Marlin 336 in 35 Remington Questions

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My 336 is another that will cloverleaf factory Rem 200 gr core lokts and also the 150 grain PSP core lokt bullet loads (single loaded). Mine came to me from a seller in Michigan, who attached a 4x28 scope on it. I do prefer the looks of open sighted lever guns, and also those with a peep, much more than a scoped lever...but the 336 shoots so well with it I’ll leave it be.

I also like 3031 powder for the .35 Rem and .45/70 as well. It shoots very accurately with decent velocities.

You have a nice specimen there, treat it well and it’ll be your grandsons rifle someday :thumbup:

Stay safe!
 
Well, I managed to take the lever and bolt off last night and inspect the bore, it is bright and shiny! Also have done some dry firing using a foam ear plug under the hammer to prevent any damage. The trigger isn’t light but is very, very crisp with no take up. Really a lot better than I expected for an old lever gun.

Got a one piece mount and low rings on order for my Leupold 1-4X20 that’s going on it.

My first ever rifle (which I still own) is a Winchester 9422 in .22lr. I bet I put 20k rounds through that thing as a teenager. Handling this Marlin is almost like going back to being a kid.

I’m really hoping to wack a mulie buck with it next October and getting to send my uncle some jerky.
 
I’ve got over a dozen Marlins, and the M336C in .35Rem is the one I’d keep if I could only have one.
Don’t believe everything that’s been previously written in this thread.
1. You’ll need to replace the magazine follower on your 1950’s rifle to use the LeverEvolution ammo. They’re inexpensive and will make a large difference. (They have a dimple in the middle to keep the rubber tip from jamming between the edge of the follower and magazine tube). Ask me how I know! I modified my original follower.
2. No need for caution using the 150gr Corlokts. Yes, they’re more pointed than the 200gr, but still have a flat meplat, and don’t line up in the magazine point to primer.(also, why the FTX bullet needs the special follower). Likewise with the 150gr .30/30 Corlokts, no need to 2-shoot them. Yeah, I’ve heard same about them...
3. A LeverEvolution round sighted in +2.5” at 100yds IS NOT 4-5” high at 150yds. It peaks at ~110yds at 3.1”. But, it’s NOT my favorite bullet.
4. Hornady LeverEvolution.35Rem brass is not shorter than other brass.
5. In my 30+ year shooting/loading the .35Rem, my favorite powder is H4895. Followed closely by BLC2, and LVR.

My .35 wears a Leupold 2-7x VariX II. I sight in a 200gr Corlokt loaded with H4895 or LVR to 2,250fps to +3” at 100yds. Its zero at about 150yds, and is about 5” low at 200. Longest kill was at later lased 228yds. I held on top of deers shoulder, and broke spine. That was after I Shot twice with too much hold over. Even after 30yrs, I still couldn’t process that it shoots flatter than you think!

Suggestions:
1. use the free Hornady ballistic program to see what your rifle REALLY does. Don’t use a 1.5” scope height. The Leupold base and low rings are closer to 1.75”, the cheap see-thru are ~2.5”.
2. You owe it to yourself to check out www.marlinowners.com. There is a vast amount of “correct” information over there on everything Marlin.
 
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My favorite firearm that I own is my Marlin336 in .35 Rem. My son has taken it over but I still used it to take a nice 10 pointer this year. I have only shot the LeverEvolution rounds out of mine and they perform very well on deer. I typically get exit holes from 2-3 inches wide depending on the size of the deer. Great blood trails and the round just hammers them. With the LeverEvolution rounds I have never gotten better than a 2 inch group at 100 yards. That round is not particularly accurate out of my rifle but it works well enough for close range deer that I haven't tried any others.
 
I inherited a 1968 336C about 5 years ago in .35 Rem. Would you believe I haven't shot it yet? Ammo has not been easy to find for this rifle.
 
I gave the bore a good cleaning with copper solvent this evening. Removing the lever and bolt was easy and facilitated running the rod from breech to muzzle. Surprisingly the 75 lands and groves of the “microgrove” barrel cleaned up fairly easily.

I also tried cycling some factory Leverevolution rounds through. They functioned smoothly with the original follower in place.

Now I just need to make it out to the desert to shoot!
 
Just don’t leave them in the magazine all day.
Mine cycled fine, too, but if ammo was left in gun for several hours, the soft polymer tip would squeeze between the mag follower and mag tube. The small dimple centers the tip of the bullet in the follower. I’ve also seen the tips take a “set” and squeeze into the juncture of the primer and case, causing them to “stick” to the round in front of it.

Again, I don’t care for the FTX in .35.

I, by necessity use them in my .338ME’s and like them in the .25-36Marlin.
During the ObamaAmmogeddon, I ran out of 200gr Corlokts and couldn’t get ANY .358” bullets for the .35R. I broke down and got an RCBS 200gr FNGC mold and haven’t looked back. I’m getting 2,050fps, 2moa accuracy and it kills deer as good as anything I’ve used in the .35R. Actually weighs 218gr with GC’s installed. Recoil is noticeably more than factory loads as is energy.
 
Love mine I had see through rings installed with mine so I could use either or the irons or scope haven’t killed with it yet so far
See through rings are one of those things that sound like a good idea, but don't actually work out. As has been noted, they put the scope too high for a proper shooting position. The last thing you should be doing if a quick shot presents itself is deciding which sighting system to use.
 
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The TC liked handloads w 200gr Hornady round nose.
It shot around an inch at 100yds.
Note: the forend had weight added to make the gun less twitchy for offhand.

The 760 I tried the Hornady Leverevolution. It loves em. I got em touching at 50 yards.
Went to 100 and fired a couple, adjusted scope. Never shot it for a group at that D though.
The 50 yard group was good enough, just needed elev adjustment at 100.

Will test em at 100, plus Core loks and handloads now that season is over. I got the rifle and scope put together a couple weeks before season.
Had shot it before purchase, and knew it liked that ammo.
 
.35 rem..............notice my 760 wears an alloy butt PLATE.
Comfy on the shoulder, not comfy on the deer.
Plus the cartridge just looks cool.

And the old guns look even cooler.

But.................. stainless Model 7 in kevlar stock....in .35 rem.
Be a dandy all weather rig.
 
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What brand of factory ammo is the most popular for the .35 Rem. All I seem to ever find is the Hornady.
 
To everyone who said see thru rings won’t/can’t work they do for me


Generally what was said was that they don't work well, due to requiring a very high "cheek weld" - that makes precision shooting far more difficult. After three "cookie cutters" from my Model 70 in 30-06; I changed my mind about how useful they were. That plus the objective bell didn't leave much room to even see the iron sights.......
 
Ideally you look at the target and bring the gun up and the image appears in the scope.

Can a person successfully use a gun of poor fit? Sure.
Doesn't mean they have the best system.

IMHO proper gun fit makes difficult shots easy.

Dangerous game rifles sometimes have detachable scope systems. Notice they never have see through rings.
 
If you look closely at my TC carbine..........it wears a rynite factory stock designed for iron sight usage.
It flat out sucked for scope. Until I made a kydex cheepiece for it :)
The factory rynite is of thin grip and tough material, unlike wooden stocks. The factory walnut is thin and breaks, and is for iron sights.
Laminate aftermarkets are thick grip and heavy.
The rynite w cheekpiece was the cat's meow. Secured by Velcro. Cheap, effective, and didn't mess up original stock.
I saw that buck up ahead, sunlight on his back. Snuck up and put the gun where I last saw him. Gone. Moved gun slightly left and he was there, X hairs on his shoulder...........thread the needle through thicket at 75 yards. Hit him right where aimed.
Cheepiece and forend having weight added to make it less twitchy offhand...........a quick shot was on the money.
Gun fit and balance made that pretty much a ho hum.
Better to have it and not need it, than the other way around.
 
My buddy bought a 760 w see throughs, actually two of them.'
One had a Leupold 2-7X on it.
Wanted to run it old school.
I told him junk those see through rings.
He was adamant he wanted to run a "period" correct classic deer combo.
Took to range and couldn't zero the gun (out of vert adj).
Went w reg rings and got it zeroed.
 
What brand of factory ammo is the most popular for the .35 Rem. All I seem to ever find is the Hornady.

My LGS used to stock the 150 and 200 gr Remington stuff, and the Hornady Leverevolution.
Now it's mostly Hornady.
Heard Remington might have dropped the 150's. Either that or maybe just major retailers dropped em. I dunno.
My Contender (1st one, non easy open Super 14)......liked the 150's.
 
I have a 336, 35 Rem made in 1966. Love to shoot and reload for it. It's quite a thumper. I really like 4320 powder, it hits higher on paper at 100yds than any I've tried and groups exactly where factory Hornady LRV does. 200gr bullets are all I use.
 
I bought a 35 Remington 336 a year ago but haven't hunted with it yet. I do reload for it. I use Sierra 200gr Pro Hunter bullets. I also have some Hornady 200gr soft nose bullets. I don't like the gimmick rubber tipped bullets. I use Accurate 2495 powder. Its Accurate's answer to the 4895 powders and I have an 8 pound jug of it already. My gun is just open sighted. I can shoot it well enough for the ranges I hunt and I like the way it feels in my hand without a scope.

But if want to scope yours then go ahead. You can only shoot as well as you can see. And the Marlin owners site linked to above is a good place to visit and they have a dedicated 35 Remington forum.
 
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