Mauser 30-06 sporter headspace problem and absence of caliber markings

[saturno_v]

A friend of mine got a very very nice Mauser 98 30-06 sporter 2 weeks ago.
Nice dark wood, very accurate.
During a gunsmith inspection the bolt did close on a NO-GO gauge but won't close on a FIELD gauge.
He got the gun checked by another gunsmith gauge set with the same results.

He got the following possible explanations from the gunsmiths and gun experts asking around:

1) Gunsmith mistake when the new barrel was installed.

2) Older military rifles had "looser" tolerances to sustain rough and dirty use (doesn't seem very plausible to me).

3) Barrel manufacturer looser tolerances.

4) The locking lugs are starting to "sink in" on the receiver but the gunsmith told him that there is no way to verify that, it's impossible to have a visual inspection in that particular spot.

All gunsmiths and "experts" alike agree that the gun is perfectly safe to shoot....he went through few boxes of ammo during the weekend and the brass did look perfect, no signs of overstress, splitting, flattened primers, etc...

He called Hornady to ask if he could use their Light Magnum loads (the ammo he intends to use for hunting this year) and the technician said that there is no problem, that the Mauser 98 is one of the strongest actions out there and if it doesn't close on a FIELD gauge it's good to go.

One of the gunsmiths told him it's not worth it to correct the problem...it would cost him quite bit of money and he may have a canted front sight as result.

Finally..there is no caliber marking on the barrel...is that normal?? Barrel manufacturers, even in the past, sometimes didn't stamp the caliber??

So what's your take on this rifle?? It's safe?? It's better to get rid of it?? It's a wall hanger?? If it's safe to shoot how much life could have left because of the headspace issue??

Thanks

 

[Cypress]

I would not have any problem shooting the rifle. If he intends to reload, neck sizing or adjusting the FL sizer for the gun would eliminate any problems with over working cases. The only thing I would do would be to check the headspace regularly to make certain that it isn't getting worse which might indicate soft lugs.

 

[.38 Special]

If you'll excuse what might be a silly question, how do you know it's a .30-06?

 

[saturno_v]

He got it from the shop as 30-06, the gunsmith did check the bore and it's a .308, it closes on a NO-GO 30-06 gauge but it doesn't on a FIELD gauge and it's accurate....I don't think there is any posibility that the rifle is for a different chambering...

For example, if it were an original 8 mm Mauser, at mimimum, it would not close on a 30-06 GO gauge (case lenght for the 8 X 57 JS is 57 mm, for the 30-06 is 63 mm)....

 

[.38 Special]

I'm thinking of several wildcats that are almost .30-06, and even the remote possibility of the .30-03.

 

[SteveW-II]

Assuming that the M98 action didn't start off as a 30-06, it must have been re-barreled. I thought it was a Federal requirement to have caliber stamps on the new barrel ?

 

[saturno_v]

I'm thinking of several wildcats that are almost .30-06, and even the remote possibility of the .30-03.

I understand that but what wildcat cartridge would be so close to a 30-06 for the bolt closing on a NO-GO 30-06 gauge and not closing on a FIELD gauge?? And same .308 caliber??
Same case lenght and same shoulder angle??

Even the 30-03 had a 65 mm case lenght...too much difference, if it was the case the FIELD gauge would close.

The receiver has Nazi stampings and it was made in 1938 (same stampings and year of my own 98 sporter) so definitely was an original 8 mm rifle. The sporterization was done at least after that year....the 30-03 was already long gone I think.

By the way the blueing of the receiver matches perfectly the blueing of the barrel...

Assuming that the M98 action didn't start off as a 30-06, it must have been re-barreled. I thought it was a Federal requirement to have caliber stamps on the new barrel ?

The rifle may have been modified outside the US or before the Federal requirements...who knows..

 

[NCsmitty]

It's possible the caliber stamp is under the wood?

If the gauges fit and it's fairly accurate, then go ahead and shoot it.

NCsmitty

 

[saturno_v]

It's possible the caliber stamp is under the wood?

If the gauges fit and it's fairly accurate, then go ahead and shoot it.

NCsmitty

I don't know but I don't think he want to take out the wood and look at it....

 

[GooseGestapo]

New rifles are required to have the caliber stamp, but many gunsmiths will send out a rebarrelling without any caliber stamping at all.

I know, because I rebarreled my Mauser MkX I bought new in 1975 to .338/06 in 2003 with a barrel that I personally obtained and supplied to him. I had to take it back and insist that he stamp the caliber on the barrel. He gladly complied, but wondered "why", its your rifle?!

FWIW, I also had a double charge with a cast bullet load that I was afraid might have caused some alteration (set-back) on my headspace.

It too would accept a NO=GO gauge, but would not accept a Field gauge. After measuring a number of cases that were fired before the offending round, I could detect no change in the cartridges. Everything worked as It was when it was new.

I'm convinced that you have a perfectly normal .30/06 chamber thats nominal in every way. Just the run of the mill "loose" chamber. Just like most of the rifles in existance. The only "tight" .30/06 chamber I've ever encountered is on my Colt "Light Rifle". It is match grade tight even down to a short throat that allows a Sierra Pt.Spt. to touch the rifling at 3.310". Normal "Max OAL" for a .30/06 is typically 3.340".
Velocities run to the high side with normal pressure signs, and accuracy is superlative. So, I'm not complaining!!!!!!

 

[Art Eatman]

"...he went through few boxes of ammo during the weekend and the brass did look perfect, no signs of overstress, splitting, flattened primers, etc..."

That, plus the comments from Hornady would relieve me of any concern about future use.

Me, I wouldn't worry about it...

 

[Jim K]

"It closes on a NO-GO but won't close on a Field gauge."

That is PERFECTLY NORMAL! I don't know where people got the idea that closing on a NO-GO is bad.

GO and NO-GO gauges are used in factories, or when rechambering or installing a barrel. They are "factory specs." Any significant use or wear will result in the bolt closing on a NO-GO gauge.

There is no problem unless the rifle closes on a FIELD REJECT gauge, which indicates the rifle has or is close to excess headspace.

Let me draw a comparison. You buy a set of new tires. You know the factory tread depth spec is .33-.35".

So when the tread wears down to .32", you buy new tires because they are no longer factory spec. Of course, you don't get much wear out of the tires, which are still almost new, and you spend a lot of money. The wear ridges in the tire are the "Field gauge" for tires; tires are OK until they reach that point.

Jim