making a muzelloader.

[tazman141]

i was wondering if i could make a muzelloader in my spare time. what do i need to make it, and what would be the best kind to make? and is this legal?

 

[GregGry]

Your best off getting one of the assemble yourself kits that allows you to put one together from parts (including finishing). If your going to try to make your own rifle your going into potential dangerous territory. I would imagine all black powder firearm barrels have been proofed, aka shot with a heavy load and not blown up. Using a homemade barrel without the proper knowledge of metallurgy and design (not to mention practical testing) is asking for a blow up. Besides, the price for a decent black powder rifle wouldn't be more then it would cost to have just a barrel custom made.

http://www.cabelas.com/product/Trad...-All+Products&Ntt=Traditions+kit#BVRRWidgetID

 

[pockets]

You can legally make pretty much anything in muzzle loaders; from pistol-shotguns, to cane guns, to cannon/mortars/howitzers.
All are perfectly legal to build/own/shoot. Buy components and guns online, with no more hassle than buying a Red Ryder BB gun.

I'd suggest starting by looking at 'Dixie Gun Works'. While not quite as cool as they were 30-40 years ago, they still have a ton of stuff.
Their catalog is well worth the money....the size of an old Sears Robuck and packed with info, guns, kits, parts, etc.
http://www.dixiegunworks.com

Also over the years, I have bought a lot of components from Log Cabin Shop (after 'Golden Age' shut down).
http://www.logcabinshop.com

And I highly recommend 'Track Of The Wolf' as well.
http://www.trackofthewolf.com

Flintlocks and other muzzle loaders are a blast to build and play with.

.

 

[303tom]

Amen ! What they said ........

 

[USAF_Vet]

Sure, it's possible, legal, and a lot of fun.

Here is a thread on the topic. scroll down to see the .50 cal muzzle loading pistol I made awhile back.

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=613765&highlight=home+brew

 

[zxcvbob]

http://www.buckstix.com/HowitzerBarrel.htm

 

[Ghost Tracker]

I've got some experience building/shooting smokepoles. I was VISITING Dixie Gunworks 30-40 years ago, knew Turner Kirkland & was there...3 weeks ago. Pockets is right, it doesn't hold quite the "Oh WOW!" factor it once did, but if you're an aspiring builder it's still a good place to start. Don't know your current skill set, but you can get kits that run from raw-parts to everything-done (except final finishing). Is your motivation the building experience or saving money? 'Cause you'll (for sure) get the first, but the second is sometimes tougher to come-by. It's a fun undertaking & perfectly legal. I've watched a lot of folks try it. By the end of your first project, you'll either be completely hooked OR swear-up-&-down you'll NEVER do it again. I wish you luck & truly hope you love it.

 

[AlexanderA]

There's a big difference between making a muzzleloader from scratch (forging and rifling the barrel, fabricating the lock, carving the stock from a slab of wood, etc.) and assembling it from a kit, or from parts already made. Making it entirely from scratch is beyond the capabilities of 99% of people, as well as being economically unfeasible (especially considering the investment in the tooling required). The only reason to do so is just for the challenge.

I once built a Model 1842 percussion musket using an original Harpers Ferry lock. (This was before commercial repros of this gun were available.) I got a new barrel from Whiteacre's Machine Shop (http://www.whitacresmachineshop.com/), and a new stock from Dunlap Woodcrafts (http://www.dunlapwoodcrafts.com/Gunstocks.php). The rest of the furniture was a mixture of original parts and rough castings that I had to file and polish. Unlike the recent repros, you really can't tell this from a well-preserved original.

 

[arcticap]

and is this legal?

The only legal complication that I'm aware of is if a modern firearms receiver is used or adapted to make a muzzle loader, then the gun is still considered to be a firearm and not an antique or reproduction muzzle loader that would be free of most firearms regulations.
If a modern manufactured and registered firearms receiver is used, then the gun will always need to be transferred as a modern firearm because the receiver will always be considered to be a firearms receiver.
For example, if a modern single shot shotgun receiver were used to build a muzzle loader by attaching a muzzle loader barrel to it, that receiver and gun will always need to be transferred as a firearm and not as a muzzle loader. And if it were sold interstate it would need to be transferred through an FFL.
And because it would be considered to be a firearm, then it would need to meet all of the other ATF and state legal requirements for a firearm regarding minimum barrel length etc..., and it would be a crime to file off the serial numbers.
So when building a muzzle loader, it's better to not use a modern firearms receiver unless the builder is aware of the legal restrictions.

 

[Montenegrin]

You can't build your muzzleloader entirely from scratch,and as someone stated above,99% of people can't. I mean,you can make it you want smoothbore matchlock musket but I don't believe that's what you want.
If you want to build something other you will need to buy barrel,lock and wood for stock.
I suposse you are begginer,so it's best for you not to make muzzleloader alone,better buy kit for making it.
Making it is legal if you live in USA.

 

[[email protected]]

There is a guy who lives around here who has made several single shot
target pistols using the cheap 15.00 pistol crossbows. He was putting a
muzzleloading barrel on them, they cost 35.00 and was using the trigger
and other parts from the crossbow. He didn't have more than 50.00 in them.
And they worked rather well. Consider the ones that I have cost more than
800.00 now.

 

[USAF_Vet]

made several single shot
target pistols using the cheap 15.00 pistol crossbows.

I'd like to see one of those. I had one of those crossbows as a kid, I'm wondering how well made any firearm could be if using the frame from them. As I recall, they were pretty flimsy. A pic would be awesome, just to get an idea for a new project.

 

[Omnivore]

Definitely start with a pre-inlet kit. Finish that one, then try a non-inletted kit, in flint-- caplocks require more precision in positioning the lock/barrel/snail (powder drum) so if you have to do all the inletting, do it first with a flintlock. Then move on to making a stock from a plank, etc. Get books and videos on the subject, available from the companies referenced in the replies above.

There are several different skill sets involved, which must all come together in the finished product. You will quickly develop a great deal of respect for the master gunsmiths of old, especially considering that they did it without the aid of artificial lighting or power tools, modern chemicals, etc.

 

[Zombiphobia]

to make a muzzle-loader you need the following ingredients:

-Barrel or pipe
-Propellent/Fuel.. gasoline, gunpowder etc..
-Priming system- Percussion caps, fuse, match...
- Projectile- Lead ball or bullet, potatoe, rock... use your imagination

 

[rodinal220]

Buy this DVD to get a primer on whats involved in building a nice rifle:

http://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categ...?catId=4&subId=38&styleId=137&partNum=DVD-BML

Then once you have decided its for you and have aquired the tools,"some" knowledge buy a quality "kit".

http://www.flintlocks.com/

http://www.trackofthewolf.com/Index.aspx

I highly reccomend taking a rifle building class at Connor Prarie or directly from Jim Chambers.Money well spent.Nice folks.

 

[zimmerstutzen]

I made a muzzleloader barrel from a old rusty scrap rifle barrel. I drilled the barrel from 22 to 375 and then reamed it to 385. Drilled and tapped the breech end for a 1/2 inch breech plug and made an 18 inch smooth bore barrel. Mounted it in a maple stock I cut from a slab. I did use an old spanish repro lock.

American barrels are not generally proofed. In some other countries each barrel must be proofed by law.

I proofed my barrel by loading 80 grains of powder and two patched balls. Measured again carefully for swollen spots, etc. Fired it three more times and then used it for hunting a few times.

 

[woodsrunner38]

There are a few gun makers around who have the ability to build a muzzleloader totally from scratch, but not too many. gunsmiths at Colonial Williamsburg do so. Also, the House Brothers, Hershel and Frank, from around Woodbury, Kentucky, are fully capable of this. I have flintlocks by each of these brothers that were formally Ford A-Model springs, 1941 International truck bumpers and wrought iron rims off farm impliments. These are the sources of metals most desirable for barrels, locks, etc. And then there's Jud Brennan up in Alaska. I have seen pieces made by Jud that were totally hand made and could not be identified as contemporary. It's possible, but not more than a small handfull of contemporary builders have the abilities to do so.

 

[72coupe]

I know a fellow that has a rifling machine that he might sell. It was built by Mr. Mowrey.

 

[Beauhooligan]

As to practicalities, most of the decision is made by what skill set you bring to the project. I shine on working metal, but my wood work is still poor enough that I wouldn't try and whittle out a Kentucky rifle. But, with my skills I can take a Lyman Great Plains Rifle from a kit, to looking suitable for a gray bearded Rocky Mountain hiverano. I've built 8 over the years; four .54's, one of those a flinter, and four .50's. I have 3 of those now, two .54s I built for my brother and I, neither a flinter, and a .50 that I spotted in the used gun rack at a gun store in Modesto, Ca. I bought it on the spot, and double checked my books to see if the serial number matched. I use Birchwood Casey Plum Brown barrel finish listed in the Dixie catalog as DA0203. I heat the metal to just below the boiling point of water and apply the finish on everything except the lock. I apply three to five coats of finish, lightly scaling the metal with 4 ought steel wool. It's a controlled rust brown finish. I did about as good a metal to wood fit as I'll ever do on those rifles, but I was 20 years younger. I'm currently using Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil Finish, which is also available from Dixie Gunworks. Plum brown on the steel, Tru-Oil on the wood. A semi-matte wood finish will do nicely for the shooting range or deer hunting. I don't get into aggressive polishing on any firearm I plan to use in the field. I found the Lyman kits to be very well made, better than the Investarms kits I used to see. Most importantly, they turned out to be good shooting rifles. They look good for the Western Fur trade period, though by the time beaver ran out, most of the rifles were still flinters.

 

[OldJoe]

Taz... I've been playing with muzzleloaders since 1975 and what I tell everyone is to get a Dixie Gun Works catalog. Don't just look at the kits and stuff but read all the little comments that the late Turner Kirkland (the founder) put in there. You'll pick up a lot of great info. Also, pick up a copy of Foxfire 5. It's one of a series that has a lot on muzzleloading, including building. I've used Mr. House's method to build several guns. And if you can find it, get a tape of DVD called "The Gunsmiths of Williamsburg". Mr. Gussler is a true artist. It took me many years to learn what you can with this info in a few months. Good Luck, OldJoe

 

[Elkins45]

I hunted for several years with a T/C Renegade left hander that was built from a kit. It wasn't particularly taxing to assemble (the barrel was already blued) but was a lot of fun and the wood finish looks better than any factory gun I've ever seen. Having the time to do 20 hand-rubbed coats of Tru-Oil really makes the difference vs. mass production. I also built a CVA Kentucky rifle kit for my Dad, but that was over 25 years ago when almost everybody was importing kits into the country. THose CVA kits weren't nearly as nicely inletted or finely finished as the T/C kit was

Search around on the web and see if you can find a kit to start with, rather than leaping into a pile of raw materials headfirst.