I am getting things together to weld a new bolt handle on a Spanish Mauser. I've found several heat sinks but they are all advertised as fitting a 98 Mauser. Will the same heat sink fit the 93/96 Mausers that fit the 98's? If not does anyone know where to find one for a 93? Thanks in advance.
Mauser bolt heat sink question
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rcmodel
Member in memoriam
No, different thread & interior bolt size.
I have done a lot of them with nothing more then a wet red shop towel wrapped around the rear end, and a turned steel rod slip-fitted inside the bolt. No problems so far.
You could also pack the bolt with Heat Stop paste from Brownell's.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=1121&title=HEAT STOP? HEAT CONTROL PASTE
rc
I have done a lot of them with nothing more then a wet red shop towel wrapped around the rear end, and a turned steel rod slip-fitted inside the bolt. No problems so far.
You could also pack the bolt with Heat Stop paste from Brownell's.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=1121&title=HEAT STOP? HEAT CONTROL PASTE
rc
I was under the impression that the heat sink protected the threads more than anything else. Did you guys cut threads on the rods you made? I don't have access to a lathe but can find something that will work if it doesn't have to be threaded. I was planning on using heat control paste in conjunction with the heat sink.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
The heat control paste will protect the threads.
I have done them without even that though.
You just have to work fast and not get the bolt body all that hot.
A big vice & wet rag will soak up a lot of heat from the bolt body while you weld on the handle.
It would be an even simpler matter today with all the TIG, MIG, and wire-feed welders.
Used to have to do it with an acetylene torch!
Another less intrusive method is to forge the existing bolt handle into shape using a bolt forging block. The big steel block protects the bolt.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/productdetail.aspx?p=1019&st=bolt forging block&s=
rc
I have done them without even that though.
You just have to work fast and not get the bolt body all that hot.
A big vice & wet rag will soak up a lot of heat from the bolt body while you weld on the handle.
It would be an even simpler matter today with all the TIG, MIG, and wire-feed welders.
Used to have to do it with an acetylene torch!
Another less intrusive method is to forge the existing bolt handle into shape using a bolt forging block. The big steel block protects the bolt.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/productdetail.aspx?p=1019&st=bolt forging block&s=
rc
Thanks again for the help rcmodel. I am always glad to see you respond to my questions. I'll press on and use as much caution as possible. I've already cut off the old and shaped a new handle so forging is out. Got any suggestions for a good rod for stick welding. I was considering 1/16" 6013's because that's the best I could find locally.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Not sure about the 6013 rod. It should work good, but be sure and do some practice welds and grind them down to check for any inclusions or slag pockets before you use it on the bolt.
Brownell's sells this for gas welding bolt handles.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/productdetail.aspx?p=594&st=welding rod&s=
BTW: I'm sure you know this, but cool the bolt down slowly after welding by splashing on water, or a wet rag.
If you just dunk it in water, it will harden it like glass.
rc
Brownell's sells this for gas welding bolt handles.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/productdetail.aspx?p=594&st=welding rod&s=
BTW: I'm sure you know this, but cool the bolt down slowly after welding by splashing on water, or a wet rag.
If you just dunk it in water, it will harden it like glass.
rc
nitetrane98
Member
6013 is a very good all-purpose, mild steel rod. It is used a lot on thinner metals because it doesn't penetrate very much. 7018 might be a better choice because you're going to need penetration into each side of your pieces. When I used to be a welder when it had to be strong we used 7018, when it just had to be in one piece, 6013. 6013 is a somewhat easier to weld with though. Since you'll probably have to start and stop a lot to keep your temp down, be sure to grind out any slag at the start and stop point. I could be all wrong as I welded pressure vessels, not rifle bolts.
A TIG or MIG would certainly be the best way to go.
A TIG or MIG would certainly be the best way to go.
The main thing the heat sink protects is the locking lugs. If they become soft, trouble is on the way.
Without a heat sink of some kind, the lugs can get too hot even if the work is being done on the rear of the bolt.
FWIW, I always forged down the bolt handle; I have seen too many welded ones come off.
Jim
Without a heat sink of some kind, the lugs can get too hot even if the work is being done on the rear of the bolt.
FWIW, I always forged down the bolt handle; I have seen too many welded ones come off.
Jim
BornAgainBullseye
Member
If you have seen welded on bolt handles break. then you have seen them incorrectly done! If you radius the bolt handle to a point like a pencil and fill it up with weld it will be stronger than you can imagine. Personally I use TIG and have never had a problem. The problem is wanna be know it alls with welders attempting something they have no business doing in the first place. After you weld the bolt I usually stick it in oil to cool it. It will allow the metal to cool at a rate much better than air and will properly temper the material you are working with
NCsmitty
Member
Nothing works as well as a wet rag to keep vital parts protected. Welding a bolt handle puts heat very near the cocking cam area. If you soften that cam up, you might as well throw that bolt body away. That's what the heat sink is for, not the bolt's front lugs.
If you take the time to isolate everything except what you need to weld, you'll be fine. Just minimize the heat application time.
NCsmitty
If you take the time to isolate everything except what you need to weld, you'll be fine. Just minimize the heat application time.
NCsmitty
krs
Member
They make 1/16" farmer's rod (6013)?
Gonna' have to look for some of that Smallest I've ever seen anywhere was 3/16".
Anyway, I'd bury the front of the bolt in a can of wet sand. It'll hold your work end any way you like.
Gonna' have to look for some of that Smallest I've ever seen anywhere was 3/16".
Anyway, I'd bury the front of the bolt in a can of wet sand. It'll hold your work end any way you like.
dirtyjim
Member
a 98 heat sink will work on a 93 bolt. threads are the same, only difference is on a 98 they start about .450 farther down the bolt.
if your worried about softening the cocking cam area just send the action & bolt along with $100 to blanchards to be recarburised after you weld the bolt handle
if your worried about softening the cocking cam area just send the action & bolt along with $100 to blanchards to be recarburised after you weld the bolt handle
Clark
Member
We have been putting welding paste in and on the bolt body as well as the home made buttressing threaded brass heat sink.
That goes for welding OR forging.
That goes for welding OR forging.
BBBBill
Member
I use a heat sink and heat control paste on my jobs. Belt and suspenders.... I get my heat control paste at the plumbing supply store. LACO is the brand name. It is easier to work with than the Brownells paste.
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