WardenWolf
member
Flitz polish is what you want. It's non-abrasive, does not harm blued finishes, and is a general excellent choice. I used it on most of my milsurps and you would not believe the decades of crud I got off them.
Mauser. Please help me identify
- Thread starter PJ-Hunter
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Float Pilot
Member
In case you are ever looking at Mausers again... a couple basic's.
The older small ring Mausers like the M-93, M-95 and Swedish m-94, m-96 and M-38. All cock on closing. The stronger M-98s, the Yugo M-48s ( a slightly shorter M-98) cock on opening.
Also the older small ring Mausers have a smaller cocking piece (Bolt Shroud to some people) without the gas shield. This is the part on the rear of the bolt which holds the safety lever.
Here is a photo of a Czech made Vz-24 rifle. (a M-98) that was made during the late 1920s. Note how the section with the safety flares out when it meets the bolt handle area. that was done to keep gas from blowing back into the shooters eye if the cartridge case ruptured.
The next photo shows two Swedish Small Ring Mausers. You can see how the cocking piece (bolt shroud) is smaller and does not flare out.
The older small ring Mausers like the M-93, M-95 and Swedish m-94, m-96 and M-38. All cock on closing. The stronger M-98s, the Yugo M-48s ( a slightly shorter M-98) cock on opening.
Also the older small ring Mausers have a smaller cocking piece (Bolt Shroud to some people) without the gas shield. This is the part on the rear of the bolt which holds the safety lever.
Here is a photo of a Czech made Vz-24 rifle. (a M-98) that was made during the late 1920s. Note how the section with the safety flares out when it meets the bolt handle area. that was done to keep gas from blowing back into the shooters eye if the cartridge case ruptured.
The next photo shows two Swedish Small Ring Mausers. You can see how the cocking piece (bolt shroud) is smaller and does not flare out.
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Maverick223
Member
I would remove the action before working on the metal or the wood. Removing the stock (or most any other part) is a very simple process on a Mauser, and will allow you to work in areas that are inaccessible with the furniture attached.
I can't precisely date it, but if memory serves me I believe that all were imported between the mid-30s and the late-40s.
I can't precisely date it, but if memory serves me I believe that all were imported between the mid-30s and the late-40s.
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That is a 1898 mauser bolt...............
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On the 1898, the front locking lug does not go out past the bolt face...........
Maverick223
Member
...and you'll notice that there is a third locking lug in the rear of the bolt (little hunk behind the aft part of the extractor), that feature is absent on the sm. ring variants.
Maverick223
Member
It's the same rifle as when the thread started...it was always a good, solid rifle.
BTW, I think I should clarify my previous statement regarding the date, they were imported to Venezuela (from FN in Beligium) from the mid-30s to late-40s, it arrived stateside much later after being retired from military service.
BTW, I think I should clarify my previous statement regarding the date, they were imported to Venezuela (from FN in Beligium) from the mid-30s to late-40s, it arrived stateside much later after being retired from military service.
jimmyraythomason
Member
The bayonet lug has been cut off of the nose cap. The hole is for the cleaning rod to be inserted into the stock.
jimmyraythomason
Member
This is a good place to start. <http://books.google.com/books?id=PmyS7xaZQ78C&pg=PA397&lpg=PA397&dq=venezuelan+fn-24/30&source=bl&ots=JK2HnzBDbV&sig=ZQvDy8emivF577TBHyQyeIOFPDo&hl=en&sa=X&ei=iCL8T4f9JZKq8ASEnqj1Bg&ved=0CFwQ6AEwAw#v=onepage&q=venezuelan%20fn-24%2F30&f=false>
Maverick223
Member
^That is a decent start...click here for an easier to follow link.
I can't accurately date it (the Venezuelans didn't date their rifles, so this is tricky), but according to this reference a guy named: Maçon Isidor proved the rifle. He proved FN barrels from 1929-1953, which doesn't yield much useful information. There appears to be a FN date code (the semi-X looking mark), but I can't see it in your photo very well and don't know how accurate your drawing of the proofs is. It most looks most like a lower case "x", "y" or Greek letter gamma, which corresponds with 1945, 1946, & 1950 respectively (and Mr. Isidor was proving barrels at during that period, so any of the above fit). Take a large macro photo of the barrel proofs and maybe we can pare that down to a definitive date. Fortunately the European manufacturers were notorious for proofmarking the heck out of their rifles, so it can be dated, it just takes a little research.
Additionally, there are two models (there isn't really an FN 24/30) on a intermediate length action (the model 1924) and standard length action (the model 1930), so if it turns out to be an early date (which I don't believe will turn out to be the case) you can determine which of the two it is. IIRC there is also a receiver screw that you can use to determine which of the two it is, but I don't recall how to do that (perhaps someone else can chime in and shed a little light).
I can't accurately date it (the Venezuelans didn't date their rifles, so this is tricky), but according to this reference a guy named: Maçon Isidor proved the rifle. He proved FN barrels from 1929-1953, which doesn't yield much useful information. There appears to be a FN date code (the semi-X looking mark), but I can't see it in your photo very well and don't know how accurate your drawing of the proofs is. It most looks most like a lower case "x", "y" or Greek letter gamma, which corresponds with 1945, 1946, & 1950 respectively (and Mr. Isidor was proving barrels at during that period, so any of the above fit). Take a large macro photo of the barrel proofs and maybe we can pare that down to a definitive date. Fortunately the European manufacturers were notorious for proofmarking the heck out of their rifles, so it can be dated, it just takes a little research.
Additionally, there are two models (there isn't really an FN 24/30) on a intermediate length action (the model 1924) and standard length action (the model 1930), so if it turns out to be an early date (which I don't believe will turn out to be the case) you can determine which of the two it is. IIRC there is also a receiver screw that you can use to determine which of the two it is, but I don't recall how to do that (perhaps someone else can chime in and shed a little light).
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