I've had the thing bore sighted, field sighted... It seems like it's about as poor shooting as a compact 9mm at 100 yards... I bought it new, sent it back, the barrel is straight. The factory "tested and approved it". No wind, sandbag rested , hand loads, commercial loads... I'm about to give up on this pos... Is there any thing else I can do? I love the rifle, it's just not accurate!
Mini 14 that lousy?
- Thread starter mopar92
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Hunterdad
Member
My buddy had the same problem. He gave up on it and went with an AR instead.
sansone
Member
years ago I bought a new "plain-jane" blue mini 14.. after many attempts found it had unacceptable accuracy. I sold it and bought another. This time a NEW stainless "Ranch" model, unacceptable accuracy again. Really wanted to keep the gun so sent it to ruger with a nice letter describing my fondness of the gun, just need it to shoot tighter groups.. They returned it saying nicely, nothing wrong just find ammo it likes. I spent a small fortune on different brands and types of 223 ammo only to find the rifle won't shoot tight groups.
earlthegoat2
Member
First of all: What are everyones definitions of inaccurate??
I think 2 inch groups at 100 yds is suitable for this rifle. Everyone is so obsessed and spoiled with accuracy from their bolt guns they think it should carry over into every different action type. True, ARs are pretty accurate, but they also have really tight tolerances.
Mini-14s are pretty well known for not having the greatest accuracy. Any internet search would have yielded that information.
You need to get a good trigger job done and have the disconnector reset so there is less travel in it, you can drastically reduce your groups. It will never be as accurate as an AR I dont think though. Plus they have those really pathetic sights on them. You almost have to get some kind of scope.
I think the Mini design is inherently more reliable than the AR so you are getting that.
Having said all this I would still rather have the Mini than an AR.
I think 2 inch groups at 100 yds is suitable for this rifle. Everyone is so obsessed and spoiled with accuracy from their bolt guns they think it should carry over into every different action type. True, ARs are pretty accurate, but they also have really tight tolerances.
Mini-14s are pretty well known for not having the greatest accuracy. Any internet search would have yielded that information.
You need to get a good trigger job done and have the disconnector reset so there is less travel in it, you can drastically reduce your groups. It will never be as accurate as an AR I dont think though. Plus they have those really pathetic sights on them. You almost have to get some kind of scope.
I think the Mini design is inherently more reliable than the AR so you are getting that.
Having said all this I would still rather have the Mini than an AR.
A tip for the mini 14 owners.
I thought I would do a post showing the 1911 buffer installation. It's the same for any buffer. I just use the 1911 because they are cheap (), they fit, they work, and come in 6-packs
The buffer goes on the recoil spring at the recoil spring/guide rod/receiver junction. You just grab the recoil spring & guide rod as one unit, pull it out of the buffer and buffer cross pin assembly and slip the 1911 buffer on the spring/guide rod over it, with the curved side toward the barrel. Pay special attention to the Tang on the guide rod when you pull it out of the buffer assembly and reinstall. The tang rests on the cross pin and there is only one position that will allow the op rod to cycle correctly. The Tang of the guide rod should always be facing to the top of the mini or the hand guard whichever is easiest to remember. I just remember TT, for Tang Top. There is no tang on the older standard mini 14’s, the guide rod just fits into a recess. The tang is only found on the newer minis with the built in scope mounts (tactical) and ranch mini’s, old & new. No need to completely remove the recoil spring and guide rod, just pull it back an inch or two to allow enough space to slip the buffer on.
I'm sold on the buffers, they absorb the impact of the op rod into the receiver and prevent metal to metal contact. One buffer should last 500-1000 rounds, they usually come in packs of 6, so one pack should last a long time. A pack usually costs anywhere form $6 to $8 dollars. I use the Wilson brand, there are other brands with different reputations for durability and softness. Some people use them on the front over the gas pipe in the gas block to absorb the front slam of the op rod into the gas block. I always thought they would melt, but after giving one away and having a couple of hundred rounds go through that mini I could see no signs of it melting. But one thing for sure it was taking a lot of impact from the op rod. I plan to try one there in the future. But as I am now working on trying different size gas bushings I am looking to start from a stock position for the gas system and ejection. A buffer in the front will hold the op rod back slightly from seating onto the gas block pipe. It may not matter, but for the gas bushing testing I am doing I don't want to add another variable to the mix right now.
I have not heard of any negative reports from people using the 1911 buffers at the back, but I have heard of reports of some of the commercial mini buffers being to thick and not allowing the bolt to go back far enough to cycle the rounds. In that case people are either shaving the buffer down or cutting them in two making 2 buffers out of 1.
For those that dont no what they are looking at. it is the Blue rubber bushing. This trick really helps with the beating a scope takes on a Mini
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct...tnumber=241631
Another very good cheap upgrade is a strut. It will cut MOA by 1/2 if not more. Pluss your mini will look more like a M-14.http://www.accu-strut.com/pages/application guide.htm
& last but not least. this probably is the best bang for your buck IMO when trying to improve barrel accuracy on older Mini & Ranch rifles.
http://www.cryopro.com/gun.html
http://www.perfectunion.com/vb/index.php these tricks all came from Perfectunion. & they all work.
I thought I would do a post showing the 1911 buffer installation. It's the same for any buffer. I just use the 1911 because they are cheap (), they fit, they work, and come in 6-packs
The buffer goes on the recoil spring at the recoil spring/guide rod/receiver junction. You just grab the recoil spring & guide rod as one unit, pull it out of the buffer and buffer cross pin assembly and slip the 1911 buffer on the spring/guide rod over it, with the curved side toward the barrel. Pay special attention to the Tang on the guide rod when you pull it out of the buffer assembly and reinstall. The tang rests on the cross pin and there is only one position that will allow the op rod to cycle correctly. The Tang of the guide rod should always be facing to the top of the mini or the hand guard whichever is easiest to remember. I just remember TT, for Tang Top. There is no tang on the older standard mini 14’s, the guide rod just fits into a recess. The tang is only found on the newer minis with the built in scope mounts (tactical) and ranch mini’s, old & new. No need to completely remove the recoil spring and guide rod, just pull it back an inch or two to allow enough space to slip the buffer on.
I'm sold on the buffers, they absorb the impact of the op rod into the receiver and prevent metal to metal contact. One buffer should last 500-1000 rounds, they usually come in packs of 6, so one pack should last a long time. A pack usually costs anywhere form $6 to $8 dollars. I use the Wilson brand, there are other brands with different reputations for durability and softness. Some people use them on the front over the gas pipe in the gas block to absorb the front slam of the op rod into the gas block. I always thought they would melt, but after giving one away and having a couple of hundred rounds go through that mini I could see no signs of it melting. But one thing for sure it was taking a lot of impact from the op rod. I plan to try one there in the future. But as I am now working on trying different size gas bushings I am looking to start from a stock position for the gas system and ejection. A buffer in the front will hold the op rod back slightly from seating onto the gas block pipe. It may not matter, but for the gas bushing testing I am doing I don't want to add another variable to the mix right now.
I have not heard of any negative reports from people using the 1911 buffers at the back, but I have heard of reports of some of the commercial mini buffers being to thick and not allowing the bolt to go back far enough to cycle the rounds. In that case people are either shaving the buffer down or cutting them in two making 2 buffers out of 1.
For those that dont no what they are looking at. it is the Blue rubber bushing. This trick really helps with the beating a scope takes on a Mini
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct...tnumber=241631
Another very good cheap upgrade is a strut. It will cut MOA by 1/2 if not more. Pluss your mini will look more like a M-14.http://www.accu-strut.com/pages/application guide.htm
& last but not least. this probably is the best bang for your buck IMO when trying to improve barrel accuracy on older Mini & Ranch rifles.
http://www.cryopro.com/gun.html
http://www.perfectunion.com/vb/index.php these tricks all came from Perfectunion. & they all work.
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My AK 74 Bulgarian shoots 3 inch group at 100 yds. Thats pretty good in my book. If the Mini 14 shoots 2 inch at 100 yds, thats a a lot better. In case of a societal breakdown like what we re seeing in Cairo, the Bulgy 74 will be my choice, very light recoil, easy to carry and hi cap mags. The Mni 14 will also make a good SHTF rifle i have no doubt about it. Remember the riots of the late 60s and 1991 LA chaos. A light semi auto rifle is a comforting companion in times like that.
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I'm too danged old (67) to be a "fanboy". What I AM is a rifleman of some sixty years'
experience.
Around December of '09 I bought a "Deluxe" Mini (Circassian walnut stock) and mounted a Leupold 1-4X Mark AR scope in its Ruger rings.
I removed the Ruger flash-hider and installed an L1A1 'hider (from the British FN-FAL)...this looks better and allows mounting of the British L2A3 bayonet(!). No other alterations of any sort have been done.
The rifle has never fired a factory-loaded cartridge. The handload is a 55 Hornady V-max with 26.0 grains of H335, sparked by CCI 400 primers, in Lake City military cases.
The rifle delivers RELIABLE 10-shot groups of 1.00 to 1.25 inches from 100 yard benchrest, as long as I don't overheat it. Reliability has been perfect. For an essentially service-type rifle, what more could I want? I have a full-size old-style IPSC silhouette cut from 3/8" AR500 steel, and the Mini lands 100% hits in the "A" zone from 300 yards (rested). Again, what more can I want? It's also accurate enough for 100-150 yard ground squirrels when I tire of blasting them with the .22-250.
On top of all this, it's FUN. I have a nice Armalite AR which I also esteem highly, but the two rifles are just.....different. I greatly enjoy both of them.
I'll be darned.....maybe I AM a fanboy!
experience.
Around December of '09 I bought a "Deluxe" Mini (Circassian walnut stock) and mounted a Leupold 1-4X Mark AR scope in its Ruger rings.
I removed the Ruger flash-hider and installed an L1A1 'hider (from the British FN-FAL)...this looks better and allows mounting of the British L2A3 bayonet(!). No other alterations of any sort have been done.
The rifle has never fired a factory-loaded cartridge. The handload is a 55 Hornady V-max with 26.0 grains of H335, sparked by CCI 400 primers, in Lake City military cases.
The rifle delivers RELIABLE 10-shot groups of 1.00 to 1.25 inches from 100 yard benchrest, as long as I don't overheat it. Reliability has been perfect. For an essentially service-type rifle, what more could I want? I have a full-size old-style IPSC silhouette cut from 3/8" AR500 steel, and the Mini lands 100% hits in the "A" zone from 300 yards (rested). Again, what more can I want? It's also accurate enough for 100-150 yard ground squirrels when I tire of blasting them with the .22-250.
On top of all this, it's FUN. I have a nice Armalite AR which I also esteem highly, but the two rifles are just.....different. I greatly enjoy both of them.
I'll be darned.....maybe I AM a fanboy!
earlthegoat2
Member
Good info husker.
A used Mini 14 and the cost of some of those mods will still bring your Mini 14 to you for less than an AR. May not be as accurate yet, but who cares. Minis are not ARs. They are a bit of a different animal working off of a different action system.
Im still curious what these "unacceptable" groups are.
A used Mini 14 and the cost of some of those mods will still bring your Mini 14 to you for less than an AR. May not be as accurate yet, but who cares. Minis are not ARs. They are a bit of a different animal working off of a different action system.
Im still curious what these "unacceptable" groups are.
This is a wood/stainless Ranch. I took it to a very good friend of mine after Ruger "reapproved" it. This buddy of mine is a retired army Ranger and is head of SWAT for his pretty large town outside Atlanta. We went to his range, and he fired at least 10 different rounds , including a range of bullet weights. I am not kidding you, if all 10 rounds hit a paper plate at 125 yards, we high fived each other... That's inaccurate to me. My old worn out Mosin can poke holes with a 9" group at 125 yards!
I heard from gun club members 10 yrs ago that the Mini 14 were inaccurate esp the older models. But the recent ones made 5 yrs ago are really tack drivers. Could it be the older barrels are oversized bores and causing the bullets to wobble. Try slugging a round into the muzzle crown. If it swallows the whole bullet, its no good. If it shows some of the bullet, it is tight.
Sorry Earl, but you can get a quality AR for considerably less than a Mini. Using www.budsgunshop.com as a reference Mini's are selling for between $640-$800. Figure shipping and transfer fees and you have a $700-$850 gun.
My last AR cost me $650 out the door with sales tax included. The rifle came with a hard case, telescoping stock, cleaning kit and 2-30 round magzines. Add those accesories to the cost of a Mini, pay sales tax on it and you add another $150 or more to the cost of a Mini. The 30 round mini mags are $40-$50 each.
Mine shoots 3/4" groups with GA Arms bulk ammo at 100 yards out of the box with no modifictions
The Mini's generally are very reliable, but 2-3" groups at 100 yards are considered excellent for the rifle with horror stories like the OP not uncommon. When I could get one for under $300 used I bought and used several over the years. At $300 or so I'd recommend one, but not when you can get a very good, much more accurate rifle in an AR for much less money.
My last AR cost me $650 out the door with sales tax included. The rifle came with a hard case, telescoping stock, cleaning kit and 2-30 round magzines. Add those accesories to the cost of a Mini, pay sales tax on it and you add another $150 or more to the cost of a Mini. The 30 round mini mags are $40-$50 each.
Mine shoots 3/4" groups with GA Arms bulk ammo at 100 yards out of the box with no modifictions
The Mini's generally are very reliable, but 2-3" groups at 100 yards are considered excellent for the rifle with horror stories like the OP not uncommon. When I could get one for under $300 used I bought and used several over the years. At $300 or so I'd recommend one, but not when you can get a very good, much more accurate rifle in an AR for much less money.
earlthegoat2
Member
Was your AR NIB? Just curious because you quoted a new price for the Mini and didnt mention it with the AR.
Im not a Mini 14 fanboy. I am well aware of ARs superior accuracy. Im just trying to put things in perspective for the readers of this thread.
The rumor was Ruger started putting "heavier" barrels on the more recent Minis. Apparently people are seeing the groups tightening down a bit but they are not keeping up with ARs in accuracy even after that supposed change.
That is pretty bad groups I would say, even for a Mini.
Im not a Mini 14 fanboy. I am well aware of ARs superior accuracy. Im just trying to put things in perspective for the readers of this thread.
The rumor was Ruger started putting "heavier" barrels on the more recent Minis. Apparently people are seeing the groups tightening down a bit but they are not keeping up with ARs in accuracy even after that supposed change.
That is pretty bad groups I would say, even for a Mini.
earlthegoat2
Member
Thats why I asked if it was NIB or not. Even if it was Im sure it was some kind of unique circumstance.
There is a Bushmaster for 632 on Buds right now.....proves they exist at least.
You can get Minis for cheaper than 640 though too.
Bottom line is this though: If you want accuracy then dont get a Mini.
Andrew Wyatt
Member
what size were the groups?
earlthegoat2
Member
right there
Welding Rod
Member
IMO if a rifle won't shoot 5 rounds 2" or better at 100 yards it belongs in a scrap heap.
Unfortunately I think a lot of Minis over the years haven't made that mark.
Unfortunately I think a lot of Minis over the years haven't made that mark.
They string when the barrel heats up. 10 seconds of research would have told you that.
Would you buy a 1968 AAR-TA Cuda or Challenger for $125000.00 with out doing research,& making sure it is a papered car. Or would you just lay down the money & hope it aint a knock off,some one is trying to pass as a AAR-TA.
Peeps you have to do your home work. Plain & simple.
Would you buy a 1968 AAR-TA Cuda or Challenger for $125000.00 with out doing research,& making sure it is a papered car. Or would you just lay down the money & hope it aint a knock off,some one is trying to pass as a AAR-TA.
Peeps you have to do your home work. Plain & simple.
Sell that to someone who doesn't care about accuracy. Then go for an m1a or ar of whatever configuration you like. Look into model 1 sales for uppers or complete rifle kits. You can buy complete lowers from rguns. Plus you can get a .22 upper and magazines to practice with.
VT Deer Hunter
Member
Ammo? I dont have one, there a cool gun but I have seen very accurate Mini 14s.
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