Manual Barrel Threading

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P.B.Walsh

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Hello to all.

I am in the need of getting my barrel cut and threaded. Currently the barrel is 26" and I'd cut it back to 20" for better handleing. Last time I did this, the gunsmith charged me $195!! Granted it was a well done job and my rifle shoots just as straight as before, so we all know the machining was good, but, it cost me $195.

So, as with anybody, I would like to avoid paying another $200 for just a simple cut and thread, and a roughly one month wait (especially during hunting season).

So, I heard of this company called "CNC Warrior". www.cncwarrior.com

They have a device to start threading, a nut to put in another tool for actually threading the barrel, and a file to finish it for a flash hider. Then all I have to do is purchace the flash hider! Project Complete.

Here are the links to the parts I believe that I will need:

Thread Starter: http://www.cncwarrior.com/shop/23432-58-24-die-starter-for-7-62/

Thread Die: http://www.cncwarrior.com/shop/23982-58-24-rh-die/

Thread Die Handle: http://www.cncwarrior.com/shop/22951-1-5in-die-handle/

They also have finishing files and a hacksaw to cut the barrel, need to find a strong vice though.

So, now to my question, are these tools above able to be used by hand. Trying to do this, again, so I dont have to rely on a gunsmith.

Open for other ideas, thank you for your time,
P.B.Walsh
 
Threading the barrel with those tools does not seem particularly difficult if you're mechanically inclined and have done tapping/threading before.

Cutting it is a different ballgame. The cut has to be squared. That's going to be tough with a hacksaw and "finishing files".

You're also forgetting the muzzle crown. That has to be redone as well, it's critical for accuracy. Just send it to the gunsmith.
 
How are you planning to turn your barrel down to the proper diameter for say....... 5/8x24tpi?

The first link shows what appears to be a guide that inserts into the muzzle and that helps with the die going on straight only after correct muzzle diameter is reached.

The best threading job is going to be a single point done on a lathe. There's just no way around it. The threads have to be concentric with the bore and thus be indicated from the bore with a range rod with the right bushings. There is no way you will be able to achieve a good job using a hand die.

There is a reason that it runs into money, done right it does takes proper tooling and time. If you value quality work and accuracy I would strongly urge you to have a qualified machinst or gunsmith do the work.

On the other hand if you are just planning to install a flashhider with a huge hole in it, go for it. If you are planning for a muzzle brake or suppressor to be threaded on the end of it it's a recipe for disaster.
 
These folks are right. It depends on the level of accuracy you need to achieve? If the flash hider will be a lot bigger than the actual bore/bullet diameter, you have some leeway.

You can cut a barrel with a hack saw and you can get close to square with hand files and a square. You can set it up in a drill press hanging vertically in a holder and trim the end with a 120* countersink, and then finish with a brass screw and lapping compound. You can do a lot with old simple tools and making fixtures to hold stuff straight, etc.

John Browning made some really fine rifles with a forge and basic 1800's machine tools and a LOT of file work. British gunsmiths still file barrel contours and such. But it's very time consuming and you need to make fixtures and guages to keep it all pointing in the right direction.

You can research barrel crowning here and on the 'Net and get some ideas. Maybe you can take your barrel to the local regular machine shop and have them turn the end down for the barrel treading die to fit? Or they might even thread it for you cheaper than the gun smith? But it takes planing and maybe some help. It's not a water pipe :(

You need to figure the cost of the dies and such in lieu of paying for machine work? It's all a trade-off somewhere along the line?
 
Well dang, thought it would be a bit simpler than that, I'll just get up the $200 and get a professional job done, besides, I know he is decent at his work.

Thank you once again,
P.B.Walsh
 
What kind of rifle are you wanting to cut and thread? Prices vary depending on action, but you can get it turned around in a week if you send it to ADCO FIREARMS.
 
No friends with capability, its a Winchester 70 CRF btw.

Oh, and thanks for the link, kinda unsure of shipping my barreled action..... much less taking the trigger off.....
 
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First that thread starter is wrong. you need to be able to stop that starter from sniping around and I would make sure the metal to metal doesn't occur.
Second the most critical part will be to cut the barrel perfectly and then recrowning. Brownells and midway have the kits but not sure you are going to save any money.
Here is one but need the brass pilot.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=628/Product/79-deg-MUZZLE-CROWNING-CUTTER

The other one is here..
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/74...t-muzzle-90-degree-crowning-cutter-1-diameter

Brass pilots are overpriced. you might be able to cut a pilot yourself but you need a lathe to do that.
 
Too bad your not closer to me(WI) I'm a machinist and that is such an easy job to do.Believe me when I tell you if that gunsmith charged you $200 to do that he made about $225.00 per hour rate.
I've done my own Beretta barrels,recrowning and threading for a bushing to tighten up the slop between barrel and slide.Easy,easy.easy.

Check out MSC Industrial Supply,they will have thoes dies and die holder.The thread is an extra fine 5/8.
 
Yea, I wish we had a decent gunsmith here in Tuscaloosa, but the closest one I know is up in Birmingham (about a 45 min. drive).

I'll just pay the guy, mabey it'll be a shorter wait time.
 
I'll just pay the guy

That appears to be the best choice for you with being tentative about shipping your rifle out. You seem to trust the GS to do a good job, and peace of mind is certainly worth something.


NCsmitty
 
Look around for another gunsmith, maybe trade some labor for gunsmith work. Most gunsmith work is not rocket science. I live in a rural community, several communities away is a small gun shop. The owner does gunsmith work as well.

In the last several years: I had him relined and chamber a .22 to a .17 Mach II; built a F Class rifle from scratch using a Rem 700 action, barreled, chambered and etc.; a Rem 788 rebarreled for F class shooting; rebarreled a T-38 Arisaka; and currently we're putting a Green Mountain barrel on a .22 mag. On all guns, he has never charged me more than $75.00 for turning the barrel down, threading, chambering,milling extractor slots, crowning and setting the barrel. They are always done in a week or two.

I buy all the barrels, reamers, if needed, and parts; help with or remove the old barrels and do small tasks on the gun. Sometimes while he is working on my gun or if I'm just there, he puts me to work cleaning or doing repairs on other customer guns. He offers to pay me, but I always refuse. Sometimes he does small jobs for me and delines payment, I leave $10.00 or $20.00 on the counter, depending on the job. I value having a gunsmith who does work quickly. Granted finding and developing a relationship like this is not easy, it takes time and effort. Trading labor for work is a way to start.

We met four years ago. Three years ago he was going to put up a 30X60 garage. I asked who else was going to help him as there are always guys hanging around his shop. He said it was just him and his son-in-law. I offered him two days of labor. In one weekend starting with just a finished slab, we framed, set the trusses, sheathed walls and roof, framed windows and doors. He wanted to pay me, but I wouldn't accept any money.
 
Which city is he in? I'm from around Medford. There are not many good g-smiths around that do alot of that kind of work,if they do they really charge rediculous rates. I used to hang around Randy Gregory's shop where he build his Puma rifles.He accurized a .243VLS for me.
 
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