Matching or improving my favorite .40 factory loads.

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Kuyong_Chuin

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I basically use three factory loads in my Ruger P944 .40 S&W. Winchester 165 grain FMJ for target practice because it is cheap, Magtech 155 grain JHP, and 150 grain Double Tap ammo. I prefer the Magtech 155 GGJHP bullets they have a better BC than the 150 grain Nosler JHP used in the Double Tap ammo and the Hornady 155 grain XTP® bullets. The Magtech ammo launches at 1205 fps and 500 ft/lbs of energy. The DT ammo launches it's 150 gr Nosler JHP at 1275 fps and 542 ft/lbs. From my reading it looks like Hodgdon Longshot is just about the only powder that will push a 155 grain JHP to those type speeds. Question is, is it possible to get the Magtech 155 grain GGJHP bullets at or above the DT 150 grain speeds and energy level safely out of the Ruger P944 and will work in a .40 S&W caliber carbine as well. Probably a High Point carbine but not sure yet since I am still looking for one.
 
The Magtech ammo launches at 1205 fps and 500 ft/lbs of energy. The DT ammo launches it's 150 gr Nosler JHP at 1275 fps and 542 ft/lbs.
They do from the advertising copy from the manufactures.

They don't from your actual gun, shot over a chronograph I betcha.

What you need to do is get a chronograph and test the loads you want to match with hand-loads.

Only then will you know what it is you are trying to match.

rc
 
For what it's worth, Walmart online has some "Chrony" brand chronographs for about $80 bucks. Not the best I know, but I bought one recently and it seems pretty accurate.
 
ArchAngelCD said:
No offense meant but please, when you reload please be more careful than you are here in this thread. In a very short time you made 2 major errors. You gave us the wrong bullet weight and then the wrong powder. Either can cause major problems, both can be deadly under the right circumstances.

Joey, I'm not jazzing you, I'm just worried...
Please do not take this the wrong way. Having read your posts since you joined THR, I am genuinely concerned about you reloading near max/max powder charge loads - http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?p=9042297#post9042297

Kuyong_Chuin said:
Question is, is it possible to get the Magtech 155 grain GGJHP bullets at or above the DT 150 grain speeds and energy level safely out of the Ruger P944 and will work in a .40 S&W caliber carbine as well. Probably a High Point carbine but not sure yet since I am still looking for one.
When you are loading near max/max powder charge loads, there is no room for mistakes or accidents. Unless you have the means to verify, you could be off by few tenths of a grain of powder charge or more, you could be seating the bullet base deeper than published load data to significantly increase the chamber pressure, you could be working with reduced neck tension and not know it resulting in bullet setback which will increase the chamber pressures way high, etc. I have seen too many pistols blow up and some of the rounds were loaded by those not new to reloading (we are human and all make mistakes). I hate to read another "Funny thing happened at the range today" thread.

If you are new to reloading and going to be pushing the max powder charge envelope, especially with 40S&W, I would strongly suggest you get some reloading experience under your belt before approaching max loads. Why? Like the rest of us, you'll make some mistakes along the way and learn from them. There are reloading variables that will affect chamber pressures and case wall failures that you may not be aware of now. Making mistakes with mid-to-high range loads will possibly save you from trouble but if you are working with max load data, mistakes could result in damage to firearms and bodily injury.

If you can't wait, I would strongly suggest you at least consider these before loading max charge loads:

- Verify your powder charges are accurate to 1/10th of a grain. Just because your scale zeros does not mean that it is reading consistently and accurately. Heavy calibration weights won't ensure your scale is accurate at much lower weights of your powder charges. If you don't already have one, I recommend a set of check weights and verify scale accuracy more closer to your powder charge weight ranges (5 grains instead of 500 grains).

- Do not start with max powder charge but conduct powder work up from published start charge.

- Keep in mind that different bullet types and nose profiles will produce varying chamber pressures, even when they are the same bullet weight. Same weight bullets from different manufacturers can have different nose profiles (ogive) and bullet lengths that can result in different bullet seating depths. Different bullet seating depths will affect chamber pressures and some powders are more sensitive to seating depth variation than others. Working OAL/COL is determined by the pistol/barrel/magazine (not by the load data) and if you are using shorter than published OAL/COL for the same type/length bullets, consider reducing your powder charge. Be sure your calipers are reading accurately to .001" and you are using them properly.

- Use the most current published load data. Powder formulation can change lot to lot and powder manufacturers do change powder formulation over the years. If there is any change, published load data from powder manufacturers will be most current. Winchester/Hodgdon changed to using the same powder for W231 and HP-38 back in 2006 and has shown the same load data ever since. If your load data shows different powder charges for W231/HP-38, that may indicate it is using older data (Lyman #49 shows different powder charges for W231/HP-38).

And please, DO NOT exceed published load data.

- 40S&W load data in your Lyman #49 reloading handbook was tested using .401" groove diameter test barrel instead of more typical .400" and lists higher max powder charges than powder manufacturers' load data. Slug your barrels and if your groove diameter is .400", I would use the lower powder manufacturers' load data.

- Check bullet setback by measuring the OAL/COL before and after feeding the test dummy rounds (no powder/no primer) from the magazine (lock the slide back, insert magazine and release the slide without riding it). If you experience significant decrease in OAL/COL, I would seriously address the bullet setback issue before range testing the initial rounds.

- Use verified once-fired brass in excellent condition or new brass for max charge loads. If you are using mixed range brass with unknown reload history, you have no idea how many times the brass have been shot with hot loads in looser chambers and have stretched/thinned case walls that could contribute to case wall failure. Your eyes won't be able to tell overly stretched cases with thinned walls fixed with push-through resizing dies from other cases (Redding G-Rx/Lee FCD). BTW, I use mid-to-high range load data with mixed range brass and toss/recycle any case that I have concerns/issues with.

- As rcmodel suggested, use a chronograph to verify your loads with published load data.

YMMV - Be safe.
 
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I have to agree with BDS in his concern about loading up in the max. range. I often work up to and run warm loads, but there is a right way and wrong way to approach such efforts to increase velocity / ft lbs..

Always use a scale to weigh powder charges that are approaching the max. published data during work up. One you've found an apparent safe load that meets your expectations, then carefully start at a load below that with your powder measure, using your scale to check the throw weights.

Utilize a chrony, and know how to interpret velocity signs relative to the barrel length. Just because a particular load isn't achieving published velocity, doesn't mean you are not into excessive pressure territory. You can easily get yourself into trouble by thinking that published velocities relate to all barrels or firearms. Many published velocities are taken from test barrels and firearms not typical to what you are using.

With AL cartridges, such as .40 cal., are very difficult to read pressures with. Primers are absolutely a non effective means of reading pressures on AL cartridges. As well, trying to read pressures on the brass are just as ineffective and unreliable, short of split mouths or blown case heads. This leaves you with chrony results, published data, and how far the brass gets kicked out to rely on. Not much to go on, so proceed cautiously. I promise you that you will split case mouths or blow case heads before you'll see any signs on the brass or primer that your at or above maximum pressures.

GS
 
To all that are concerned, I was just trying to see if it was possible to create the load and do it safely. I have no plans at all of starting any load at anything but at the minimum the data shows and cross referenced from two or more sources. I plan to create a dummy round for every caliber I do to check everything before ever loading a primer or powder in a case. My kit is still in it's box where it will remain till I not only get everything I need together and my bench built, and I have read not only the two manuals that I have multiple times but any other reliable source on safe reloading practices. I hope to find a local safe reloading mentor as well if I can find one. I have been shooting firearms for over 40 years. I have worked with chemicals since I was 16 starting with high school chemistry. I owned my first black powder rifle at the age 18 and my first black powder pistol that I built from a kit at age 20. I have always followed safely rules when it comes to anything dangerous. I appreciate the concerns and I am listening and learning from you all as well as the manuals. The only way to learn is to ask questions and get the correct answers. Some people learn by trial and error, I prefer to get things right the first time especially when danger is involved.
 
Maybe this will help

FWIW
From my XD 40
155 XTP @ 1.120 Power Pistol
8.4 Gr avg 1226 FPS

150 Nosler JHP @ 1.120 Power Pistol
7.0 Gr 1070 FPS
8.0 1161
8.4 1193


Hope this helps you

PP
 
My test with Power Pistol and Hornady 155 XTP-HP's:
8.0 grains Power Pistol--1145 fps using Win cases, CCI 500 primers in a Glock 23, oal 1.125"
 
Not sure why, but I have a buddy that has a Glock. Loads always run about 50-70 FPS slower than from my XD
 
Glock barrels have very smooth start of rifling with rounded rifling and longer leade the bullet has to jump from the case neck to the start of rifling (see picture below). These allow the bullets to slide deeper in the barrel before chamber pressure starts to build and leak more high pressure gas around the bullet.

attachment.php


In comparison, the Sig 1911 barrel has very quick start of rifling with almost no leade. This allows faster chamber pressure build up and less high pressure gas leakage.

attachment.php
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FWIW
From my XD 40
155 XTP @ 1.120 Power Pistol
8.4 Gr avg 1226 FPS

150 Nosler JHP @ 1.120 Power Pistol
7.0 Gr 1070 FPS
8.0 1161
8.4 1193


Hope this helps you

PP
Thanks PP and rg1 that is what I wanted to know if anyone had worked up loads that matched or out preformed my factory loads. When I start loading for my 40 it will be just light target loads till I am comfortable with the process of loading them and following safety procedures. I will then work up a load starting at the minimum and slowly work my way up.
 
Thanks PP and rg1 that is what I wanted to know if anyone had worked up loads that matched or out preformed my factory loads. When I start loading for my 40 it will be just light target loads till I am comfortable with the process of loading them and following safety procedures. I will then work up a load starting at the minimum and slowly work my way up.
Glad to help. I really would get a chrono if I were you, i think all relloaders sould have one. That being said, if you start on the low side of the loads I listed, you SHOULD be safe. I'm not sure why, when someone asks a question like you did, 10 people have to jump in and tell you, you are going to blow your gun up. Youll shoot your eye out, etc. You werent requesting some off-the-chart load, just a nice factory equivelent

PP
 
Kuyong_Chuin and PowerPistol, I really thought long about my post before I made it based on OP's previous posts (believe me, it was truly out of concern). Looks like OP has the right frame of mind to approach reloading with safe practices.

I will request my previous post be deleted.
 
Kuyong_Chuin and PowerPistol, I really thought long about my post before I made it based on OP's previous posts (believe me, it was truly out of concern). Looks like OP has the right frame of mind to approach reloading with safe practices.

I will request my previous post be deleted.
I am all for trying to give safe advice to the folks getting started. My fear is that , in a case like this, if we dont offer some support beyond just criticizing them, they may go off on their own and load something crazy.
 
And yes, based on OP's previous posts, that was my concern.

But after reading OP's recent posts, I am growing more confident OP will properly work up his loads.
Kuyong_Chuin said:
When I start loading for my 40 it will be just light target loads till I am comfortable with the process of loading them and following safety procedures. I will then work up a load starting at the minimum and slowly work my way up.
 
I am not really seeing where the OP was criticized, but I do see some good advise. Cautioned, yes, but not criticized. Caution is always warranted when trying to load at or near max, especially when the poster asking about them gives no hint as to their reloading experience.

We want to help here at THR, but more importantly we want to be safe, and that has to be figured into posting advise. :)
 
I was not offended at all. I know the one thread was confusing because my brother mixed up the two bullets when he told me the loads and I typed what he told me till he caught his mistake. I have explained to my brother that when the data on the powder label has only one charge listed for that bullet that it is the max charge not the starting load. Then I showed him the manuals have both the starting load and the max loads and that you start at the minimum charge and not just load the charge that is on the label when all it has is the max charge listed. I think it is starting to sink in that the guy that loaded his rounds is doing so insanely and is an accident waiting to happen especially when I found out the guy is loading all his round he loads at the max on the powder can. Surprised he has not blown himself up yet. The guy has been warned of his unsafe practices and asked for him to by a manual and read the thing before loading another round. Also not to fire any of the rounds he already loaded till he learns what he is doing wrong. The guy just started loading his own ammo in the last few months I learned when my brother was talking to him on the phone. So my brother and the other guy are nuts for being so stupid.
 
Kuyong_Chuin

Hey we all have to learn some where. We just don't want to see you get hurt. You are asking questions, and the wealth of knowldge has come through! I load 20k or more of 40s&w each year since I shoot a .40 in IDPA. You have to be careful with .40 since its such a high pressure load. As others have said, work up and find a load that matches your favorite factory load. As BDS, and others have said, get a Chrono. Amazon has a Compitition Electroincs Pro Digital Chrono for $100. I have a CE, and love it!
 
Hey we all have to learn some where. We just don't want to see you get hurt. You are asking questions, and the wealth of knowldge has come through! I load 20k or more of 40s&w each year since I shoot a .40 in IDPA. You have to be careful with .40 since its such a high pressure load. As others have said, work up and find a load that matches your favorite factory load. As BDS, and others have said, get a Chrono. Amazon has a Compitition Electroincs Pro Digital Chrono for $100. I have a CE, and love it!
That is on my list of equipment still to get. I have the Lee breech loader kit, a pair of dial and a pair of digital calipers, and both the Lyman 49th and the Lee 2nd manuals, plus the downloaded load data from the powder companies that were available and the Nosler online data that I saved as html pages till I convert them to a pdf. Have 1 lbs of H-4350 powder. Still have to order my dies, a chronograph, a tumbler kit, a lube pad, two loading blocks, a digital scale to go along with the balance scale I got with the kit so I can weigh each charge with both scales to make sure of the charge, a case gauge for each caliber, set of go no go gauges for the M44, and a ammo box for each caliber plus labels. Need to go to town again when I have more time to get primers for the rifle and the pistol as well as the other powders I need. H-4895 and what ever powder I can find for the pistols that I have the data for. Any thing else I am missing other than the brass and the bullets which I am beginning to believe they are never going to be in stock. All the components do not do me any good if you can't get the bullets.
 
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Ahh I must admit I do like the real world advice given on THR. Kudos. Loading .40 self deff high pressure rounds is unadvised. Only top terr hand-loaders should do this. On the other hand it would allow one to more cheaply practice with carry ammo. Still I'd try to approximate recoil/round qualities at lower velocities using FMJ bullets. Maybe using heaver gain bullets. Anyway most firearms instructors will tell you not to use hand-loads for SD/carry. Ignore that last sentence if your prepping for the zombie- apocalypse. Zombies won't sue or get the DA to prosecute you for using your special super death, minority hoodie seeking cyanide-tipped, armor piercing custom death ammo hand made by you only to kill innocent people. Maybe we should be worried about lawyers attaching. Not zombies! just a thought!
 
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