Mauser project: .260 Remington
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Mr_Pale_Horse
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BC, Doping, Trajectory etc: Using Remington factory 140 grain loads, and Remington trajectory data, there is roughly 2" of trajectory difference between a 140 gr PSP 6.5x55 and a 140 gr PSP 7x57 bullet at 500 yards.
Pressure (in pounds force per square inch) X Rim Head area (inches squared) = Force applied to the bolt face and transfered to the receiver via the lug(s)
(I use parentheses since many actions bear unevenly on the lugs.)
Since the 7x57 and 260 share the same rim diameter, the only variable is chamber pressure, which is specified to be 51000 psi for the 7x57 and 60000 psi for the 260. The 6.5x55 is 55000 psi and has a slightly larger rim diameter (.480 vs .473).
If the 7x57 @ 51000 psi is considered safe in the old 95 Mauser, then:
a 260 Remingtion @ 60000 is a 17.6 % higher force load
a 6.5x55 @ 54000 is a 4.7 % higher force load (thanks to the .480 rim as opposed to the .473)
If you want a 6.5 millimeter cartridge, I recommend the 6.5x55.
Pressure (in pounds force per square inch) X Rim Head area (inches squared) = Force applied to the bolt face and transfered to the receiver via the lug(s)
(I use parentheses since many actions bear unevenly on the lugs.)
Since the 7x57 and 260 share the same rim diameter, the only variable is chamber pressure, which is specified to be 51000 psi for the 7x57 and 60000 psi for the 260. The 6.5x55 is 55000 psi and has a slightly larger rim diameter (.480 vs .473).
If the 7x57 @ 51000 psi is considered safe in the old 95 Mauser, then:
a 260 Remingtion @ 60000 is a 17.6 % higher force load
a 6.5x55 @ 54000 is a 4.7 % higher force load (thanks to the .480 rim as opposed to the .473)
If you want a 6.5 millimeter cartridge, I recommend the 6.5x55.
Mr. Pale Horse,
Thank you! that is the advise I'm looking for. Since starting this thread I have researched the Swede round and have came to the same conclusion. I believe 6.5 would be more suitable as far as longevity of my rifle. I still would like a .260, but find another way to obtain one.
Now another question for you is, I looked it up but forgot, (case diameters) will I have feeding and extraction problems to consider converting from 7x57 to 6.5?
Thank you! that is the advise I'm looking for. Since starting this thread I have researched the Swede round and have came to the same conclusion. I believe 6.5 would be more suitable as far as longevity of my rifle. I still would like a .260, but find another way to obtain one.
Now another question for you is, I looked it up but forgot, (case diameters) will I have feeding and extraction problems to consider converting from 7x57 to 6.5?
Mr_Pale_Horse
Member
Looking at both, the lips of an M38 Swede look a little wider than the 95, but it is easy to take a little metal away and smooth things up, rather than add it back.
I will see about measuring both.
I will see about measuring both.
I've made my decisions
ER Shaw barrel
6.5x55mm
chrome moly in white 26"
recessed target crown
straight fluting
#3 contour
richards microfit marksmen stock in camoflauge laminate
will take about 6 months, but I will do an update and post pics when finished
happy new year
ER Shaw barrel
6.5x55mm
chrome moly in white 26"
recessed target crown
straight fluting
#3 contour
richards microfit marksmen stock in camoflauge laminate
will take about 6 months, but I will do an update and post pics when finished
happy new year
jimmyraythomason
Member
You will be happy with the 6.5x55. Is the Richards Microfit stock finished or unfinished? My experience with Richards has been somewhat less than desirable. It took months to get,it was the wrong one when I did get it. After several more weeks I finally got the right stock but it was a lot less than the 95% finished that was advertised. Nice stock after I finally got it done but had I known......
Offhand, wasn't ignoring you. Just can't find the two articles that prompted my statement (there here somewhere in this mess of an office of mine). Personally, I don't own a .260 and have no direct experience, so I could be totally off base. I'll keep looking, though...
jimmyraythomason,
I cant decide if I'm going to risk ordering an unfinished or "95 %" finished that they advertise. I have read mixed reviews on them, some say they was quite pleased with the stock, other say 3-5 stocks they have order was great, and then some have had horrible results but it seemed that Richards was willing to work with them on the problems and I'm not real sure about the barrel counter of Shaw's #3 to have it inletted by Richards who offer a #3 inlett. Probably go with the full action inlet and cut my barrel channel myself. They offer 1/16th over cut for bedding but I dont think I'll risk it.
I cant decide if I'm going to risk ordering an unfinished or "95 %" finished that they advertise. I have read mixed reviews on them, some say they was quite pleased with the stock, other say 3-5 stocks they have order was great, and then some have had horrible results but it seemed that Richards was willing to work with them on the problems and I'm not real sure about the barrel counter of Shaw's #3 to have it inletted by Richards who offer a #3 inlett. Probably go with the full action inlet and cut my barrel channel myself. They offer 1/16th over cut for bedding but I dont think I'll risk it.
jimmyraythomason
Member
lpd843,the stock I received from them was good quality wood. Beautifully grained walnut,rated no.1 semi-fancy with rosewood fore-end tip and grip cap. RM installed a Pachmayr Decelerator recoil pad. Recoil pad installation was flawless. My problem aside from the fiasco of just GETTING my stock was the very rough condition and work left to do to a 95% finished stock.
dirtyjim
Member
thats because military swede barrels have a faster twist than most aftermarket 6.5 barrels reguardless of the chambering. most aftermarket 6.5 barrels are a 1-9 twist & most swede barrels are 1-8 twist. i have several barrels in 1-8 & several in 1-9. if 1-8 is available i will go with it over 1-9 even though most of the 1-9 barrels will still shoot 140grainers just fine.
er shaw is great for a budget build. for an additional $70 they will true the action, install the barrel, chamber & crown the barrel.
send the bolt to accu-tig in alaska for a new bolt handle first.
i've always thought the 250 & 300 savage were good calibers for 93 & 95 mauser builds
Olympus
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That's a Richards stock in my pictures. I've done several threads on my experience with them. Bottom line, if I have other choices for a stock, I WILL NOT buy another Richards. Maybe you can do a search and find the threads I'm talking about. Someone will have a lot of woodworking to do on that stock, I'd wager.
dirtyjim, I've long read that twist rates are an issue going from light to heavy bullets in this caliber, even with the swede. The articles I'm looking for pertain to the neck limitations on the .260 with heavy bullets while maintaining OAL. It was one of the reasons Hornady went ahead with the 6.5 Creedmoor... the shorter .30 TC case allowed longer neck and better bullet grip and less case intrusion - or, something like all that. Really, I can't remember. I'll find it! You've got my curiosity pricked..
dirtyjim
Member
the .260 does have a shorter neck than the 6.5x55 swede.
the 6.5x51LPR is basically a .260 with a swede neck. you cut the chamber with a 6x5x55 reamer but you cut it .150 short then you shorten a set of 6.5x55 dies .150 to form the brass from .308 cases. then trim to 2.016"
the 6.5x51LPR is basically a .260 with a swede neck. you cut the chamber with a 6x5x55 reamer but you cut it .150 short then you shorten a set of 6.5x55 dies .150 to form the brass from .308 cases. then trim to 2.016"
Mauser project suffered fatal error. The "soft action" twisted under torque from removing the old barrel, I soaked in penatrating oil overnight and it still was fussy until I got a little aggervated and applied to much pressure, Anyone got a mauser action laying around for cheap? still determined
Mr_Pale_Horse
Member
Removing a mauser action takes an action wrench and barrel press vise (no household tools can be substituted), otherwise a severely marred and/or twisted action will result.
Samco global sells actions and barreled actions. They have some Swedes for sale; already 6.5x55.
www.samcoglobal.com
But they are not cheap.
Try gunbroker. You may find an old Oberndorf, Loewe or DWM action that has antique status and can be had without an FFL.
Samco global sells actions and barreled actions. They have some Swedes for sale; already 6.5x55.
www.samcoglobal.com
But they are not cheap.
Try gunbroker. You may find an old Oberndorf, Loewe or DWM action that has antique status and can be had without an FFL.
Samco also has 24/47 barreled actions for $150. They're regular old 8mm Mausers, so the action should be plenty strong enough 
http://www.samcoglobal.com/m24.html
http://www.samcoglobal.com/m24.html
NCsmitty
Member
Sorry to hear of your problems with the small ring Mauser, lpd843. If you intend to follow through on a custom Mauser, ArmedBear's recommendation of a 24/47 or a M48 will allow you to revert to your original choice of the 260 Rem. These are strong intermediate length actions and they do work very well with 308 length cases like the 260. You will have to get a stock to fit the unique Yugo length action, but quantities of these rifles are still available at reasonable prices.
NCsmitty
NCsmitty
jimmyraythomason
Member
The intermediate length actions are great but the standard length actions also work very well with .260/.308 length cartridges.
Olympus
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Go with the Yugo 24/47, it will be the cheapest. A M48 would be the next best thing.
You can kind of see how DIY projects can quickly turn into bubbas. If you don't have the property tools, I wouldn't recommend doing the work yourself. For my project, I could have done a lot more of the work myself. But I would rather pay more and know for a fact that everything was done correctly rather than do it myself and always wonder if I messed up somewhere.
You can kind of see how DIY projects can quickly turn into bubbas. If you don't have the property tools, I wouldn't recommend doing the work yourself. For my project, I could have done a lot more of the work myself. But I would rather pay more and know for a fact that everything was done correctly rather than do it myself and always wonder if I messed up somewhere.
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