Magazine keep rusting

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BSA1

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I am posting this under the General Gun Discussion since it is a issue that can and does affect all of firearms. However in my case I have a blue steel magazine for a Star M-43 that keeps rusting despite me oiling and waxing it. Under a strong light I can see a number of areas where the metal has rust brown colored areas mixed between the blue steel areas. In other words the magazine does not have a uniform blue/black finish. Trust me on this with I state I have degrease it, polished, cleaned it well with steel wool and various oils such as CLP and Remoil, even waxed it and stored it in a plastic bag and rust keeps coming back.

For the record my area does not have high humidity and I don't have problems with any of my other guns rusting.

Would having the magazine plated solve the rust problem or is there something about the base metal that would allow to rust through the plating or a coating such as Ceracoat?

Essentially this magazine is useless as it is not rust resistant.
 
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If its not pitted, don't worry about it, keep it clean and lubed. how it looks doesn't matter.

My go to 1911 mag for when a gun is having problems, is an old WWII GI surplus mag with essentially no blue left, the whole thing is a dirty brown color with some shinny spots but everything is smooth and if the gun don't work with this mag, I know the gun needs work!

I live in a very hot and humid area.

If its pitted, especially on the inside, start looking for a new magazine!
 
First off, I am guessing that finding a relacement mag may not be easy...if it were, I'd buy two or three new ones and have them Parkerized or hard-chromed. Given that this is not a viable option, and you have to work with the mag you have...

I think that scrubbing with steel wool is embedding particles into the surface. Those particles will rust easily, promoting rust on the mag's surface.

I'd start with a brass "toothbrush" and scrub the ever-loving crap out of the mag, especially any parts that show any evidence of pitting (that are harboring steel wool bits)...

If you can find some Eezox or CorrosionX, blast the mag with it, rub it in, then throw it in a plastic bag for a week.

Then take it out, wipe it down, and let's see how rust-resistant it is from that point.

Or...maybe disassemble it, have it bead-blasted, and then Parkerized or hard-chromed.
 
Might want to try this, I live in Florida (HUMID year round!), I got a hold of a product named "StrikeHold" and LOVE IT! I've seen it at gun shows and bought it online at specialtytools.com. I believe it was originally developed for the military to protect their weapons. I have found when I use it I get much better metal protection and it's easy to use. I think if you get a can you'll be hooked.
 
Wally,

It develops rust scales on the exterior.

I have extra mags but I hate to discard a otherwise useful mag.

I'll have shop around for Corrosion-X.

I am curious if this a base metal problem which means it can't be fixed or improper preparation before going bluing tank.

Problem won't show in picture when clean.
 
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For my Star (PD) mags I clean with Hoppe's after use. Let dry then wipe well with a silicone cloth. I have some over 20 years old and no problems.
 
I have good luck with Brichwood Casey "" barricade rust protector""

I have guns in the gun safe with a light coat of barricade for 2 years--no rust
try it
 
The best anti-corrosion treatment would be to bead blast the mag and have it plated with .0005 of electroless nickle. Any commercial plater should be able to handle a job like this pretty cheap. Do not plate the spring.

E-Ni is much more corrosion resistant than hard chrome.

Try to find a plater who is used to working with thin, sheet metal parts so they don't dissolve your mag in the pickling tank.
 
If you have a vibratory tumbler, walnut media and NuFinish liquid car polish, I may have a solution for you.

I disassemble reloading dies with light surface rust and tumble them in fine grit walnut media (20-40 grit) treated with 2-4 capfuls of NuFinish polish using Berry's 400 vibratory tumbler. In 30 minutes to an hour, all the surface rust is gone and the die surfaces are coated with non-greasy residual NuFinish polish that will prevent rusting for 6 months to 1 year.

You could try the same with your rusty magazines.

I removed heavy rusting on a friend's dies and tumbled them in Berry's vibratory tumbler with walnut/NuFinish on this thread - http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=586563

Before
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After rust removal and polishing in Berry's vibratory tumbler using fine grit walnut media and NuFinish polish
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Cover it liberally with CLP.

Let is sit for about half an hour.

Wipe any excess CLP off with paper towels.
 
See Post #1. Already tried CLP.

It would appear that you did NOT clean the surface or wait long enough then.

You can even try heating the mags in an oven at about 150 F while they are wet with oil.

If you establish a good oil film that is well bonded to the base metal is is NOT going to rust from casual contact.

I would almost bet money you polish off every protective material you put on.

There is SUPPOSED to be a very light oil film on the surface.
 
CLP is no stranger on my reloading/tool bench. In fact it is my oil of choice for winter use on my semi-automatics.

Your idea of what a lightly oiled magazine is may be different than mine. I keep my magazines wiped down with a silcone gun cloth. The only other magazine I had rusting issues with I successfully treated with by removing the rust scales and keeping it lightly oiled. Curiously that magazine would never take cold bluing.

This magazine is proving to be the exception. I tried CLP and it just doesn't work. If it had worked then I would not needed to post this problem.

Please note my comments about the appearance of the blued finish on the magazine now. Are you saying that improper preparation of the magazine before it was placed in the bluing tank would not cause it to continue to rust now? Or cheap steel with impurities made overseas would not cause this problem? (What country are Star magazines made?)
 
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"silcone gun cloth"

That is likely the reason.

You have contaminated the surface with silicone so that nothing but silicone can actually 'stick' and it is NOT a good protector.
 
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