More casting questions

[Black Snowman]

OK, I've bugged you about the source of lead. Now I'd like to get some thoughts on equipment. First of all what would you recommend for books on the subject?


I'm looking at getting the following from MidwayUSA for starters:

Lee Commercial Mold Handles for 6-Cavity Bullet Molds
Various Lee 6-Cavity Tumble Lube Bullet Molds
Lee Pro 4 20 Lb Furnace 110 volt
Frankford Arsenal Drop Out Bullet Mold Release Agent and Lube 6 oz Aerosol
Lee Liquid Alox Bullet Lube 4 oz

I'm starting with the TL molds to save getting a sizer/luber for now.

What am I missing?

 

[R.H. Lee]

It's been a long time since I've cast bullets, but if those Lee molds are aluminum, they won't give you the same consistent results as steel/iron molds. Aluminum heats up and cools down faster. Frosty bullets mean the molds are too hot; wrinkled bullets mean the molds are too cool. What caliber(s) are you casting? I never used any kind of 'release agent' with Saeco molds; if the bullets are stuck when you open the mold, just tap them (on the part of the handle that connects to the mold) with a wood rod, like a piece of broomstick. Use adequate ventilation. Drop the bullets onto a heavy heat resistant cloth to prevent deformation while they're still hot. AFAIK, you must size/lube bullets before loading.

 

[Swamprabbit]

I'm not one of the most experienced casters but I've mainly worked with Lyman products over the years. As for a book, Lyman does have a good manual for bullet casting and I would recommend it.

I haven't used a release agent, I just did what was described above. I recommend a good harwood stick to use in tapping the handles to release the bullets on a folded towel (keeps the hot-soft bullets from deforming).

I would recommend a sizer/lubricator and use a high temp lube to keep the smoke down when shooting.

In addition to using a well ventilated area, you will also want to use a good face shield (like what you would use for working with a metal grinder) and a good quality set of high cuff leather gloves. I use a set of good welder's gloves. In casting, safety is your most important consideration. Working with 10-20 pounds of molten metal can create a lot of potential injuries!!!!

 

[Black Snowman]

Thanks for the info so far. I'll be loading 45 ACP, 45 Colt, and 40 S&W (not for a Glock ). If I it works out for me I'll get a lubrisizer and try my hand with some "light" 454 loadings and will give the 40 cal bullets a chance in 10mm.

I read about the no-sizing tumble lube molds and process in the Lee loading manual, since it's their product / process and all they made it sound pretty slick

I've seen posts form others here and on other boards who have used it who recommend the releasing agent as the multiple small grooves make them stick in the mold worse than conventional large grooves.

 

[HSMITH]

The Lee molds are OK, I have a couple of the 6 cavities and a half dozen of the two cavity models. I prefer the aluminum blocks to iron blocks actually. The tumble lube bullets don't need to be sized before shooting, and the liquid alox works fine. Forget the release spray, you just don't need it and it can cause a lot more problems than it will fix. Smoke the mold with a flame, turn it BLACK with soot and that is all you will ever need.

A thermometer would be a good addition to your list, and personal protection equipment. Go on ebay and get the RCBS casting manual, they sell for $3 and they are worth the price. It is a good primer to get you started.

 

[Black Snowman]

Skip the release, OK. Are candles OK for sooting the mold or are the previously mentioned matches better? Wood matches can get pricey after a while and candles I already have

Thermometer, check.

I have gloves from my welding gear. Other PPE mentioned was a face shield (which I'll get locally from Harbor Freight most likely) and a ventalation system if I do this indoors (I already have something lined up for that too). Is there any other PPE I'm forgetting?

Something I'm sure is in the manuals but is eating at me is how do you control the temp of the mold? How do you get it up to working temp before pouring lead in?

 

[cheygriz]

Over the last 40 years of casting, I've had better luck dropping the bullets from the mould into a bucket of cold water, than dropping on a towel. This also hardens the bullet, so if you're tumble lubing, and not sizing this will result in harder bullets. I've also found a wooden, or rawhide mallet preferable to a stick.

Forget the release agent. Causes more problems that it solves.

and ALWAYS, ALWAYS wear a painter's face mask/respirator, OSHA approved safety glasses, leather gloves and a leather apron when casting!

 

[bfox]

Don"t use a candle to smke the mold use a match or lighter .
Use candle wax to flux the lead though .
To preheat the mold I leave it on top of the pot while it is heating up .
Still have to cast some till mold gets up to temp.
If you get Lee after some use glue the wood handles on it says that on the box
and they surely will get loose .

Goo Luck . Bill

 

[Jim Watson]

Lee says to set the mold on the edge of the pot to warm as the lead melts, then you can dip the corner of their aluminum molds in the molten lead to preheat the blocks. I preheat my Lyman iron mold on the stove. My coach heats hundreds of dollars worth of custom molds right on the eye and has never "warped" a mold yet.

Spray mold release is not much good, I only put it on the top of the sprue plate. The mold gets a little of the NEI release agent, applied with a Q tip. Lee says to smoke the cavity with a butane lighter.

 

[Shweboner]

The most accurate .45acp load I've ever shot came from a round loaded on Lee equipment/molds.

When you are casting, when you put your wax in to flux the lead... it will catch fire for a few seconds, use the flame to smoke your mold. rest the mold on the edge of your pot to heat it up... to tell if it is hot enough, dipthe corner of the mold into the lead if the lead doesnt stick to the mold, its hot enough.

Its pretty darn easy once you get the hang of it.. the first batch or so will probably end up back in the pot for another try though... or maybe I am just picky.

You will be very pleased with yourself once you have it down.
Good Luck

~Brian

 

[Sam]

Irrespective of whose equipment you use, get yourself a copy of the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook. Best investment you can make.
Later on get the NRA cast bullet book.
Casting is easy and the nice thing is that if you mess up a bullet you get to melt your mistakes.
Whenever possible get a multiple cavity mold and get more sets of handles than you think you need. I regularly run 4 molds at a time with no hassle. The bucket of cold water is a good idea, just set it up so you have to turn around to drop the bullets in. That will keep your body between the pot and the water in case you splash. Do not throw any wet rejects in the pot. Very nasty/dangerous. Make sure that all lead going into the pot is DRY. Like inside for a week dry.
Welcome to a more involved level of reloading.

Sam

 

[Black Snowman]

Thanks for all the advice guys. The remodling in the living room is amost done so I can move all that furnature out of what will be my gun/reloading/workshop room. Then I can get to the business of making my purpose-built reloading and casting benches.

 

[Fatelvis]

I agree with Riley, I get better looking bullets and have generally better luck, with iron moulds.