Man I'm starting to hate casting

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charger

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My LBT 458 mold has started pruducing bullets that are 4575 on the second to bottom band and 457 on the bottom band. 458 or close enough on the top two bands.This doesnt bother me cause its gas checked and I know obturation will bang thos bands out. Only problem is I dont know if that .001 on the bottom band is on center or all on one side,and how much would that matter when 46 grains of H4198 lights up behind 345 grains..Thats the other thing. 345 grs out of a 325 gr mold????? I know thats the alloy diff. but what do you make of that slightly smaller at base bullet????
 
The alloy and the temperature at which you're casting will make a big difference on the diameter of the bullets the mold throws, as well as the weight. Generally, the harder the alloy, the larger in diameter the bullet and the lighter the weight.

You might try adding a little more antimony to the mix. It will make the bullet harder, but will allow the alloy to flow better and fill out the mold better, as well as having less shrinkage as the alloy cools.

I've found that bullets cast of straight linotype are quite a bit larger in diameter than Lyman #2 alloy from the same mold, as well as quite a bit lighter. Experiment with the alloy and you can tailor the bullet to what you need.

Hope this helps.

Fred
 
Different alloys have different shinkage and density properties. With the information you've given I would suggest that your alloy needs more tin and/or antimony in the mix. If you started with wheel weights, lino or commercial #2 alloy then you want to examine your fluxing as you may be inadvertently scrapping these necessary components off.

From Lyman's casting book, 3rd Edition, page 58:

.458 Diameter bullet alloy differences:

Pure lead: .4575", 439gr
Wheel Weights: .4583", 433gr
#2 Alloy: .4590", 420gr
Linotype: .4595", 407gr
 
In my casting days, I had lots of problems with bullets until I eventually learned that alloy is of paramount importance, as "Pointman" says. I eventually got a bullet that was very uniform and worked well for me that consisted of about half wheelweights and half linotype. Linotype became very hard to get -imagine it's even more so these days- and my last years of casting were done using Lawrence Magnum bullet metal. Good stuff, but never as good as the "half & half" mixture noted above. My methods were never that exact, but I got what I wanted: very uniform, accurate bullets that didn't lead my barrels. It cast about 156 gr. out of a 160 gr. SAECO mould, and about 194 or so out of a H&G # 68. I did all my lubing-sizing with an ancient Lyman 45.
 
Well I thought I should range test these before I replied..So here we go,I bent down to the pile of 143 cast bullets,closed my eyes and grabbed some from different places in the pile. Came up holding 11. And then looked down and figured I was going to regret that,cause some had nice sharp backs,some a small radius. Then I thought no,if this is a random test let the test begin.So I ran them through my lee sizer which I've polished up to 4578 to match what I sluged bore to.It just kissed the front bands and didnt the rear. Gas checked em,loaded em,out I went...Well I guess we wont worry,all 11 went into an ugly worm hole group at 100...I suppose that ends that.And oh ya,does the walnut sawdust flux ever work great. I pour with laddle and it keeps the surface skimmed as quick as I pour. The flux that keeps giving...Thankyou much guys :):)..a cast that out shoots copper jacket.Yeehaa I say Yeehaa
 
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