I have an option to buy a s&w model 17-3 at my local gun shop at a pretty good price, but I was previously holding out for a 63-2 or earlier. I've shot the 63-2 and liked it a lot. Great little gun and fun to shoot all day. The frame size was very nice and it felt perfectly balanced in my hand. However, it may be a while before I can run across a clean 63 pre lock so it may be a test of my patience. Will the 17-3 suffice or should I hold out? Thanks!
Model 63-2 or 17-3?
- Thread starter TwoNiner
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Jim Watson
Member
I find the K frame model 17 to be steadier than the wispy little J frame guns.
I cleaned house on .22s some years back. I do not miss the 34 but wish I still had the 17 and am determined to not sell my 18.
I cleaned house on .22s some years back. I do not miss the 34 but wish I still had the 17 and am determined to not sell my 18.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
+1
The K-frame is a lot easier to shoot accurately.
But not near as handy or light in a holster for carry.
If I was getting it strictly for range / target shooting I'd get a K-22.
If I wanted a holster gun for easy packing all day it would be the J-Frame Kit Gun.
rc
The K-frame is a lot easier to shoot accurately.
But not near as handy or light in a holster for carry.
If I was getting it strictly for range / target shooting I'd get a K-22.
If I wanted a holster gun for easy packing all day it would be the J-Frame Kit Gun.
rc
This gun will strictly be for the range and plinking cans in the desert. One other consideration is the model 17 is blued vs the 63 which is stainless. I've never owned a blued gun but I imagine they require a little more care.
I just purchased an SP101 which would be my gun of choice for backpacking or such.
Does anyone know the difference in weight between these two models? I'm curious how much metal makes the noticable difference between a K-frame and J-frame as mentioned.
I just purchased an SP101 which would be my gun of choice for backpacking or such.
Does anyone know the difference in weight between these two models? I'm curious how much metal makes the noticable difference between a K-frame and J-frame as mentioned.
krs
Member
I'm biased badly toward the model 17 as it's hands down my favorite revolver, although the 4" Model 18 gets close 2nd. They aren't hard to maintain because of the blueing and they sure look nicer.
If you want to learn to shoot a pistol in the bullseye single hand style the M17 is your gun. Just as it comes it's capable of taking home gold in competitions against shooters using pistols costing many times the price, AND they aren't making S&W revolvers with the express designed purpose of doing just that. The newer guns are not built with precision shooting in mind. As bullseye shooters realize this the pistols become harder and harder to find for sale and when they are found the price is higher all the time. Grab one while you still can and don't let it go even if you become disenchanted with it. That will be a temporary condition.
If you want to learn to shoot a pistol in the bullseye single hand style the M17 is your gun. Just as it comes it's capable of taking home gold in competitions against shooters using pistols costing many times the price, AND they aren't making S&W revolvers with the express designed purpose of doing just that. The newer guns are not built with precision shooting in mind. As bullseye shooters realize this the pistols become harder and harder to find for sale and when they are found the price is higher all the time. Grab one while you still can and don't let it go even if you become disenchanted with it. That will be a temporary condition.
deputy tom
Member
TwoNiner,you should buy which one feels best in your hands. While I prefer an S&W K or J frame you might be best served in buying a Ruger .22 to be the understudy to the SP101 you already have.But only if you confirm that the SP101 works well for you.If it doesn't you might get rid if it as well.Weigh all options.YMMV.tom.
BCRider
Member
Watch your frames in all this. The 17 and 22 are K frame guns with the greater weight that brings with it. The 63 is a J frame and comes in much lighter. The 34 is J framed as well. The J's will let more recoil thru to your hand and for myself I sort of like that since it's more like shooting should be for me. There's no doubt that the K frame .22's are fine guns and deadly accurate but the greater weight means you almost have to check to see if the bullet left the barrel... OK, OK, I'm joking.... But the fact is that a 40'ish oz gun isn't going to respond much to the power of a .22LR. Meanwhile the J's at a hair under 30 oz are going to produce more effect in your hand. For myself I like that. For you I guess it's a case of deciding for yourself.
But the fact is that a 40'ish oz gun isn't going to respond much to the power of a .22LR. Meanwhile the J's at a hair under 30 oz are going to produce more effect in your hand. For myself I like that. For you I guess it's a case of deciding for yourself.
wanderinwalker
Member
Why isn't this "I just bought a 17-3 at my local shop for a good price"? Leaving a blued, K-22 looking for a good home is blasphemy. You should repent at once, march right back there and purchase. To complete the spiritual cleansing, you will need to repair to the local range ASAP and commence to tin-can slaughter. Only once the first brick is gone will you be ready for salvation. 
Seriously, K-frame .22, anywhere decent shape, BUY!! It won't be worth LESS in a year or two. I picked up an M-18 (think the 17 with 4" barrel and ramped front sight). I knew immediately I would buy it as soon as I saw it, and have not regretted the purchase since. Even dressed it up with some nice stocks.
Here, just to get your soul prepared for the its journey, some pictorial mojo:
Seriously, K-frame .22, anywhere decent shape, BUY!! It won't be worth LESS in a year or two. I picked up an M-18 (think the 17 with 4" barrel and ramped front sight). I knew immediately I would buy it as soon as I saw it, and have not regretted the purchase since. Even dressed it up with some nice stocks.
Here, just to get your soul prepared for the its journey, some pictorial mojo:
I think it was 550-575 plus 8.25% sales tax. Keep in mind I am in California. Fire arms, especially those not on the "safe list", are hard to get. Old smiths are especially expensive. Barrel is 6" and pinned. Not sure if the cylinder is recessed. Gun is practically new.
gb6491
Member
Get the M17, you will not be dissatisfied with the purchase (they are excellent revolvers), but do keep you eyes open for the 63.
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Regards,
Greg
Must counter "K" frame mojo with alternative "J" frame mojo...er, I mean here's a shot of my no dash Model 63
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Regards,
Greg
wanderinwalker
Member
Hey Greg, that's a kind of funny color on that there revolver of yours. Looks like all the bluing done-gone worn off of it! Should have been a little gentler in time methinks... 
Actually, that's pretty nice, can't believe I've never taken a closer look at the J-frame S&W. 4" barrel, adjustable sights, pretty well-balanced looking.
Smith44, it will have a recessed cylinder. All .22LR S&Ws since the advent of high velocity .22LR will. Take a look at my M-18; it isn't pinned and it has recessed chambers.
Buy the 17 now, and get a 63 later. That's pretty fair on the 17 IMO; I've seen them for more at gunshows around here, granted, no sales tax in NH, but still.
Actually, that's pretty nice, can't believe I've never taken a closer look at the J-frame S&W. 4" barrel, adjustable sights, pretty well-balanced looking.
Smith44, it will have a recessed cylinder. All .22LR S&Ws since the advent of high velocity .22LR will. Take a look at my M-18; it isn't pinned and it has recessed chambers.
Buy the 17 now, and get a 63 later. That's pretty fair on the 17 IMO; I've seen them for more at gunshows around here, granted, no sales tax in NH, but still.
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