metal shooting target

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moooose102

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how thick of steel plate do you think it would take to stop a 300 win mag (190gr), and 45/70 (405gr) jacketed full power hunting bullets? am i thinking that 1/2" is probably to light? distance of about 100 yards. maybe 3/4"? would a concave or convex surface be helpfull? or something like knurling to help break up the bullet? i also thought (probably the best idea) of angling them so the bullet would be deflected into the ground.built on a 24" cube steel frame (i could make the target fixed, or have it pivot, but that would probably weaken the whole thing? there is a LOT of energy in these calibers!
 
convex would certianly lead to the dreaded richochett I sugest the downward angle like you think and a 3/4 hard steel plate.
 
You want something like 500 Brinnel (aka AR500, rifle steel, armor steel) hardness steel. 3/8" thickness will be sufficient, but you can go with 1/2" to be safe. We have shot 300 Win mag at my MGM brand targets at 100 yards with no problems.

If you use soft steel, even very thick, you will pock it with serious craters that will render it less safe for use.

Eric notes the 'dreaded ricochet' above. Every bullet hitting the steel will ricochet. Normal steel targets have this happen as splatter, however.

You want a simple flat surface. You can have it angled down as suggested. That is a terrific idea.
 
As 00 says, it need not be particularly thick, but it must be HARD to resist rifle fire for any length of time. I'd want half inch at 100 yards. It should be SMOOTH and turned around when it gets cratered or cupped, then replaced when both sides are roughened.

A SLIGHT back angle is ok, maybe 15 degrees tops. A stand that will allow the plate to swing will soak up some of the impact. If a small plate you might have to have stops to keep it from spinning clear around its support.

The other requirement is to not sneak up on it, and keep the riff-raff out.
My club (actually me and two others) set out armor plate plinking plates on the 100 yard rifle range and 7-50 yard pistol range. So the damphools here shot the mild steel stands, closed in on the rifle plates, and shot the pistol plate with rifles just to get the thrill of seeing a hole or crater.
 
yeah, if only at 100 yrds, i'd want 1/2" although 3/8 is what most people use. (most people shoot steel farther away)

remember, speed kills. a 220 swift will do more damage than the 300 WM.

also, if you just let the target swing, you'll find the bullet fragments conveniently piled in a little line right underneath the target. i hang mine with a wide strap of leather. i like leather because it can take quite a lot of hits and it just pokes holes. if you use chains, one hit and the target falls and you have to hike back out there with a new chain to re-hang it
 
if you use chains, one hit and the target falls and you have to hike back out there with a new chain to re-hang it

Naw, smart money is on using "C" links (single chain links with a side segment nibbled out to make a C shape that inserts in place of a broken link), smart/quick links (http://www.drillspot.com/products/450584/Reese_700791142_Quick_Link), or other sorts of replacement links. My chains often take multiple hits. It just simply depends on the impact.
 
Check the yellow pages in your area for metal dealers, steel suppliers, metal fabricators, scrap metal yards, etc. Often there will be a scrap of hardplate lying around that is not big enough for commercial purposes but plenty good enough for what you want. Remember, hard plate only!!
 
Be ready to lay out large buck for AR steel and for any thick steel. We have boatyards near and one man made me four man kins similar to TQ21s. The are steeply angled and are pocking deeply, and they are 1" thick. I think we will hang a plate in front of them so it will be better able to absorb the shock. We are shooting 7.62s.
 
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