Making a gas check die the beginning.

What material would you use.

  • A grade 8 bolt sold by the 5 at 25 dollars

    Votes: 2 40.0%

  • A piece of all thread 2 feet long for 35

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Buy a chunk of steel and start from scratch.

    Votes: 3 60.0%
  • Total voters
    5
Do you have the capability to heat treat the steel if you use tool steel? If not go the Grade 8 bolt.

Copper/brass/Al is pretty soft you could get buy with just a std Grade 3 till you find out what works during the R&D process.

Is this for making the GC or installing them??????
 
I've been thinking about making one on the old clapped out south bend, normally I just Powder coat but I'm thinking of getting a mold for my 9.3x62 and gs maybe nice but could be hard to find that size. You have plans or just winging it.
 
Tool maker by trade

I would start with new material and turn in lathe and thread as well to ensure perfect concentric fits.

The body I would use 1045/1095

The punch and form I would use O-1 tool steel and heat cherry red after maching and drop in a mineral oil/whatever you got and let the part cool in the oil. It will be in the 40's rc at least.
 
KY DAN said:
Tool maker by trade

I would start with new material and turn in lathe and thread as well to ensure perfect concentric fits.

The body I would use 1045/1095

The punch and form I would use O-1 tool steel and heat cherry red after maching and drop in a mineral oil/whatever you got and let the part cool in the oil. It will be in the 40's rc at least.
Click to expand...
Just make it all from 4140 PHT and skip the heat treating.
 
Blue68f100 said:
Do you have the capability to heat treat the steel if you use tool steel? If not go the Grade 8 bolt.

Copper/brass/Al is pretty soft you could get buy with just a std Grade 3 till you find out what works during the R&D process.

Is this for making the GC or installing them??????
Click to expand...
For making them. I have a torch, no tanks yet... no heat treat oven or anything.
 
Docendo Discimus said:
Just make it all from 4140 PHT and skip the heat treating.
Click to expand...

I have delt with it before and I am not that knowledgeable.

Some pht was heat treated to the core and other was only so deep. I don't know the difference, I mainly work with stainless and tool steels

I am not opposed to learning if you can shed some light on this.
 
It is great stuff, very tough and easy to machine for a steel alloy. It is a consistent hardness all the way through, around 30 HRC.
 
Have you checked Pat Marlins?

Patmarlins™ | Specialty Products for Casting and Reloading

Patmarlins<sup>TM</sup> - Precision Manufacturer for Checkmaker<sup>TM</sup> Gas Check, Forming Tool and Die sets, POCKETLuberBP<sup>TM</sup>, Handy Bullet Luber, ROCKDock<sup>TM</sup> Reloading, Bench Docking Mount System. Order is guaranteed to be spot on and work flawlessly. We stand behind...
patmarlins.com patmarlins.com

He makes a bunch of gas check maker die sets.
 
I don’t know if Pat Marlin is still in business. A lot of folks had problems with his check makers. There were huge delays getting what was ordered also. It could be better now, or not.

He was very active on castboolits.gunloads.com but got himself banned.

If you want threaded rod, check grainger.com or other suppliers. Cheaper than Amazon.
 
Last edited:
Docendo Discimus said:
Just make it all from 4140 PHT and skip the heat treating.
Click to expand...
The punch I made from PH4140, the die body I made from threaded rod. Gots to have I.D.s and O.D.s match the stock thickness, that is critical.
I have only made up a few hundred for .358" and .309" using .010" and .014" aluminum. If it starts wearing early, I will turn and thread some PH4140. I have some V44, but I would need to use only carbide bits and drills.
 
AJC1 said:
Trying to figure out the smart way to do this project.
If you chose steel blank please elaborate which material and why...
The all thread https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CNZQ7RN...6NTJVRE7&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it
The bolts
Click to expand...
Try this: 1144 carbon steel - fatigue proof
www.mcmaster.com

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
www.mcmaster.com www.mcmaster.com

HOWEVER, beware of going to this site as you will certainly find something that you absolutely think you need (but prolly really don't)......!!!! 😁 :p

Sounds like you're having fun with that lathe..............:thumbup:
 
garandsrus said:
I don’t know if Pat Marlin is still in business. A lot of folks had problems with his check makers. There were huge delays getting what was ordered also. It could be better now, or not.

He was very active on castboolits.gunloads.com but got himself banned.

If you want threaded rod, check grainger.com or other suppliers. Cheaper than Amazon.
Click to expand...
If that was intended to be an endorsement…
 
Apparently PM is still in business............bought a .30 cm from him a couple years back and I get the occasional update from his place. Last just a couple weeks past. Mine works, but material used is critical and I have experienced problems with the oft suggested cold drink cans. Plus, when I ordered it took a LONG time for delivery...........I've read reviews that praise his stuff and others that are critical. Frankly, if I was going to purchase another I'd look around a bit.
 
Here is what I use for .309".
103a6276-3bb1-4db4-a92b-a107f389e700.jpg
From Lowes. The label on the roll I bought doesn't show .014", but go by the same number and it is. The .010" thick I also got from Lowes. It's 6" wide.
20221218_080744.jpg
20221209_182638.jpg
I haven't tried the .309" yet. But the SWC works good out of a rifle at over 1800fps.
 
usaral63 said:
Apparently PM is still in business.......... Mine works, but material used is critical and I have experienced problems with the oft suggested cold drink cans.
Click to expand...
Apparently, Pat Marlins had supply issues around the pandemic which hindered his ability to produce his products.

I got an e-mail from him a little ago saying his supply problems were corrected. I have not ordered anything from in quite a while so I verify. He used to have timely deliveries.

I have a couple gas check makers that are for plain base bullets. I had no trouble forming gas checks using aluminum soda cans.
 
cfullgraf said:
Apparently, Pat Marlins had supply issues around the pandemic which hindered his ability to produce his products.

I got an e-mail from him a little ago saying his supply problems were corrected. I have not ordered anything from in quite a while so I verify. He used to have timely deliveries.

I have a couple gas check makers that are for plain base bullets. I had no trouble forming gas checks using aluminum soda cans.
Click to expand...
Using free cans seems ideal.
 
AJC1 said:
Using free cans seems ideal.
Click to expand...
I just use aluminum soda cans for a source of material for gas checks. I drink lots of Coke Zero and other Coke products and they seem to work fine for me.

Pat Marlins recommends using a paper cutter to make the strips of materials for cutting out blanks for forming into gas checks. It takes a little care getting the strips of material a uniform width that fit the die that makes the blanks. Not too wide yet not too narrow. They have to be a uniform width.

Besides gas checking plain base bullets, these gas check are good for making over and under wads for shot capsules.

I've not tried making gas checks from copper sheets or aluminum flashing.
 
best of luck on your project, just wondering if .020 is too thick, we use this at work and it seems like the 1/2" width would be correct?

www.buyinsulationproductstore.com

Aluminum Banding Roll (200 ft)

Use this roll of aluminum banding to create fab-straps for pipe jacketing, fitting covers, and more. We offer quality insulation supplies at competitive prices!
www.buyinsulationproductstore.com www.buyinsulationproductstore.com
 
AJC1 said:
Trying to figure out the smart way to do this project.
If you chose steel blank please elaborate which material and why...
The all thread https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CNZQ7RN...6NTJVRE7&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it
The bolts
Click to expand...

My die body is a 7/8-14 Grade 3 I bought at a farm store where they sell them by the pound. The punch is Grade 8, but I don't think Grade 8 is necessary. If you're making checks out of aluminum, it's WAY softer than steel.

D2HdDMGl.jpg
ZmHecAnl.jpg


As you can see in the photo, I use aluminum "No Trespassing" type signs. If memory serves I can get close to 350 checks from one sign. But, I've also used aluminum guttering. I have no use in copper checks as there doesn't seem to be any advantage.

35W
 
Pottimus said:
best of luck on your project, just wondering if .020 is too thick, we use this at work and it seems like the 1/2" width would be correct?

www.buyinsulationproductstore.com

Aluminum Banding Roll (200 ft)

Use this roll of aluminum banding to create fab-straps for pipe jacketing, fitting covers, and more. We offer quality insulation supplies at competitive prices!
www.buyinsulationproductstore.com www.buyinsulationproductstore.com
Click to expand...
If the material is too thick, the checks will tear. Somewhere I have a chart on material thickness per bullet caliber.
 
Looking at what is available, you need to be thinking along the lines of 2 die or 1 die with 2 different rams, 1 for creating a round flat and another to create the cup. I would think the punch would be the easiest since thickness of the sheet wouldn't be "the" major concern, the forming die would require different diameter rams for different thickness sheets. I would think a grade 8, 7/8 bolt for the die body and hardened steel for the ram would be wise choices, harder to work in the lathe BUT will last longer and maintain tolerances longer.
 
Here is a well wrote up, with illustrations for making your own gas check punch and die set.
 

Attachments

  • GCI gas check maker.pdf
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