Mineral oil on a stock?

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Okay, so a quick search didn't quite turn up the answer I'm looking for.

I have a wood stock that has what appears to me to be a couple "dry" spots in the checkering. It looks like it's finished fine, but like through handling that those spots have just been worn a little, they're not quite an even color with the surrounding areas.

My specific question is regarding the use of mineral oil to "freshen up" the finish a little. Would a light coating and wipe-down work ok?

When I searched I found many references to mineral spirits, but not mineral oil. Are they one in the same, or different?

I have used mineral oil on exotic hardwood items before with good effect, but I'm wondering if it might be different on a gun stock made of a more "local" wood.

Thanks in advance.
 
Mineral spirits is basically paint thinner and isn't mineral oil. Isn't mineral oil "baby oil"? I wouldn't use that on my wood as I know for a fact baby oil will rot cloth but don't know about wood.
Mix mineral spirits and linseed oil till it is the thickness you want and use that on your wood. At least that is what I would use if not just straight linseed oil.
Some guys recommend tung oil, it is a good product also, and at times I use it or a mixture of both.
 
Thanks^

Is that for finishing raw wood? or is it also good for touch-up, light coating over everything?
 
I have even use it both new and as touch up on a varnished ( it looked like varnish ) and scratched older stocks with good results, and or a light coat over everything.
 
Easiest & fastest is to buy a bottle of Birchwood-Casey Tru-Oil Stock Finish at any gun shop or probably Wally-World.
https://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=4952&title=TRU-OIL+STOCK+FINISH

Use just a small dab and work it into the checkering with an old toothbrush.

It will dry to a durable finish overnight and will match the old finish as close as it is possible to do.

DO NOT USE MINERAL OIL, or any other petroleum based oil product on wood stocks.

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rcmodel
 
Just a bump to say thanks, again. I'll wait until I get my hands on the right stuff. Next time I find myself at the fun shop I'll pick up some of that Tru-Oil and give it a go.
 
Wal-Mart carries Tru-Oil too, if that's more convenient. I agree with Rcmodel's recommendation of it for touchups.
 
Tru-oil dries fairly "glossy" by the way. Is that the way your stock looks?

Often you'll read people "cutting" Tru-oil with mineral spirits for checkering also. Makes it thinner, soaks in better for checkering without building up.
 
Regarding your original question...Mineral oil is used where food is being cut on butcher blocks. That is the oil that is ok'ed for that particular purpose.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mineral_oil

Linseed is the oil you are looking for to brighten up your stock, some becomes hard (boiled) other does not. The product "Tru oil" is basic boiled linseed.

Mineral spirits is the solvent used to clean certain items. It is also considered a cheap product, compared to turpentine, not to be used around food.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Turpentine
 
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Tru-oil dries fairly "glossy" by the way.
It does if you let it.
For checkering touch-up, it generally soaks into the grain and dulls down.

If it appears to still be too glossy when drying has started, give it another shot of toothbrush while it's still tacky and knock the gloss off before it completely sets up.

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rcmodel
 
I rub it down with 0000 steel wool to degloss for a handrubbed satin finish. Works for me and is recommended by the manufacturer. The manufacturer suggests using rubbing compound too but I haven't found it necessary for the finish I like.

According to Birchwood Casey (the manufacturer) linseed oil is only one component of Tru-Oil:

Its unique blend of linseed and natural oils dries fast and will not cloud, yellow or crack with age and resists water damage.

The MSD reports that by weight there is <11% linseed oil and <33% "modified oil" in it. The balance is mineral spirits. The MSD does not specify boiled linseed oil and Tru-Oil works differently from boiled linseed oil in my own experience.
 
Care should be taken when buying Linseed or tung oil, read the label you want "pure" linseed oil that is does not contain petroleum distillates.
 
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