Making knife handles

[19-3Ben]

OK so I've seen a lot of these blanks from the old Camillus factory on eBay. I think it would be kinda cool to buy a blade and give it it's final finishing, sharpening, and make a handle for it.

I can figure out how to finish (figure I'll just use Mother's mag and wheel polish on a rotary tool), and how to give a sharp edge (I do it with my 8000 grit waterstone). The thing that's getting me is how to make the handle.

I figure I'd buy a couple of blank blocks of wood sketch the outline of the tang, cut it and inlet it until it fits, etc... But what about the rivets? How do it hold it all together once i've managed to fit the slabs to the side of the tang?

 

[Blofeld]

Try Atlanta Cutlerey, they have a fair bit of knife making supplies, excellent customer service.

Go easy on the grinding process, sometimes this can heat the blade and change tolerances, making them brittle.

Post a pic when you're done!

 

[highorder]

www.knifekits.com

I really like threading the handle and using (8-32 or 10-32) flat head cap screws to attach the scales. They can be epoxied in place, or left removable for cleaning, changing, or anything else.

Micarta is my material of choice. I leave it unpolished for grip.

 

[Vern Humphrey]

I figure I'd buy a couple of blank blocks of wood sketch the outline of the tang, cut it and inlet it until it fits, etc... But what about the rivets? How do it hold it all together once i've managed to fit the slabs to the side of the tang?

If you're making scale handles, drill the tang (slowly and use cutting oil -- the steel will work harden). Cut the scales a bit oversize, position them one at a time on the tang, and drill through the holes in the tang. Countersink the holes, and use Cutler's rivets (available from various supply houses.) I like to add a bit of Gorilla Glue before tightening up the scales.

When the Gorilla Glue is cured (you can see it ooze out) use a bench sander to bring the scales down to flush with the tang.

 

[Blofeld]

I'm contemplating a para-cord wrap, dipping it in epoxy, and allowing it to harden. Once you start making them, it gets quite addictive.

 

[Valkman]

I had my wife doing this last night! I taught her to trace the outline of the tang on the micarta, use the bandsaw to cut 'em out and then use the drill press to drill the holes. Vern is right - hold one scale to the tang and drill through the tang into the handle material. Remember that 1/8" and 1/4" pins do not fit in 1/8" and 1/4" holes - I use a #30 bit for 1/8" and a "G" bit for 1/4" pins. I cut pin material and put it in the drilled hole so it holds the tang and handle together while I drill another hole.

Then put it together and find where you want the front of the handle and grind it to shape and finish - you can't do it once it's on the knife. Now epoxy it on with the pins or whatever - I use the slowest drying Devcon from Wal-Mart as it is waterproof and Gorilla Glue is not. Clamp it, wait 2 hours (I leave it overnight), and grind off the excess. Done - easy as pie. Any pin material you want at http://www.texasknife.com/vcom/index.php

Edit - All this is done PRE-HEAT TREAT! If your blank is heat treated forget drilling holes and use the ones provided. If it is not HT'd then you can drill but then you have to have it heat treated. The place I just gave a link to does heat treat also.

 

[rcmodel]

Devcon from Wal-Mart as it is waterproof and Gorilla Glue is not.

You sure?

I glued one flat rock on edge, to another flat rock (Kinda like a sun-dial pointer) with Gorilla Glue about 4 years ago as a test.
It is still setting outside in the weather in my wifes flower garden.
And they are still glued together!

But regardless, it is not the best thing to use for attaching scales, or rocks.
Slow cure epoxy is the best.

rcmodel

 

[Valkman]

There was a guy proclaim that GG was the best glue ever and ask why we all weren't using it. I can't remember the whole argument but I think it was the waterproof issue that shot it down. No knifemaker uses GG that I know of.

All I know is I've had to take one of my knives apart and it was very difficult - nothing is getting the tang and handles apart but a grinder.

Only the slowest setting Devcon is waterproof - the others are "water resistant" which isn't good enough. I do use the 5 min stuff for some things but not knives and tangs.

 

[rcmodel]

I agree completely.

The reason I would not use Gorilla Glue on scales is because of the foaming expansion.

I could see it expanding and flexing a thin scale enough to leave an unsightly glue line when it cured.

We know for sure slow-cure epoxy works every time, and has for many years now, so that is all I would recommend.

rcmodel

 

[Valkman]

I am probably being too serious - if a guy wants to screw around and make a knife and have fun it probably doesn't matter what he uses. Just think ahead, get the holes right, glue and clamp. After clamping get off all the excess glue that sqeezes out - acetone really helps here. Once it dries you'll have to grind it off.

 

[gb6491]

19-3Ben,
Here are some links I have on making/installing handles:
http://gbrannon.bizhat.com/instructionallinks.htm#handles

Fellas,
Here are some of the links from the "Glue Wars":
http://gbrannon.bizhat.com/shop.htm#glues
The two of most interest might be "Epoxies: Glue Wars 2" and "Lessons learned from the "Glue Wars"

Regards,
Greg

 

[Valkman]

Those "glue wars" are something - I started to wade through the first one and gave up. The guy did not prepare the handles properly and that alone negates all results. The handles need a much rougher finish than 220 grit and I also usually "golf ball" the inside of the handle on the drill press. Most makers also put holes in the tang besides pin holes and these act as "epoxy pins" between the dimples and holes. As for Devcon failing in the dishwasher or boiling water, these are not conditions any custom knife will be subjected to. I'm not looking for something bombproof, but something that works very well, is clear and waterproof. I use JB Weld for bolsters and guards but it does show gray as was said in those threads. There's also larger bottles of epoxy sold under different names - whoever is selling it like Tru-Grit or Pop's has their name on the bottles. It's a larger quantity than Devcon, but has the same qualities.

 

[19-3Ben]

OK so I've got some of the knife blanks. One skinner that I really like, and the other is a hunting knife that Camillus was making for Remington. It is actually stamped "Remington" on the blade.

I love the feeling of the Remington knife. it's got a nice thick blade and a great shape and weight. But I don't know anything of the steel. If this is a good steel like a high-carbon stainless, or a good carbon steel, I'l get another 3-4 of these knives. If its cheapo stainless for a $15 knife, I'll pass.

Can anybody tell me more about the blade?

 

[Dirty Bob]

I've created a bunch of knives from finished blades. It's a lot of fun and very educational. One of my faves is a short machete. I took off that huge, dorky D-handle and replaced it with a set of Micarta stocks with homemade "Loveless" rivets, with JB-Weld as the epoxy. I reshaped the tang to make it fit my hand better. It's now a huge, heavy-duty kitchen knife that's great for cutting up frozen food that might chip one of our finer blades. It has the same sort of appeal as a beat-up truck that runs great.

My next project will have a blade from a Frost's Mora Triflex Tradesman knife. At $11 it's an excellent knife for the $$, but I want something slim and light for regular carry.

The main reason I do my own handles is that I can make something that fits my hands and my needs. I solder my guards and bolsters with low-temp silver solder and generally use Micarta or Pakkawood (Dymondwood, etc.). I can do a better job than many of the factories (especially these days! ), but many of the custom makers put my best efforts to shame!

You can also modify the handles on factory knives. For example, I like the Mora Erikssons, but there's usually a substantial gap around the blade at the bolster. This can be filled with JB-Weld. The slick handles can be grooved, checkered, dimpled, stippled or can even have the red paint burned off (as suggested by Old Jimbo on his website). These inexpensive knives have good steel and are great learning projects. I buy knives from http://www.ragweedforge.com/, but they also sell blades. I find the knives to be more bang for the buck. If you want to make your own handle, just take the old one off with a chisel, but be prepared for some work if it's one of the Frosts with a solid plastic handle. Those bad boys are tough!

Have fun!
Dirty Bob

 

[Valkman]

If they didn't tell you in the auction, and it doesn't say on it then it'll be awful hard to say. Unless someone just knows what Camillus was using for skinners.

On the handles, prep work is key no matter what epoxy you use. I sanblast the tang.

 

[19-3Ben]

If they didn't tell you in the auction, and it doesn't say on it then it'll be awful hard to say. Unless someone just knows what Camillus was using for skinners.

I've asked one of the sellers. I'll ask the other.

 

[Navy joe]

So on a scale handle the pins are not expanded or "bucked" any? Just left original diameter and the glue does the holding?