
MistWolf said:
With all due respect, this is among the worst advice given for building an AR. Channel Locks, Vise Grips and other similar tools are poor choices, regardless of how many yards of masking tape the jaws are wrapped in. All it takes is one slip to forever leave the mark of the ham-fisted on your work. It's not a matter of if the jaws slip, it's a matter of when. I know from decades of personal experience using tools to make my living.

If it's your AR and you don't care if it gets damaged, by all means. If you got away with it, fine. But it's bad practice and bad advice.

TGG, get a good set of pin punches. The three types you should get are the normal, flat faced punches, a set with the bump face and a set of starter punches which have a hole drilled in the face to hold the roll pin while you get it started.

A good nylon block to rest the receiver on while you work is useful. I've also found a vise block for the lower to be handy.

Many scoff at some of the specialty tools available to the AR assembler and tell you to save the money. I don't see the appeal of assembling an AR with just a hammer, a nail and tape wrapped pliers like some Third World tribesman. Good AR tools don't cost much and turn AR assembly into a relaxing pastime.
Click to expand...

So, assuming that he doesn’t have the fixtures, your advise is that he’s better off trying to hold the lower flat on a surface while trying to hammer a roll pin in? THAT sounds like a recipe for disaster to me.
 
TonyAngel said:
So, assuming that he doesn’t have the fixtures, your advise is that he’s better off trying to hold the lower flat on a surface while trying to hammer a roll pin in? THAT sounds like a recipe for disaster to me.
Click to expand...
You did catch the part where I recommended Green Giant get good AR tools, including a vise block and roll pin starter punches....?
 
Skylerbone said:
My dentist used pliers once. He’s no longer my dentist. If $100 in tools separates a person from doing things right, how on earth will he ever afford to shoot the thing?!?
Click to expand...
Money didn’t prevent me from using punches. Vise-Grips actually gave me more control then hitting the pins with a hammer. Punches can slip too.
 
I’ve put together so many I really dislike it. I used to enjoy it but just can’t stand it now. I actually paid someone $30 to put one together for me last week.
 
It’s rather obvious there is a divide too large to bridge here. My advice is to use the proper tools for the job. Arguing against that logic, the use of tools every professional builder and producer of ARs uses, is beyond my comprehension.
 
Something to hold the lower receiver is an absolute must. Even then you will wish you had a third hand. I got this vise block, which was designed to work with the Tipton gun vise. Although it does work when clamped directly to a work bench. It is functional, but not very sturdy. Especially when tightening the castle nut.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1007361846?pid=354847

When I built mine I did not have a vise. So the Wheeler block worked for me. If you have a vise, find a block that mounts in and you will have a much easier time building the lower receiver.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1019647754?pid=221808

Nearly any punch set will get you through. I got a standard SAE punch set from Lowes and have rarely needed to use punches from other sets. Do yourself a favor and get a detent installer tool. Installing those detents and springs, you will come up with some inventive cuss words. A little tool will help.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1007370226?pid=919925

Thegreengiant34 said:
Another question I have is should I lubricate the parts as I build the lower? If so which parts?
Click to expand...

Nope. I didn't use any lube on my parts that I recall. You will soak it in gun oil after it is built anyway.
 
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