Making SP101 wood grip panels?

[something vague]

Has anyone on this forum made their own grip panels for the stock grip on a Ruger SP101? I would love to see a quick how to on this as I love to work with wood and have come across some beautifull peices of wood as of late that I think would set off my SP101 .357mag! I recently acquired some birdseye maple, rosewood, and walnut. I also got a few slabs of corian countertop leftovers from a job that I wouldn't mind trying to fit and polish up. Any help would be appreciated. I could probably figure it out eventually on a couple of junk woods and then transpose my work to the real stuff but it's always nice to see these tutorials all over these sights.

 

[fxstchewy]

I would also like to see what others have done, like to have a set for my SP101.

 

[9mmepiphany]

i haven't done it...don't have a SP-101 anymore...but i had a friend who made some for his gun.

1. i see to remeber him planing the wood to rough thickness
2. tracing the outline on the wood and cutting.
3. mark the screwhole
4. fit grips and sand flush

 

[something vague]

I have ordered a couple of the bushings for the screw to go through and attach to on the other side from brownells. I haven't recieved them yet but does anyone know what the proper way to install these is? Also what would be the recomended final finish on wood grips be? The only thing I could come up with would be Spar Varnish. Do you think such a varnish is neccessary or would just a plain few coats of regular poly be the answer?

 

[BCRider]

For the screw sleeves it depends on what they look like.

For the wood finish it'll depend on what sort of finish you want. The dull "woody" oiled look or the glossy "dipped in plastic" look or something inbetween.

I've had great luck getting a nice matt finish using water based poly by just wiping it on, let soak in for about 30 seconds and then wipe it off. Sand between the first couple of coats as the water in the poly tends to raise the grain slightly until the wood is sealed. Two more wiped on coats and you'll have a semi shiney finish that is much like many coats of oil.

If you want to go with an oiled finish then get a proper DRYING furniture finishing oil. Lemon oil or "polishing" oil is not the stuff to use. Things like boiled linseed or Watco or Minwax brand Danish oil is what you want. And I'll lend my own personal recomendation to the Danish oil. Use as directed and plan on 4 to 5 coats spread on and wiped off with at least 24 hours between coats.

There's some inside work to be done on most grips so they fit down into the openings of the frame to avoid turning on the screw. That'll take a bit of jigging up to replicate on multiple pieces. It's worth it though. Also you've got some freedom to make the grips oversize and produce your own Hogue replicas. If you want to try the fatter finger grip hollows of a target shooting grip set I'd do a first trial in some cheap building supply wood and leave the grips a little oversize and unfinished. Get them to where you really like the feel then go shoot with them. Bring along the rasps and sandpaper. Don't be afraid to remove them and reshape slightly as you're shooting. Work them to a true custom fit for YOUR hand. If you suddenly realize that they need to be a different shape you're only out maybe 50 cents for wood instead of 15 bucks for something exotic. Also the building spruce, hemlock or whatever sands and cuts much easier. Keep making them until you have the IDEAL shape and then replicate it in the fancy wood.

.... at least that's what I'll be doing when I get my Model 19 and 28 in a few weeks....

Just remember, when in doubt try a technique or finish on some scrap first. It really sucks to do it on the final product only to find out you don't like it.

 

[9mmepiphany]

There's some inside work to be done on most grips so they fit down into the openings of the frame to avoid turning on the screw. That'll take a bit of jigging up to replicate on multiple pieces. It's worth it though. Also you've got some freedom to make the grips oversize and produce your own Hogue replicas. If you want to try the fatter finger grip hollows of a target shooting grip set I'd do a first trial in some cheap building supply wood and leave the grips a little oversize and unfinished. Get them to where you really like the feel then go shoot with them. Bring along the rasps and sandpaper. Don't be afraid to remove them and reshape slightly as you're shooting. Work them to a true custom fit for YOUR hand. If you suddenly realize that they need to be a different shape you're only out maybe 50 cents for wood instead of 15 bucks for something exotic. Also the building spruce, hemlock or whatever sands and cuts much easier. Keep making them until you have the IDEAL shape and then replicate it in the fancy wood.

.... at least that's what I'll be doing when I get my Model 19 and 28 in a few weeks....

that's the difference/advantage between the Ruger and the S&W. no interior fitting...it's flat and there aren't any locating pins. the wood panels on the ruger SP-101, GP-100, Redhawk and Super Redhawk are more akin to those on the 1911

 

[BCRider]

Ah, I learned something. Thanks 9mm. Hopefully I didn't mess up the rest of the reply...

Now there WOULD be some interior side work if you want the grips to extend beyound the stock frame but that's pretty easy to do with a router or even multiple plunge cuts with a Forstner bit and then clean it up with wood chisels.

 

[madcratebuilder]

Are we talking about he complete grip or the panels that go on the oem grip? The grip inserts are very easy. Pen turning suppliers offer small blanks the perfect size to cut into inserts. Hundreds of different exotic woods are available. Several types of bone/stag. Making a complete grip for the shank mount would be a bit more challenging.

 

[something vague]

I was originally talking about the panels that go into the OEM grip. But I would also love to undertake the project of making some hogue type grips with some finger grooves. Those made out of exotic woods would really set off the SP101. It would also be a great project to work on while waiting for the 2ft of snow to go away up here in the woods of Maine. Also it's too damn cold to be outside shooting anyway. Thanks a lot for the fast responses and especially to BCRider. Great info on finishing products that I would have not known.