"Minimums" on a CCW 1911?

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Given that the 1911 is such a dynamic platform, I think it is one of the few models that begs the question - are there minimum requirements for a CCW 1911?

I am not necessarily interested in brands - more in the components required for a reliable carry gun.

Is it a ramped barrel - is that necessary for JHP? Is it a 'speed bump' on the grip safety? Is is a lowered/flared ejection port? Is it anything but the original combat sights?

Maybe none of this stuff is necessary, and I'd be just as happy to hear that.

I think this is a post that might benefit many readers and may be a bit different than the standard: "whatz the best 1911 for fighting ninjas in bear country," or something to that effect...

Thanks in advance!
 
Any 1911 (or any other handgun in a .45 for that matter) that will shoot 100% of the time, meets all of my requirements. Now there are thing I really like on a carry 1911 but none of them are required. As long as the gun will shoot accurately and NEVER hang up I'm happy.

Things I really like: (personal preference)
1: Night Sights
2: Flat mainspring housing
3: Lowered/flared ejection port
4: Stainless
5: Combat style hammer

Among others
 
I guess options/upgrades over a Goverment Model is
one path of the subject line/thread teaser.

First thoght I had was Minimum Barrel/Slide length, as
well as Frame size. - & part of the equation is who and
waht climate in terms of CCW. Simply looking at mods, has
little to do with optimal CCW basic requirements

Eh, it's a versaitle platform adaptable to the user.

for the record, I'd like the CCO format
4 1/4" Bbl/SLide for a regular recoil plug/spring,
better ballistics on an Officers frame, The new
S&W 1911 Compact ES has the Scandium frame,
The Sig C3 an alloy frame-just don't care for the
checkered front strap on all the Sig CCO format
models. but there are others,usually optioned up

It would be nice to find a bare bones, "GI" style
CCO. Blued.Carbon slide, with Carbon Steel
-OR- lightweight alloy models.


Randall
 
How about minimum for a .45 ACP CCW?

Heck if I mention my 625 5" Bbl. that would only
be appropriate in a bertical shoulder rig, at 45 OZ.
it might keep the thread in Handguns General DIss.

Guess the smaller revolver option from S&W right
now is the 325 NightGuard with 2.5" Bbl. which has
longer rifling than a 3" Sub-Compact/micro?

couple of full moon clips in belt holders

R-
 
Things I really like: (personal preference)
1: Night Sights
2: Flat mainspring housing
3: Lowered/flared ejection port
4: Stainless
5: Combat style hammer

I would add Ambi safety since I carry left or right handed depending on mood.
 
To be a fightin' pistol, in my book, it must be a 5" full size model and it cannot have a full length guide rod. It must have easily visible sights - I prefer a brass or large white dot up front and a plain serrated rear. It must be tested to have gone at least 600 rounds without malf. Everything else is preference and aesthetics.

My preferences are:

  • Arched MSH
  • Long trigger
  • Extended (not oversize) mag release
  • No ambi safety
  • No speed bump on grip safety
  • Colt tapered feed lip magazines

There are some things that have become 'de rigueur', such as flared/lowered ejection ports. Most any model you buy these days will 'feature' that configuration. My feeling is that as it ejects reliably, every time, then I don't care WHAT shape the ejection port is. Having seen my BHPs eject reliably thru the tiniest of ports, I cannot believe that half the slide needs to be cut away to make a pistol reliable. ;)

I am on the fence insofar as beavertails-n-Commander hammers vice the traditional wide spur hammer and grip safety. I shoot both configurations, and for target loads/softball I'm not uncomfortable with either. For smokin' loads, the beavertail is nice but it sacrifices the wide spur hammer (which I very much prefer).
 
+1 on rbernie's requirements. Except for the extended mag release, and that would be ok if it was on the pistol when I purchased it.

The closer to a 1911a1 the better.
 
I feel the closer to stock the better for a carry 1911. I could feel confident carrying a straight GI 1911 (even with the tiny sights) as long as it proved reliable and would shoot 6" at 25 yards. The changes I would make would be:

1. better fixed sights
2. feed ramp mod for feeding hps and swcs if needed.
3. open up ejection port
4. not necessarily a mod but I'm happy with a 4-5 lb trigger on a carry gun.

You really don't need all the bells and whistles for a carry gun.

Yes I do have 1911s with all the goodies but most I don't think needed on a carry gun.
 
1.)Be one of the higher quality guns: DanWesson, Colt, Kimber, Sig, Springfield
2.)anything cast or plastic has to go
3.)1911's were not desighned to be made by robots. So off it goes for reliability mods from a reputable gunsmith.
4.) Beavertail put on while at the smith
5.)Tripp cobramags ONLY!
6.) Melonite refinishing on everything possible. Rust deosn't cycle well.
7.)XS big dot combat sights
8.)At least 500 rounds down range without a failure. My Glock deos 1000, so 500 is a fair expectation.
 
Jeff Cooper said:
From the API 250 General Pistol Course student handbook, circa 1988...

Auto Pistol Modication Table

Necessary

High Visibility Sights (including ramped front)
Dehorning (rounding all sharp corners)
A good trigger (3 1/2 to 4 1/2 pounds, crisp)


Useful

Solid Bushing
Enlarged Ejection Port
Bevelled Magazine Well
Extended Thumb Safety
Throated Barrel and Polished Feed Ramp
Round and Polish Bottom of Extractor Hook
Press Fit of Firing Pin Stop
Lanyard Loop

OK

Magazine Floor Plate Pads
Colored Sights
Flat Mainspring Housing
Spring Modification to Magazine Release
Accuracy (Combat Accuracy Job - slight tightening of slide, solid bushing without being tight, fit of barrel hood, link and slide stop to barrel lugs - 3 to 5 inches at 50 yards.)

Questionable

Duck Tail Grip Safety
Ambidextrous Thumb Safety (necessary for left-handed shooters)
Custom Stocks
Stainless Steel Parts
Recoil Buffer
Trigger Stop ( for over-travel)

Objectionable

Sight Rib
Optical Sights
Triiger Shoe
Extended Slide Stop
Squared or Hooked Trigger Guard
Loaded Chamber Indicator
Double-Action Conversion
Muzzle Brake
Over-length Barrel
Extended Magazine Release
Recoil Spring Guide Rod
Long Slide
Group Gripper
Ejector Modified to Drop Brass Close
Accuracy (Maximum Accuracy Job - 1 3/4 to 2 1/2 inches at 50 yards, hard fit and lapping, maximum tightness, etc.
....
 
All of my carry guns have night sights.

The safety bump I think is an option if you NEED it. I've never had a problem with the regular safety.

I don't like ramped barrels, because I stay away from things that ate non standard. I can't use my .22 conversion kit on a pistol that uses a ramped barrel.

I added Hogue wrap-around finger grips, because I want a good grip even if it's wet.

My current carry gun has a lowered/flared, but my dad's mil-spec doesn't. I wouldn't ever have it done unless I had a pistol that was having problems.

The rule to think about for a carry gun is: "Everything you need, nothing you don't." I would start with the minimum and only change what needs to be changed.
 
Recoil spring guide rod

I installed a one-piece Wilson Combat recoil spring, one-piece guide rod and "hollow" spring cap, and plastic "recoil bumpers" (or whatever they are called) in my Combat Commander CCW carry piece, and I have never shot better or faster in my life.

My question is simply: Why does the one-piece guide rod and bumbers get such a bad rap???

Somebody please educate me!!
 
Why does the one-piece guide rod and bumbers get such a bad rap???
One of the design benefits of the 'old school' pistols such as the 1911 and the BHP is that you can completely run the gun with one hand. One facet of that is being able to cycle the action completely with one hand, with nothing more than gross motor skills required. You accomplish this by putting the flat front of the slide (where the recoil plug is on a 5" 1911) up against a table edge or other surface and then just pushing forward.

You cannot do this with any pistol that has a dust cover that extends forward too far or that has a FLGR. For those pistols, you must find alternate techniques (e.g. hooking a rear sight) to cycle the slide one-handed, and these alternatives all require greater skill and more specific circumstances in which the technique will work.
 
I like the straight up Colt Commander for a carry gun. Many of the custom parts and accesories have no business on a carry gun.

No's:
Beavertail grip safety
Extended safety
Extended slide release
Adjustable sights
Huge magazine flare bevel
Match trigger
Full length guide rod (the original solution to a nonexistent problem)
Rail

Here probably still is not the bare minimum. The bare minimum is anything that gives good reliability and still carries comfortable all within the normal 1911 parameters.
 
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