Model 10 Problem

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bernie

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My buddy brought me his Smith and Wesson Model 10 and it was bone dry. However, that is not the problem. Let me start with, it is unloaded. He cocked the revolver, and now the hammer will not release the hammer. There is no way to get the revolver uncocked as the trigger does not do anything. I am not a revolver guy. Any ideas what I need to look at?
 
First thing to check is the strain screw in the front of the grip frame.

It should be fully tightened, tight.

Also, hold the cylinder, and see if the ejector rod is coming unscrewed.
(Probably left hand thread unless the revolver is very old.)
It should be screwed in tight and you should not be able to turn the ejector rod without the cylinder turning with it.

If that doesn't help, I'll have to ponder that one for awhile.

Not a common S&W revolver problem!!!

rc
 
Let me be sure of the situation. The hammer is cocked back. Normally, pulling the trigger would let the hammer fly forward and if there were a round under the hammer, the gun would fire.

But pulling the trigger has no effect, the trigger won't move either direction and pulling it won't release the hammer.

Questions: Is the trigger fully back against the rear of the trigger guard?

Have you tried pulling the trigger while pulling the hammer back further?

Have you tried pulling the trigger while pushing the hammer forward?

Is the cylinder open (swung out) or in place in the frame?


Jim
 
rc, thanks for the lead, I will check the ejector rod as soon as I get home.

Jim, The cylinder is in the closed position. I have tried pulling the trigger and moving the hammer, and it will not go either way. Also, I believe that the trigger is all the way back, but it is not resting against the trigger guard. I will have to confirm that once I get home and look at it.
 
I am just having a hard time figuring out what would cause that problem. My first thought was the trigger stop, but a Model 10 doesn't have one.

Jim
 
Jim K said:
My first thought was the trigger stop, but a Model 10 doesn't have one.

That was my thought too, but didn't post it because I didn't think a M10 would have one...

....however...any chance a "stop's" been added inside the rebound slide? The newer guns have such a stop. Could there be one placed inside this gun's rebound slide that's just too long? Easy enough to check.
 
That's a good idea!!

I dismissed it right off hand because a Model 10 never had a trigger stop.

But that doesn't mean Bubba didn't add one later!!

rc
 
Bone dry?

First thought is to take the grips off and spray Gun Scrubber liberally in the action. Do this outside so the solvent can drop onto the ground and not the floor of your house.

Then liberally spray the insides of the action with a good gun oil. I like to use G-96. It is a bit smelly but it penetrates very well. Spray the inside of.the action, let it soak for a couple of hours, spray it liberally again and let soak overnight. Then try pulling the trigger and hammer. The company recommends giving the gun three coats.

I inherited a take-down shotgun that was bone dry. It was stored in canvas gun case and probably had not been out of the case for over 25 years. I could not separate the barrel from the receiver as it was so dry. G-96 saved the day. I swear the metal soaked up all of the first two coats of G-96. After I gave the gun a liberal 3rd coat of G-96 it started working like new and is easy to disassemble.
 
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It was a combination of a dry gun and the ejector rod being slightly unscrewed. I did tighten up the ejector rod, but that did not fix it immediately. I then worked on pulling the trigger and working the hammer, and suddenly it released and now works fine! I had actually work gun oil into it before I ever even posted on here. Thanks for all of the ideas!
 
Well, if that's what it was, you ain't done yet!!

If you don't feel qualified to take the sideplate off and clean and lube it properly.

At least take the grips off and soak it in ATF fluid for a day or two, while working the action occasionally.

Then drip-dry, and then blow all the oil out of it with an air compressor.

rc
 
The side plate really needs to come off for proper cleaning and lube. Two cautions though. Use a properly fitting screwdriver on the screws and DON'T pry on the side plate! After the screws are out, tap on the grip frame with your screwdriver handle and the side plate will pop off. When putting it back on, be sure the safety bar is in place.
 
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